Recent content by phattyduck

aircabinman is the only possible 'kit' I would come close to trusting on eBay... but with an Aisin kit available from RockAuto, I'm not sure why you would go any other way. An actual OEM belt will WAYYY outlast the factory 90k mile replacement interval. -Charlie

TPS is reported via OBD-II if you have a scanner that reads live data. It will NOT report a 0-100% value - it will be a reduced range (like 20-80% or something) of the actual reading from the TPS. You would be looking for a 'continuous' signal, not full range. A bad TPS will have dead spots...

I would start with making sure that every lighting circuit has at least one incandescent on it (interior lights, parking, brake, turn both sides). That will get a baseline for you there. I had a weird one years ago where the reverse lights would come on with turn signals (or something like...

Most likely here is that the welded nut inside the arm that has come loose. If that nut is gone, you *may* be able to use a nut-sert - but you won't know if that's possible until you can measure the hole. They require a specific size to work correctly. Also, it will leave a lip around the...

He already did the contacts/plunger on the current starter. I'm guessing something is loose or misaligned with the home rebuild. I'm generally good with mechanical work and still messed it up once (on an older Toyota)... I generally suggest a 'contacts and plunger' rebuild once, then an...

The cable to the trans is for line pressure control. There is no kickdown switch (electrical or mechanical) in the system, unlike many euro vehicles from 'back in the day'. In the 'no-downshift' state, what happens if you slow to a stop? Does it stay in overdrive all the way to stopped? Or...

The contacts may have spun internally (overtightening the external connection, etc.) or some other similar issue. Sticky solenoid due to leftover dirt, etc... Also check the wiring near the battery closely while you are in there. If you can't find anything with an inspection, you can get a...

If the window is able to be rolled down, it may be easier/possible to get in there with a tool. That's why I suggested opening the far side door and comparing. I don't remember the specifics inside the door - but that's where I would start. -Charlie

A few years later and I still have a set of Durobumps on the front, but they are supplemented with set of Perry Parts bumps too - no more OEM bumps on the front. They work great - full compression hits are not jarring. Probably as good as you can get without hydro bumps and/or bypass shocks...

Do you have power locks? If so, have they stopped working on that door? There is no way to electrically disconnect the manual lock actuator from the lock mechanism. It will be very hard to get in the door panel with a non-working lock (door stuck closed). Practice on the working side to see...

Is there some reason you think that your 4Runner needs a new harness? A few targeted repairs should be all you need, even if there are electrical gremlins. -Charlie

There may be a *slight* difference in sound, but there won't be a difference in performance. The intake snorkel in the fender is the limiting factor for airflow unless you do other mods (deckplate, etc.). You can also go with an Airaid MIT or similar for the intake tube. What is your goal...

There's basically no grease in the steering boot. If something is coming out, it is from the rack. A ripped boot lets in contaminants, but isn't the end of the world unless you are going to go the whole winter in the salt belt with it open. For play in the steering - you'll need a helper and...

I always thought it would be possible - glad to see someone do it! Basically, you make the 4WD ECU think that the transfer case shifting happens instantly. -Charlie

The small boot over the pivot is just a dust cover. As long as it would keep dust/sand from falling down into the pivot, its fine if it spins, etc. Up to you if you want to replace it. -Charlie