Recent content by scarpozzi

I started a thread on my door locks. I'm having similar issues in my 2011 SR5 (74k miles). Door Locks and dome light stop working after the ignition is powered off...the rear hatch door also fails to open (as it's powered by the same circuit). This started happening back in August/September...

Ok....new symptom. I was outside and noticed the open door light was on. I went around and opened/closed all the doors (minus the lift gate because it won't open due to the door lock power issue)...but I verified all doors were closed prior to opening and closing them. I put the key in the...

I flipped all the door locks manually and tried resetting the power again. Fuses look good. I've looked at diagrams, but don't know if there's a relay involved here that's got a bad power leg. Most of what I've seen makes it appear the wires go to the ECU and back out again. I can't seem to...

I'll flip them manually when I get a chance to. I just parked and my doors locked fine with the key fob. I think it's interesting that power seems to be unavailable to the door locks 10 seconds or so after turning the car off...it seems to be less if the air conditioner fan is on... (maybe...

The actuators all work though. The problem is that they all appear to lose power within 10+ seconds of the key being turned to the off position. Prior to that, the key fob and buttons all work. Once I lose the ability to lock the door with the key fob, the all lock/unlock buttons also no...

Thank you for the diagram. I'll check it out when I get home in another hour or so. I'm hoping I have some time to check this out...it really seems like it's a fuse the way it's acting... I certainly hope it's not something more complicated like a faulty switch. Intermittent stuff is so time...

I ran home on my lunch break and went through the "Door" fuses again and reseated them all. I also went through the ones in the middle row and checked the ECU-IG No1 and ECU-IG No2 (which I assume is the same as ECU-B). Both of those fuses looked fine and were reseated....the issue remains.

I'm looking for fuse ECU-B... This is what my fuse panel looks like: IMG_20190829_102648405.jpg - Google Drive On the top left, I checked/reseated the 30A - 25A fuses on the top left and the two that are labelled DOOR RL and DOOR in the middle (25A/7.5A). I'm at work and don't have a fuse...

I would say that too, but it's a new battery. I just replaced it 5 months ago from the solid Panasonic that came with it. (got 7 years out of that battery!) I actually tried to lock my doors as soon as I powered the engine off coming into work this morning and the buttons were dead. I put...

I'm still having the issue....nothing changed. Does someone have a wiring diagram with the associated fuses? I'm really thinking there are 2 different circuits here providing the door locks power. One for when the key is on in the ignition and another when the ignition switch is in the off...

No fridge, everything's stock...no additional electronics. The problem just started last weekend. I'm the original owner of the 4Runner, which I bought in December of 2011...so it's almost gone 8 years without having this problem. I'm hoping someone else has had a similar problem and found a...

I was talking about the big guy in the sky.

I have a 2011 4Runner that just started having a problem with the automatic door locks AND wireless key fob. It doesn't appear to be an issue with the actuators or the remote itself because I changed the battery in it when the problem first started last week. Here is the observed behavior...

1. If the moisture is on the outside of the glass, the vents are likely blowing cold air. Condensation sticks to cold things when humidity is high and temperature is in the 50-65 degree range. 2. If the moisture is on the inside, the humidity in the vehicle is too high and cracking a window...

I've never had a plug crack in 25 years of working on my cars. I blame poor manufacturing... =P