Recent content by TimGFL

I was able to get it running on starting spray at 1500rpm for 2-3 minutes, but now I've got bigger problems. Looks like I'm getting coolant from behind the timing cover. Guess it's time to do the timing belt, pulleys & water pump job and/or head gasket. With 280K+ miles (100K that I put on it)...

So, continuing down this long, winding journey... I cleaned up the grounds as gamefreak advised. And here's a strange (to me) condition that is new. If I disconnect the fuel pump from under the back seat, and I give a 2-3 second squirt of starting fluid behind the air filter, and give it enough...

I will check that as well. I do get +B power at the diagnostic port with the key "on"

I hadn't thought to check, so I just did now that you mentioned it, and... I do have power at the +B terminal of the diagnostic port, when I turn the key to "on" as Bad Luck mentioned.

I did purchase a reman ECU, because the original one in there did have a leaking capacitor that buggered up several traces. I also took your advice and cleaned up the grounds, and I am able to get it started up momentarily with a blast of starting fluid now. PROGRESS! LOL **Edit: I should...

Now I'm incredibly confused. I've got a rebuilt ECU from a reputable vendor, OEM IAC valve and OEM TPS. I've replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, crank and cam sensors (both Denso), ECU coolant temp sensor, and the cams and crank all line up to TDC. It won't fire up, even with starting fluid...

Just figured I'd update this post. Turns out my 4Runner has been doing "okay" for the last year or so, just with weird timing/idle issues until it warmed up to operating temperature. Then about a week ago, it started up, idled weirder than normal and I tried to give it a little gas and instead...

Hello! Possibly a dumb question, but is the IAC valve supposed to buzz when you turn the key ignition to "on" with engine off? I've been struggling with an IAC code and weird timing/idle issues (until it warms up to operating temperature) for about 2 years, and my poor 1996 4Runner 3.4 5VZ-FE...

Hi ssspacely, it did not. Sorry for the long delay in responding, for some reason I didn't get an email notification about your comment. I'll post some more below about my journey with this problem. My 4runner finally stopped running altogether. :brick:

My best guess is the IAC valve. I swapped out the crank sensor with new Denso, and it did improve but only slightly (sorry I forgot to update LOL!). I then put in an aftermarket IAC valve from the local parts store, and now it runs fine once it gets up to operating temperature. It still has the...

Getting warmer... ? Well, after quite a bit more digging, I am pretty sure it's not the IAC valve, or even the fuel/air mix at all. I hooked up the Torque app and noticed that my timing was going way off when I'm getting the stumbling. When running right, it was about 5-10 degrees positive (I...

Excellent! Thank you for the quick response! That's what I was thinking, based on my searching and specs on other 2-prong types, but I couldn't find info specific to this engine. I've got a Denso model 116-1109 on order, should be in Friday. Fingers crossed. :)

1996 4Runner SR5 2WD 3.4L 5VZ-FE V6 A340E, 280K miles... I've got a weird timing issue, with a P0505 code. I've checked the IAC valve per the procedures (resistance in spec, cleaned it all out, operates open and close with 12V). Air assist checks out per the procedures (drops to just under...

Still struggling... Well, after a bit of a snafu with the fuel pump, it's not the fuel pump. Ended up installing it, only to discover there was a bad connection in the pump wiring harness but fixed now. So I've had the pleasure of pulling the tank out twice in the last week, without a lift...

That might be next. I got a scanner and hooked it up, and there doesn't appear to be any problem with the coolant temperature sensor. I'm heading to the salvage yard tomorrow to pick up a gas tank and pump assembly. When I bought this truck 4 years ago, I discovered a HUGE amount of rust in the...