Recent content by Rayford

I just installed a set of 4 Michelin Defender LTX M/S 275/70/16. I plan on using them all winter. Huge improvement over some burly, knobby, but slippery Coopers. I went through 2 sets of the Michelins on my Yukon, got about 7-=80k miles for each set. They worked great all year around, never felt...

Soak with kroil or pb-blaster. A lot. You probably have one chance to back out each screw before the head strips. Make the first try count- be patient with the kroil. It helps to gently tap the screws and plate with a small hammer to encourage kroil to penetrate into the threads.

Any suggestions for a tire that does well on snow and ice? My wife is starting to drive my manual 4R so I am looking for something that will be grippy in the winter in Wisconsin. I had Michelin Defender LTX on my Yukon and liked them. Looking for comments on these or other suggestions...

I went through a very similar experience with my 97 SR5. All it takes is ONE wire to short and heat up, and it melts through its neighbors, and the process replicates. The wires are especially susceptible to overheating when they are bundled tightly together and wrapped in tape. I was astounded...

I think the fire extinguisher is being used as a low-budget reservoir for the air horn...clever.

TheDurk- wow that new OEM part is eye-watering. I ordered the used one. I am trying to track down the limit switch (the part that originally fried), the bright blue switch in my photo above. Sportscarfan- thanks for the tip. Now that my window is up, I can see the lock mechanism and other parts...

...and it works! I wired the rear window motor directly to +/- 12V and I could drive the window all the way up. I left the rear window motor disconnected so it can't put itself down again. I think the rear door power relay is fried- the outer blue plastic shell has a melted spot, and I can't...

TheDurk, thanks alot! I have the 2002 wiring diagram and there are some differences. The diagram you sent matches with my 1997. Now to see if the motor works if I hook 12V direct to it.

I am dealing with this same problem right now! Gently pry the rubber boot off from where it is sealed in the body opening. Then pull it back inside out. I found it helpful to go under the headliner and unplug the wiring harnesses. There are 4-5 wires that frayed and melted a little, including...

My rear window is stuck down (1997 SR5). In rainy Wisconsin this makes it not very drivable... I tried the usual trouble shooting tricks with door locks and rear wiper to no avail. When I took the door apart I found burned wires going to the window limit switch. On further inspection, those...

It is probably not due to the cold weather. In Northern states, cars are expected to run all winter long, year in and year out. Even cars that are not 4Runners. Replacing the battery is never a bad idea if it is 5+ years old and you are in doubt about it. Check the major wire connections...

I would look for a bigger rig that was designed to pull that kind of weight. Yes, a 4Runner will pull it, and a V8 is better than a 6. But either way your T4R will not be happy- everything will wear out a lot sooner. You will also have to be a lot more conscious of your speed and terrain. For...

Hold something cold (like a plate of flat metal or glass) in the smoke stream so the smoke condenses on the plate. Might have to repeat a couple of times, but you should be able to distinguish between oil or antifreeze then.

Wow, cars in Wisconsin don't usually look that nice sitting new on the dealer's lot! The clutch on my 1997 SR5 is "unobtrusive". It doesn't like to go into 1st gear at anything over about 2 mph. It is slightly stiffer than the clutch on my first car, a 1963 VW beetle.

Very similar question as OP. I need to replace rear shocks, coils, and the lateral control arm on my 1997 SR5. I am going with the tall 1999 coils, Bilstein 4600 shocks. I want it pretty close to stock, but I usually carry tools and gear in the back so looking for a little more support. I would...