Recent content by Rhoov1

Original factory housing, new LED bulb so light cutoff will stay the same. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

At this point I'm seriously thinking that something is wrong with the lights themselves. Even though they work individually when put together something is wrong internally in the ballast causing the problem. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Everything works fine with 1 LED (either one) and 1 Halogen (either side) but when I add in the second LED everything freaks out. I loose my high beam indicator on the dash and the dash lights will intermittently turn on and off. What has everyone else running LED headlights had success with...

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Whatever came in the box. They are EOS CAN BUS safe LED. They have a pigtail off the back with a ballast attached. I used the same set up in my bosses 05 Acura RL and 02 Lexus RX300 and they worked perfect. Plug and play. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Today I received a set of 9003/H4 LED headlight bulbs. Installed the bulbs and immediately noticed that the high beam dash indicator was not working as well as all of the dash lights were flickering on and off at random. These were installed in a 97 Runner with V6. All stock. Swapped the...

Check the drivers kick panel, wire harness heading to the rear, red with yellow stripe. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's aftermarket alarm wiring in the video. Strip it all out. The alarm is not connected so it is just a big ball of crap and useless. The second pic has RCA cables and remote turn on running against the tranny hump running back for an amplifier. Not sure of the orange wire.

Bill, You are correct on the fact that the automobile is the worst possible stage for a good system, with carpet, plastic, glass and metal surfaces that can really mess with sound. But there is a huge difference between amps and speakers in the way of quality and sound. Just listening to 4...

Check out Phoenix Gold! Great line great pricing and great warranty. I currently run the PG Ti 5 channel that provides over 150 watts RMS to each of my door speakers and over 900 watts RMS to my subs. A little pricy for the average consumer at $899.99 but well worth it! My wife runs their SX 5...

With the seat in.

Removing "factory" wiring is practically impossible as the factory harness is loomed and taped and tied and bundled with everything else in the car.

You will need the speaker wires because they lead directly to each speaker in the doors which you will need for the JL to produce sound. It makes no sense to rewire the whole truck when the factory speaker wires are fine for 99% of the installs out there. And in over 20 years of professional...

Keep in mind mine is in a 3rd gen so you might not have the same room under seat.

To add on to what A/V1 stated, the speaker wires provided off the bypass harness will now go directly to the speakers in the truck and bypass the JBL amp so you can either use the headunits speaker output and use its internal amp or you can extent the speaker wires from the harness to where ever...