22RE no longer starting

yinger

yinger

New member
'88 T4r 22RE manual transmission...

Simply put, it will no longer start. When I got it it would at least start after extensive cranking but now it no longer will after

Background - bought it several months ago as a not really running project. Once I got around to looking into the engine issues. It did have a bad alternator which I replaced, and it would at least start. When it did start, it took a solid 30 seconds to 1 minute of cranking to actually start and once it did it ran like crap. I found that the 2nd cylinder had no compression. After troubleshooting it (Another thread: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/classic-t4rs/264637-22re-2nd-cylinder-not-firing.html#post3167192 ) I found that it likely has a bad exhaust valve. The only actual work I did was pulled off the valve cover (and any vacuum lines and wires that ran over it) to look at the cam and whatnot to see if there was anything obvious as to why the 2nd cylinder didn't have compression. Put everything back together ( I took pictures of the vacuum lines before and 95% sure I put them back in the right spots) and now it won't start at all. Other than turning the engine by hand so I could do a leak down on it ensuring that none of the valves were open, I made no changes to the engine.

Troubleshooting - here's what I've got so far:
  • The engine "runs" for a couple seconds if I hit it with some starter fluid
  • All of the plug wires are getting spark when turning it over
  • Checked all of the fuses that I am aware of and none of them appear bad.
  • Fuel pump runs and puts out fuel if I jump off the pins for it in the diagnostic port.
  • Fuel seems to be making it all the way to the fuel rail.
  • Inside of the fuel tank is rust free and gas is mostly fresh ethanol free fuel.
  • Trouble codes 6 and 11 appear if I jump off the diagnostic port pins

To me it seems like a fuel issue but not really sure.

One thing that I did find that concerns me is I don't think that the original ECM is present. The part number on the one that is there is "89661-35060" which cross references to an '86 2wd pickup (the correct part is "89661-35110") I don't know how much that might come into play but feel it's worth noting. If anything I'm not sure if the trouble codes that I'm pulling are even valid considering the mismatched part.

I could use some suggestions as to what to try next, or even if I should just wait to deal with the non-starting issues once I get the head issues resolved. Only reason I'm trying to get it to start is to move it somewhere more convenient to work on it.

Thanks!
 
Register to hide this ad
Ahlem said:
Clogged fuel filter and injectors.
What's your fuel pressure reading?
Click to expand...

I'll have to borrow a fuel pressure tester from Autozone, but I'll find out.

The previous owner said he had the injectors cleaned but who knows if that's true or not.
 
have someone wiggle the wires coming from the igniter.
or, you could strip the outer heat shield off and inspect them. there are 3 wires, they go from the igniter, across the exhaust and eventually down into the ECU. this is where the ecu gets the signal to fire the injectors. they are somewhat prone to being damaged due to their location above the manifold.

I repaired mine with a 4flat trailer wire extension. I peeled the 4th wire off. using the remaining 3, made it long enough to route up the drivers fender, and across the firewall. far away from the exhaust manifold.
 
nevada said:
have someone wiggle the wires coming from the igniter.
or, you could strip the outer heat shield off and inspect them. there are 3 wires, they go from the igniter, across the exhaust and eventually down into the ECU. this is where the ecu gets the signal to fire the injectors. they are somewhat prone to being damaged due to their location above the manifold.

I repaired mine with a 4flat trailer wire extension. I peeled the 4th wire off. using the remaining 3, made it long enough to route up the drivers fender, and across the firewall. far away from the exhaust manifold.
Click to expand...

Is this the one you're talking about? That's the only wire I messed with when I removed the valve cover cause it was in the way. I jiggled it while turning the key without any effect.

(please ignore the large frog)

DJ1ysMw.jpg


nUFvF1K.jpg
 
Last edited:
Something else to note that I didn't notice before and I think it might have been from messing with the injector on the first cylinder is that I can mess with it a bit and turn it and gas will forcefully leak (spray) out of where it looks to meet up with the fuel rail. Also if it sits for any amount of time it'll try to start right away as if I sprayed starter spray into the throttle body but then quickly just go to cranking as if there's fuel slowly getting into the cylinders.

Probably should smell my oil and see if there's any fuel in it. Edit: it smells fine.
 
Last edited:
yes, I believe that is it. it goes straight across the VC and goes under the intake, yeah? 3 wires total?

based on what that guy said in the other thread, it sounds like the same wires.
 
nevada said:
yes, I believe that is it. it goes straight across the VC and goes under the intake, yeah? 3 wires total?

based on what that guy said in the other thread, it sounds like the same wires.
Click to expand...

Yep, that's it. I'm wondering if I damaged them when I moved them, as they are 30 years old and like you said, exposed to all sorts of heat. Looks like the previous owner tried to insulate them a bit better. I might try what you did with the trailer wire and see what happens. Sounds like an easy enough test at the very least.
 
yinger said:
Yep, that's it. I'm wondering if I damaged them when I moved them, as they are 30 years old and like you said, exposed to all sorts of heat. Looks like the previous owner tried to insulate them a bit better. I might try what you did with the trailer wire and see what happens. Sounds like an easy enough test at the very least.
Click to expand...

in my case, they had been damaged for a while. in fact the wires were separated by nearly 1/4". spark had apparently been jumping the gap for a while. the ends were green and crusty. I have no idea how it was able to keep running.
 
