Recent content by phattyduck

Hit that stuck part with a big hammer. Maybe after soaking in some PB Blaster or similar for a while. Engine (4/6), transmission (AT/MT) and trim (base/SR5 vs Limited) all can change the driveshaft length. Make sure specs match your 4Runner. -Charlie

Plenty of people use Tom Woods driveshafts. https://4xshaft.com/collections/toyota-4runner Rock auto has "OEM Style" cheap options (no comment on quality): https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1999,4runner,3.4l+v6,1357455,drivetrain,drive+shaft,2308 I'm sure there are other options too...

The images you attached show the nuts still in place. If those have since been removed, a chisel and hammer used carefully at the mating surface will dislodge it. Hopefully you have a replacement for that broken unit... -Charlie

It'll 'work' with stock pulley and an upgraded fuel pump to keep up with the extra flow/pressure needed. Agreed that a fuel and timing solution should be used long term through... -Charlie

They were designed around M8 studs, which is smaller than 3/8". I would suggest getting an (OEM) terminal set meant for a first gen Avalon. Studs for both positive and negative side, Toyota quality. You'll have to make your own ground wires for the negative side to the fender and block if you...

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/threads/alternate-search-for-t4r-3rd-gen-section.149799/ Does this no longer work? (worst case, you can still do a similar version that catches threads from the whole forum) -Charlie

aircabinman is the only possible 'kit' I would come close to trusting on eBay... but with an Aisin kit available from RockAuto, I'm not sure why you would go any other way. An actual OEM belt will WAYYY outlast the factory 90k mile replacement interval. -Charlie

TPS is reported via OBD-II if you have a scanner that reads live data. It will NOT report a 0-100% value - it will be a reduced range (like 20-80% or something) of the actual reading from the TPS. You would be looking for a 'continuous' signal, not full range. A bad TPS will have dead spots...

I would start with making sure that every lighting circuit has at least one incandescent on it (interior lights, parking, brake, turn both sides). That will get a baseline for you there. I had a weird one years ago where the reverse lights would come on with turn signals (or something like...

Most likely here is that the welded nut inside the arm that has come loose. If that nut is gone, you *may* be able to use a nut-sert - but you won't know if that's possible until you can measure the hole. They require a specific size to work correctly. Also, it will leave a lip around the...

He already did the contacts/plunger on the current starter. I'm guessing something is loose or misaligned with the home rebuild. I'm generally good with mechanical work and still messed it up once (on an older Toyota)... I generally suggest a 'contacts and plunger' rebuild once, then an...

The cable to the trans is for line pressure control. There is no kickdown switch (electrical or mechanical) in the system, unlike many euro vehicles from 'back in the day'. In the 'no-downshift' state, what happens if you slow to a stop? Does it stay in overdrive all the way to stopped? Or...

The contacts may have spun internally (overtightening the external connection, etc.) or some other similar issue. Sticky solenoid due to leftover dirt, etc... Also check the wiring near the battery closely while you are in there. If you can't find anything with an inspection, you can get a...

If the window is able to be rolled down, it may be easier/possible to get in there with a tool. That's why I suggested opening the far side door and comparing. I don't remember the specifics inside the door - but that's where I would start. -Charlie

A few years later and I still have a set of Durobumps on the front, but they are supplemented with set of Perry Parts bumps too - no more OEM bumps on the front. They work great - full compression hits are not jarring. Probably as good as you can get without hydro bumps and/or bypass shocks...