Recent content by yinger

Got it running again (fuel pump croaked in the middle of all this) and got the head pulled and confirmed it was a bad exhaust valve. With all the valves closed I sprayed a touch of carb cleaner in the exhaust ports and it came pouring out of that valve. Also got deep enough to find out that...

Got it running again! Put a new fuel pump in it and the psi went right to 44 (top of spec per the FSM). Still didn't want to start until I got the body grounded to the block. Used a jumper cable to do it and as soon as I took it off it stalled out immediately, so I just need to fix that...

Yeesh. I may just do the same. What setup did you use?

Only took a week but finally got around to testing the fuel pressure and it's looking like a new pump might be in my future. Here's what I got at the cold start injector and the inlet to the fuel filter. So unless there's something else I need to check first I'm getting a new fuel pump....

That sounds like a blast. If the pump and rails check out for fuel pressure I'll look at it when I take everything off to pull the head to fix the bad exhaust valve. Thanks again

Thanks again for all the feedback. It helps a lot. Put a new clamp on the negative terminal (the positive one is in real good shape so left it alone) and it didn't seem to help. I pulled off one of the injector plugs (from cylinder 1) and both wires are getting ~12.2 v (that's after some...

Post to post and clamp to clamp and "+" clamp to block all read 12.5v. The negative terminal does need to be replaced but it was on there pretty good. I've got a new clamp so I might just throw it on, can't hurt.

Peeled back the protective sleeve on that wire from the igniter all the way to just under the EFI and there's no obvious damage. It looks to be in pretty good shape. For the heck of it I thought I'd get out the multimeter and see what kind of voltage I got with those three wires. Honestly not...

Yep, that's it. I'm wondering if I damaged them when I moved them, as they are 30 years old and like you said, exposed to all sorts of heat. Looks like the previous owner tried to insulate them a bit better. I might try what you did with the trailer wire and see what happens. Sounds like an easy...

My issue *does* seem suspiciously like this thread: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/classic-t4rs/161365-22re-starting-running-problem-please-help.html

Something else to note that I didn't notice before and I think it might have been from messing with the injector on the first cylinder is that I can mess with it a bit and turn it and gas will forcefully leak (spray) out of where it looks to meet up with the fuel rail. Also if it sits for any...

Is this the one you're talking about? That's the only wire I messed with when I removed the valve cover cause it was in the way. I jiggled it while turning the key without any effect. (please ignore the large frog)

I'll have to borrow a fuel pressure tester from Autozone, but I'll find out. The previous owner said he had the injectors cleaned but who knows if that's true or not.

Someone beat me to that engine by a few hours :( Anyway, I started a new thread for the starting issues: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/classic-t4rs/265665-22re-no-longer-starting.html#post3185901. Thanks for the help everyone.

'88 T4r 22RE manual transmission... Simply put, it will no longer start. When I got it it would at least start after extensive cranking but now it no longer will after Background - bought it several months ago as a not really running project. Once I got around to looking into the engine...