Peeled back the protective sleeve on that wire from the igniter all the way to just under the EFI and there's no obvious damage. It looks to be in pretty good shape.

For the heck of it I thought I'd get out the multimeter and see what kind of voltage I got with those three wires. Honestly not sure if this info is useful or not. I'm still learning about a lot of this stuff.

bXZt3a8.png


B-R - 12.0v
B-W - 9.0v
B-Y - ~0.10v

I did find that I got a bad ground from the block to the body that I might have broken whenever I took the valve cover off as it attaches just below it and it was very fragile. Using a jumper cable I clamped a bolt on the block to the body and it definitely had an impact. Didn't start still but certainly not a good thing.

Without cable attached:
twLNHmS.jpg


With cable:
y1Z0jRc.jpg
 
the other spot these trucks are known for is the injector ground under the intake. this is a batch fire system, with the ground being the switch. if you test the injectors, you should have 12v on BOTH leads when its not running.

the junction under the intake where the 2 pairs of grounds come together is a common problem. it may take some digging to find them. apparently the factory splice is lacking...
 
battery voltage should be closer to 12.6. if you have that much loss (12.0), could be a factor in not starting.

what does your MM read from post to post on the battery? and clamp to clamp?
 
wallytoo said:
battery voltage should be closer to 12.6. if you have that much loss (12.0), could be a factor in not starting.

what does your MM read from post to post on the battery? and clamp to clamp?
Click to expand...

Post to post and clamp to clamp and "+" clamp to block all read 12.5v. The negative terminal does need to be replaced but it was on there pretty good.

I've got a new clamp so I might just throw it on, can't hurt.
 
Could be a failed igniter. There is no diffinitive way to test them. If it fails the ecu will not fire the injectors. Swap another one in and see what happens. Best to find used oem, I have not been impressed with the aftermarket one I bought for my truck.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thanks again for all the feedback. It helps a lot.

Put a new clamp on the negative terminal (the positive one is in real good shape so left it alone) and it didn't seem to help. I pulled off one of the injector plugs (from cylinder 1) and both wires are getting ~12.2 v (that's after some cranking on a battery that after all this probably isn't healthy) so power is making it to the injector. Only question that I have is do the injectors ground to the intake or the fuel rail? When I grounded my meter to the body of the injector itself I was getting low (6-7v) but to anything else - fuel rail, intake, block, etc I was getting the 12.2v. For the heck of it I also messed with the AFM and when I open the door in the airbox the relay clicks and the fuel pump kicks on.

So based on all that I'm leaning away it being electrical and leaning more towards a fuel delivery issue. I pulled the #1 spark plug out and after all the cranking I did it appeared dry (also it sparked when grounded to anything). I'll borrow the tester from Autozone and see what results I get.

Feel free to throw any more suggestions my way on what to look at.
 
yinger said:
Thanks again for all the feedback. It helps a lot.

Put a new clamp on the negative terminal (the positive one is in real good shape so left it alone) and it didn't seem to help. I pulled off one of the injector plugs (from cylinder 1) and both wires are getting ~12.2 v (that's after some cranking on a battery that after all this probably isn't healthy) so power is making it to the injector. Only question that I have is do the injectors ground to the intake or the fuel rail? When I grounded my meter to the body of the injector itself I was getting low (6-7v) but to anything else - fuel rail, intake, block, etc I was getting the 12.2v. For the heck of it I also messed with the AFM and when I open the door in the airbox the relay clicks and the fuel pump kicks on.

So based on all that I'm leaning away it being electrical and leaning more towards a fuel delivery issue. I pulled the #1 spark plug out and after all the cranking I did it appeared dry (also it sparked when grounded to anything). I'll borrow the tester from Autozone and see what results I get.

Feel free to throw any more suggestions my way on what to look at.
Click to expand...
the injector ground is in a loom, under the intake. they ground at the ECU. but there is a common connection in the loom. you will have to dig for it.
 
nevada said:
the injector ground is in a loom, under the intake. they ground at the ECU. but there is a common connection in the loom. you will have to dig for it.
Click to expand...

That sounds like a blast. If the pump and rails check out for fuel pressure I'll look at it when I take everything off to pull the head to fix the bad exhaust valve.

Thanks again
 
Only took a week but finally got around to testing the fuel pressure and it's looking like a new pump might be in my future. Here's what I got at the cold start injector and the inlet to the fuel filter.

iwzIuwu.jpg


KCrAR2k.jpg


So unless there's something else I need to check first I'm getting a new fuel pump....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 372 (members: 1, guests: 371)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,307
Messages
3,554,054
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top