Rear window stuck down

[Rayford]

My rear window is stuck down (1997 SR5). In rainy Wisconsin this makes it not very drivable... I tried the usual trouble shooting tricks with door locks and rear wiper to no avail. When I took the door apart I found burned wires going to the window limit switch. On further inspection, those wires fried all of their neighbors in the harness going to the rear door ECU. So I spliced and replaced sections of about 18 wires. Still no window movement.

I have 3 questions:
1) How to connect power directly to the rear window motor? There is a red and a green wire, labeled CLSM and OPNM, respectively, on the circuit diagram. I tried a positive signal into the red wire, assuming the motor is grounded. No luck. Do I need to put a negative source onto the green wire?
2) Is there a way to raise the window without using the motor?
3) How to get the window motor out? Do I have to take the entire bracket out?

Thanks for any hints.

 

[TheDurk]

From the EWD:

1. REAR POWER WINDOW MANUAL OPERATION (BACK WINDOW CONTROL SW)
WHEN THE BACK WINDOW CONTROL SW IS PUSHED TO THE UP SIDE (WITH THE IGNITION SW ON), AN “ON” SIGNAL IS INPUT FROM TERMINAL 6 OF THE WINDOW SW TO TERMINAL 11 OF THE POWER WINDOW RELAY.
THUS, THE POWER WINDOW RELAY IS ACTIVATED AND THE CURRENT TO TERMINAL 12 OF THE POWER WINDOW RELAY FLOWS TO TERMINAL 14 OF THE POWER WINDOW RELAY → GROUND SO THAT THE CURRENT TO BACK
WINDOW MOTOR FLOWS FROM TERMINAL 12 OF THE POWER WINDOW RELAY TO TERMINAL 5 → TERMINAL 1 OF THE BACK WINDOW MOTOR → TERMINAL 2 → TERMINAL 15 OF THE POWER WINDOW RELAY → TERMINAL 14 →GROUND. THIS CAUSES THE BACK WINDOW MOTOR TO ROTATE TOWARD THE UP SIDE AND THE WINDOW ASCENDS ONLY WHILE THE BACK WINDOW CONTROL SW IS BEING PUSHED.

Yes, you neeed 12V+ on the red and -Ground on the green.

I can't help with the rest.

 

[Rayford]

TheDurk, thanks alot! I have the 2002 wiring diagram and there are some differences. The diagram you sent matches with my 1997. Now to see if the motor works if I hook 12V direct to it.

 

[Rayford]

...and it works! I wired the rear window motor directly to +/- 12V and I could drive the window all the way up. I left the rear window motor disconnected so it can't put itself down again. I think the rear door power relay is fried- the outer blue plastic shell has a melted spot, and I can't remove the wire harness from it. Does anyone know where I can get a new relay? Or possibly just buy a new (hopefully green) door?

 

[TheDurk]

...and it works! I wired the rear window motor directly to +/- 12V and I could drive the window all the way up. I left the rear window motor disconnected so it can't put itself down again. I think the rear door power relay is fried- the outer blue plastic shell has a melted spot, and I can't remove the wire harness from it. Does anyone know where I can get a new relay? Or possibly just buy a new (hopefully green) door?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-4Runner-Rear-Tailgate-Window-Control-Relay-85930-35040-96-97-98-99-/302544624051

Don't even think about new....

https://parts.conicellitoyotaofconshohocken.com/oem-parts/toyota-relay-assy-power-wi-8593035040

 

[TheDurk]

TheDurk, thanks alot! I have the 2002 wiring diagram and there are some differences. The diagram you sent matches with my 1997. Now to see if the motor works if I hook 12V direct to it.

There are a LOT of differences, as the '99+ used the multiplex single wire to communicate with the front for most functions.

 

[sportscarfan]

This happened on my '97 some years ago - you can search here, I posted about it more than once in response to others with the same issue.
Cliff notes - On mine, same situation...window rolled down by itself in the wet. Would not roll up...I had to run wires directly from the battery to get the window back up (and we were camping at the time, so fixing this was extra McGyver).
Once home, I tracked the issue down to the short piece of harness that runs between the hatch keylock itself and the rest of the hatch harness. Nothing in my rig was fried though.
Removing this short section resolved the issue with the window rolling down by itself. I never bothered replacing it. The issue is probably in the little rotary contact portion that interfaces with the backside keylock. Without this short section in place, the window still operates as you'd expect, but I have to use the switch up front. I don't miss the key-activated feature.

 

[Rayford]

TheDurk- wow that new OEM part is eye-watering. I ordered the used one. I am trying to track down the limit switch (the part that originally fried), the bright blue switch in my photo above.

Sportscarfan- thanks for the tip. Now that my window is up, I can see the lock mechanism and other parts on the back wall. The only time my back window switch gets used is when someone tries to unlock the back door.

 

[TheDurk]

TheDurk- wow that new OEM part is eye-watering. I ordered the used one. I am trying to track down the limit switch (the part that originally fried), the bright blue switch in my photo above.

Sportscarfan- thanks for the tip. Now that my window is up, I can see the lock mechanism and other parts on the back wall. The only time my back window switch gets used is when someone tries to unlock the back door.

https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~switch~assy~limit~84290-35020.html?Make=Toyota&Model=4Runner&Year=1997&Submodel=&Filter=()