04-29-2020, 04:27 PM
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#1
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Wiring Light Bar to Turn Off When 4Runner Shuts Off
Hey Guys. This is my first post on here and I have a pretty basic question regarding light bar wiring. I don’t have an electrical background, and earlier this year I did a bunch of research and taught myself how to install a light bar on my 2017 4Runner Limited. It turned out great, the only problem I have now is that I occasionally forget to turn it off when I get out of the car and then the next morning when I need to get somewhere my battery is dead. I know the simple answer is to turn the thing off, but I’d like to figure out a way to make it turn off automatically in order that I’m not late anymore because I have to jump my battery. I have the bar wired to a lighted rocker switch and it’s attached to a fuse. I tried moving the fuse to an empty accessory fuse, but the light bar remains on when I turn off the car and it is turned on. I’m some of you guys have figured out a way to make this happen, and I’d love to hear how.
Thanks,
Shane
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04-30-2020, 11:38 AM
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#2
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So I've been doing more research on this topic now and I found a post on a Tundra forum that found a way to do this. They found a fuse that is only powered when the ignition is turned on. I thought I tried every open fuse but maybe not. Does anyone know off the top of their head which fuse on a '17 limited would accomplish this?
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04-30-2020, 12:53 PM
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#3
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Wiring Light Bar to Turn Off When 4Runner Shuts Off
So it depends on how you're wiring it. If your wiring only consists of fuse>switch>light, that means the light is pulling power directly from that circuit, and likely going to overload the wires that feed that original circuit. Remember, fuses protect WIRES, not necessarily components. And the wires in today's cars are engineered right at the limit for the circuit to which it provides power.
Therefore, your best bet is a relay. That way the big power side can feed the light directly from battery (battery>fuse>relay>light) and the switch only powers up the relay's trigger side or control side. (fuse>relay>switch). In doing it this way, there is minimal draw on the ignition-on circuit you choose to tap into.
And to make life somewhat simpler, doing it this way means you can use an "add-a-fuse" for the switch side of the relay since again, the power used to activate the relay is almost nothing. I would google relays and learn how to get that dialed in.
Otherwise, if you want to run directly via a key-on fuse, you just need to find a fuse with no power key-off, and then click the ignition on 2 clicks and recheck the fuse for power. Likely one labeled "ignition 1" is going to do it for you.
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The 4Reak Show: 1995 4Runner, 3.4 swapped, manual conversion, supercharged & 7th injected, Eaton TrueTrac in rear, poly bushings F&R, lots of other outrageous add ons...
Wife's: 2016 Trail Premium, bone stock until she joins T4R.org one day...
Last edited by 4Reak Show; 04-30-2020 at 12:59 PM.
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04-30-2020, 02:29 PM
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#4
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If you are using a relay as you should be, then you want to make sure the switch-controlled signal wire to the relay is supplied by an ignition/accessory circuit instead of something that is always hot.
This will ensure that power to the light bar is cut when you key off the truck.
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04-30-2020, 03:09 PM
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#5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Reak Show
So it depends on how you're wiring it. If your wiring only consists of fuse>switch>light, that means the light is pulling power directly from that circuit, and likely going to overload the wires that feed that original circuit. Remember, fuses protect WIRES, not necessarily components. And the wires in today's cars are engineered right at the limit for the circuit to which it provides power.
Therefore, your best bet is a relay. That way the big power side can feed the light directly from battery (battery>fuse>relay>light) and the switch only powers up the relay's trigger side or control side. (fuse>relay>switch). In doing it this way, there is minimal draw on the ignition-on circuit you choose to tap into.
And to make life somewhat simpler, doing it this way means you can use an "add-a-fuse" for the switch side of the relay since again, the power used to activate the relay is almost nothing. I would google relays and learn how to get that dialed in.
Otherwise, if you want to run directly via a key-on fuse, you just need to find a fuse with no power key-off, and then click the ignition on 2 clicks and recheck the fuse for power. Likely one labeled "ignition 1" is going to do it for you.
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I have it wired with one of those wiring harnesses you can buy off of amazon. The only difference is that instead of using the switch that game with the harness, I found one that is pretty close to the OEM switches. The hot line to the relay is hooked up to the battery. I use an empty fuse that is located under the driver's side dash to power the switch using one of those build a fuse plug in kits. I've tried moving around which empty fuse I use, yet the switch still seems to be able to turn on the bar, even when the igntion is off.
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04-30-2020, 03:11 PM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bumbo
If you are using a relay as you should be, then you want to make sure the switch-controlled signal wire to the relay is supplied by an ignition/accessory circuit instead of something that is always hot.
This will ensure that power to the light bar is cut when you key off the truck.
