Recent content by SDsurfx

Well she’s back on the road. Got to a point where I was running into problems I hadn’t anticipated (broken timing chain guide), and was using my vacation wrenching when I’d rather be surfing. Had a shop finish it off: 1. Cylinder head rebuilt (#3 intake valves were in fact BAD) 2. New timing...

Yep, using the FSM. Never even checked the valves, just getting the head rebuilt. The intake manifold was so full of oily soot I have no idea how it was even running.

Removing the cylinder head to get reworked. Can’t get the timing chain tensioner off! Nuts came off fine, used a screw driver to crack the gasket, and it doesn’t want to budge, like it binding on the studs. Pounded back in with mallet, still only wants to home half way off. Any ideas?

Gonna start ordering parts for this job, anticipating having to send the head off to a machine shop. I’m not sure if a simple valve adjustment will fix the problem as the intake valves on #3 are leaking (must be the valve and/or valve seats worn). Anything I’m missing here? Toyota...

Got a ton of time off starting next week. I already have the valve feeler gauges. Gonna give the valve adjustment a try. Just sucks that I’ll have to crack it open twice to complete the job, but good point guys. I can measure one day, order all the parts and finish fit a few days later when I...

Final reply, mostly in case someone has this problem in the future. Leak down test indicates cylinder #3 intake valves are leaking. It needs to have the cylinder head removed and sent into a machine shop for a valve job. The shop actually recommended NOT doing this, as something will likely...

Took it in for the valve adjustment. They ran a compression test first just to see what’s going on: 1- 180 psi 2- 180 psi 3- 80 psi 4- 180 psi Doing a leak down test tomorrow to see if it’s valves or piston rings.

Got a quote for a valve adjustment and new valve cover gasket for $400, I think I’m gonna do it this week.

Unfortunately I don’t have leads for my multimeter long enough to test the plug wires. That boot is about 6” deep. They’re only 6 months old, so I think I can rule them out. Going to check the resistance on the ignition coils tomorrow. I might have a shop do the valve adjustment for me.

So a quick trip out in town revealed the PROBLEM IS NOT SOLVED. In less than 5 miles if driving got a flashing CEL, followed be steady CEL and P0303 codes again. Still rough idle and all that. Gonna grab a multi-meter and test the plug wires.

So got me some GB reman injectors from Rock Auto. Good news, they’re IDENTICAL to the ones I pulled out. Man they look rough @ 303,000 miles. Ironically the worst looking ones are in cylinders that are running fine. New question: new injector on L, old on R. Is there something left in the head...

Who knows if the valves have ever been checked. All the carfax maintenance stuff was tires, alignments, oil, maybe a clutch. I watched Timmy’s video of the valve adjustment and I think I can tackle that. May as well do a compression test, too. I feel like I can smell fuel in the exhaust, though.

So the same CEL, P0300, P0303 codes came back today. It did not follow the plug, so I’m going to check the plug wire, and I f that’s good I guess it’s gotta be the fuel injector. If it sooty would that indicate an injector that’s leaking or maybe stuck open?

Only 130 hp?! That’s less than a 3RZ, though that diesel makes 80 more ft-lbs of torque.

Howdy y’all, Got a 99 4Runner, 2WD, 3RZ, 5-speed with 303,000 on the odometer. I’m getting P0300 and P0303 codes about once a week. Spark plugs are NGK BKR5EIX with about 3500 miles on them with NGK wires (same mileage). I pulled the #3 spark plug and compared it to the #2 plug in the pics...