Recent content by superg3

It must be only held on by one screw because I can lift the bracket off easily. With the bracket removed the screw is broken flush with the compressor housing. So yeah, I'll have to use an angled drill then EZ out or drill a new hole. I'm hesitant to drill a new hole in case the housing isn't...

Thanks all for checking so quickly, I just went back to check and it's hell of a clean flush break. I can slightly feel where the screw head broke off and a perfectly round rust halo. Now just gotta figure out if I can drill or use an EZ out in this space.

My A/C light blinks and doesn't work. I looked up the symptom and lots of posts point to a relay under the hood. I've checked it out and swapped the Fog light relay and A/C relay and both seam to function fine. I haven't used the a/c since my timing belt change in Dec. I suspect it might have...

Mine started to squeak and freeze on cold days. Bought a replacement motor from rockauto and haven't had a problem since. Mine is a 2004, a gasket might help it last longer but now it's probably too late.

looking into this further, seams some people recommend the light racing UCA, I have a daystar lift. Anybody know where the cheapest pleace to look for these is? Used the search function and seams someone listed them for $375 but didn't state where. Lowest I could find was $410

OK I believe it's the upper driver ball joint. Now do I just replace the whole upper control arm? And if one side is gone, is the other side not far behind and should be replaced too?

I don't have any hard steering symptoms as the links below describe nor do they say it produces a loud and continuous creaking sound when turning.

Recently I've developed loud creaking when turning the steering wheel. It doesn't matter if I turn it a lot or a little. It's a consistent creak from center to full wheel lock. Any thoughts?

I bought my 4runner used and had the same problem. I could hear something ever so quietly try to actuate and I was just persistent and toggled between 4hi and 4lo for around 20-30min until it engaged. Now I cycle it every few months and haven't had a problem since.

Probably asked before but replacing the xreas shocks with aftermarket ones makes no difference whether or not you have RAS right?

samething here, sold the old 17's, put in limited 18's with sensors and no lights for 3 months. Then I decided to add air to one of the tires and sure enough the light decided to come on. Maybe the sensors need to detect change in psi before sending a signal to the computer.

Mine does the same thing with the A/C on. It's very annoying that a V8 needs to raise RPM a few seconds after a complete stop for A/C. Not only that but it cycles with a raise then back to normal and raises it again if you're sitting longer. Every other car I've owned from 4cyl to other v8's...

i'll add my 2 cents for v8's. Check for noisy wheel bearings (hum while driving), a thud from the driveline from a hard stop and taking off again, slight feel of awd binding during slow tight turn.

for the fronts stick with 1.25", I have 1.5" all the way around and even with stock tires and a daystar 2.5/1.5, I rub the front inner lining when turning full lock backing off the driveway

I have the same thing on my passenger side rear. Sometimes it's there, most times it isn't. Smells like burning rubber. I feel a bit of heat coming from near the rear shocks but can't pin point it.