Recent content by sknightjr1

New t-case with actuator The t-case plus actuator (low mileage unit) runs $800.

Impossible to install I just got off the phone with the outfit that sold me the unit and they admitted that once the motor is removed without splitting the t-case, its ruined and impossible to install. Cool thing is they are reimbursing me the shipping to return it and have a complete t-case...

Can you send me the illustration picture, never came through. I wish it was as easy as the front diff change. I'm not sure its possible without the rods...thanks

I posted recently about drowning my son's 4Runner and shorting out the actuator assembly. I bought a new (used) actuator motor and the part did not come with the rods installed in it. This seems wrong to me, I was totally planning to remove t-case and install the new actuator. Is there a way...

DEEEEEEP! the water didnt come inside cab or prevent me from opening door but none the less, deep.

Well now that I looked at the actuator closely, water either came in through the plug or the breather hole. My bet is breather tube, I remember seeing water in there, a lot of water.

Honestly when I was removing the screws to open it up, several of the screws were very rusty. I have examined the actuator case and found no apparent cracks. The only thing I can think of is the inspection hole, the water that came out of the case was blueish in color and inside the inspection...

Thanks!

Popped the actuator case open slightly and it was full of water...FULL. Anyone know where I can pick one of these up or can i clean it out and get it working? I need to locate diagrams for the shift assembly it they exist. Any suggestions?

After reviewing the codes I found this article. http://4runnerclub.com/i/4r_files/fsm/ToyManuals-2007-4Runner/toyfsrm/trans/auto%20trans%20system%20for%202uz-fe/A750F%202UZ-FE%20P2772.pdf anyone know which switch this might be? or better yet, where it might be located. Going to run this test...

You're probably right but honestly the green light is not the issue here. I'm working mostly from memory but I seem to remember the green light on when I'm just driving around.

I just ran the code reader again since the ENGINE light came back on, didnt put 2 and 2 together. P2772 and P2772 p/d. I reset my machine but those codes look like they came from my Infiniti. They look too familiar and are not showing anything remotely close to the problem. I need to get out...

Sorry I should clarify a few things, first I had the drivers side door open when I took that picture so the door ajar was on. Maint light needs to be reset from last oil change (hate that one). Seat belt was on because I was parked in the driveway. Low tire pressure because one of the tire...

I'm still having the same issue. I'm wondering if water could have gotten in the t-case. Have not checked that but it is possible. The light that is troubling me is the diff lock is blinking. Maybe the issue I'm having is with the differential locker. I included a picture of the dash...

I sprayed contact cleaner on both connectors. I will try blowing out the water if there is any left. I tried the rubber mallet. Do I need to reset ECU after I clean contacts?