Recent content by rexassian

I used these on the last rebuild, going strong so far: Trail-Safe Seal, Rear Axle Toyota (Pair) I also had nics in my axle shaft from when the PO cut off the retaining rings so I added sealant to the axle as well as to the inside of the seal to axle housing mating surface to make sure nothing...

Also check the TPS - throttle position sensor. FSM has the procedure and expected resistance values. I'll add that it's way easier to remove the whole throttle body along with the TPS as those little philips screws are easy to strip trying to take it off from the backside.

Fair point, and I definitely checked, all appeared straight. I'm sure Firestone did re-center the wheel after the initial alignment. My suspicion is that they didn't torque these bolts down correctly and the shaft slipped on the splines. It drives completely straight otherwise but I suppose I...

OK, good, I'm just as confused as you are about why these are knurled :biggrin1: it makes no sense to me. I went back and re-watched the mtbtim video on steering rack replacement and there was no mention of the knurls either... So anyone that has replaced the steering rack or re-centered their...

Are the pictures not showing up? It's bolt A and B as shown in the FSM diagram in my second post. They are the bolts that tighten the clamp around the intermediate steering shaft and the steering rack itself.

There's no nut on these, it just connects into the split threaded collar. I'm changing them because the threads were all buggered up after removing these to re-center the wheel. I suspect Firestone either over-torqued these or tried to remove the coupler to re-center the wheel without removing...

found the relevant page in the FSM, SR-20 (page 1378) and it looks like there is nothing special mentioned about the knurls.

I was trying to re-center my steering wheel after some hard wheeling and had the hardest time removing the bolts that hold the steering coupler on to the shaft and steering rack. For some reason, Toyota doesn't list these bolts at the rag joint but I found that the upper shaft bolts are the...

All good advice here, your requirements are very minimal. A couple of suggestions, Crutchfield.com has really good research and reviews, go there and spend some time checking out what units work for you. The deals are usually pretty good but sometime Amazon has better prices. However, the free...

Hold the bearing cup and rotate the lug studs/axle shaft.

Have you tried rotating the axle flange so that the splines align into the carrier? The gap on your passenger side is fine and should go away once you tighten the nuts.

I daily drove mine for a while before quarantine without problems. Go for it and upgrade as needed when/if things wear. But I have not seen anything abnormal on mine.

What material is the SPC insert? I thought it looked stainless or something like that? Is anyone pre-heating the spindles before welding since they are cast iron?

lifetime = just past the drivetrain warranty period.

Forgot to add that I went ahead and got the ECGS bushing upgrade and replaced all the seals of course. I didn't like the tool supplied that is shown in the videos to remove the needle bearing and instead used a slide hammer to remove the old bearing. It was stupid simple and no need to shove a...