Recent content by Wazukie

Ya, I figured it might be something like that, but nothing references the number/letter combo. The other interesting thing about this thing is that the door tag states that it came stock with 225/75/15 tires, yet the diff code says 4:88 gear ratio. Couldn't imagine this thing with little tires...

Ok, I've already searched T4R and Google with no answer. I have a 1993 with the designation VN39 SR5. I know what the SR5 is but can anyone tell me what the VN39 stands for? It is also the 4-7 #'s of the vin. Thanks

Without the 1" lift, I couldn't clear the fire wall at all. Pretty cheap to do.

Were the headers on before the rebuild or are they an addition? I had to lift the body on my 93 to clear my Doug Thorly's

Transmission solenoids? Not allowing the torque converter to hook-up right away, mine does it.

I have to ask because I have had personal face-to-face experience with these guys. Have you read the warranty in full, and followed the instructions for a warranty issue? #4 in the warranty states: YOUR DUTIES:You must give us written notice, at our address (20740 S.E. Firewood RD., Sandy OR...

Did you return the motor to them as required and stated in their warranty? What exactly did you purchase from them? I purchased a 3.0 long block a year ago and I've had no problem with it. Just wondering.

purchased a 3.0 LB from the this last winter. Runs great and so far no issues. Maybe 4k miles on it at this point. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/classic-t4rs/206995-93-3-slo-rebuild-2.html

Boy, I'd say you have a bad valve cover. When I rebuilt my 3vze, I used Felpro gaskets and a little bit of blue rtv in the corners and have never had a leak.

If I were to do it all over again, I'd go with a fuel injected 5.0 Thorly headers are nice but I've got about $900 just in the exhaust system with those stupid things, lol

I now that with my 93 3.slo(Just put a new motor in) the factory system doesn't read the true pressure. I had the same concern, since I was putting new engine in, so I put an external, Manuel, old school, gauge in and everything looks good. I use the factory setup to gauge "normal" for my rig.

Put a real pressure gauge in and verify what it really is. Your pressure will always drop as the oil warms up. viscosity always goes down as heat increases. The stock gauge in the 4runner sucks.

So, do you drive it for a little bit, like warm it up then it happens, or does it not matter if cold or warm? The reason I ask is because on my 4r, the ignitor was over heating and causing pretty much the same kinda thing. It would actually die, then I'd have to start it back up. It took a...

Best way to bust that loose is with an impact gun. The torque on that bolt is like 180 -240 ft lbs, so it's going to be a bugger.

You won't be disappointed with that choice. good motor.