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I use the fuse panel that is underneath the driver's side dash. I've tried moving around empty fuse spots to see if one of them cuts with the ignition, but none of them seem too. Yes I am using a harness with a relay. Currently, I have one of those plug in build a fuse kits to plug in the fuse. Is there another spot or am I missing which open fuse is accessory instead of always hot?
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04-30-2020, 03:29 PM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baucat9
I use the fuse panel that is underneath the driver's side dash. I've tried moving around empty fuse spots to see if one of them cuts with the ignition, but none of them seem too. Yes I am using a harness with a relay. Currently, I have one of those plug in build a fuse kits to plug in the fuse. Is there another spot or am I missing which open fuse is accessory instead of always hot?
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You're probably going to have to use an add a fuse for the signal line to ensure you're grabbing an Acc or key on circuit. Something like this: Amazon.com: ATM Add-A-Fuse (Same Function as Bussmann BP/HHH) ATM Fuse Tap: Automotive
It allows an additional circuit fed thru a different fuse. Grab a multimeter, find a fuse that is not hot key off. Recheck fuse key on. Pull that fuse, install add a fuse. Have that loose wire feed the relay signal side.
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The 4Reak Show: 1995 4Runner, 3.4 swapped, manual conversion, supercharged & 7th injected, Eaton TrueTrac in rear, poly bushings F&R, lots of other outrageous add ons...
Wife's: 2016 Trail Premium, bone stock until she joins T4R.org one day...
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04-30-2020, 03:44 PM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baucat9
I use the fuse panel that is underneath the driver's side dash. I've tried moving around empty fuse spots to see if one of them cuts with the ignition, but none of them seem too. Yes I am using a harness with a relay. Currently, I have one of those plug in build a fuse kits to plug in the fuse. Is there another spot or am I missing which open fuse is accessory instead of always hot?
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Usually no need to go searching around.
Provided the relay is wired correctly, I generally tap off ignition control voltage off the cigarette/accessory circuit. I personally do this downstream of the fusing just to keep things cleaner and more OEM looking.
If you want to tap from the panel, you should be using a fuse tap that looks something like this.
Just because you are new at this... a word of caution for saftey and to prevent other issues, I wouldn't go probing around the panel like that just for kicks. You should be using a multimeter to find what you need, and it can be done without removing the fuse from the panel.
I have no idea if your relay is wired correctly and last thing you want to do is start back-feed circuits in the car.
Note: A relay is just a remote controlled switch. It allows you to use a smaller switch to control a bigger switch. The purpose is to control a load which would exceed the power handling of the smaller switch.
You need to take 12v (signal voltage) to operate that switch, and you can pull that 12v from anywhere you want.
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04-30-2020, 05:19 PM
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#9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Reak Show
You're probably going to have to use an add a fuse for the signal line to ensure you're grabbing an Acc or key on circuit. Something like this: Amazon.com: ATM Add-A-Fuse (Same Function as Bussmann BP/HHH) ATM Fuse Tap: Automotive
It allows an additional circuit fed thru a different fuse. Grab a multimeter, find a fuse that is not hot key off. Recheck fuse key on. Pull that fuse, install add a fuse. Have that loose wire feed the relay signal side.
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I've been looking more at the circuit and I do not think there is a way to prevent the switch from being on a hot circuit without rewiring the hot source to be from the fuse box instead of straight off the battery. Is this common? Also since it is a box with a lid, is it safe to cut a hole or do I just not put the cap on?
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04-30-2020, 05:22 PM
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#10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bumbo
Usually no need to go searching around.
Provided the relay is wired correctly, I generally tap off ignition control voltage off the cigarette/accessory circuit. I personally do this downstream of the fusing just to keep things cleaner and more OEM looking.
If you want to tap from the panel, you should be using a fuse tap that looks something like this.
Just because you are new at this... a word of caution for saftey and to prevent other issues, I wouldn't go probing around the panel like that just for kicks. You should be using a multimeter to find what you need, and it can be done without removing the fuse from the panel.
I have no idea if your relay is wired correctly and last thing you want to do is start back-feed circuits in the car.
Note: A relay is just a remote controlled switch. It allows you to use a smaller switch to control a bigger switch. The purpose is to control a load which would exceed the power handling of the smaller switch.
You need to take 12v (signal voltage) to operate that switch, and you can pull that 12v from anywhere you want.
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I think you're right. I think I am going to need to change the hot line to the bar. Right now it is the battery, but I believe the harness uses the battery as well to draw this power to operate the switch. Therefore, do you think I should rewire the circuit to have the hot line coming from the fuse box?
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04-30-2020, 05:32 PM
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#11
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I think you should start including photos of your install, because I am concerned you might not be understanding what needs to be done and why.
- The bulk of the harness should be "under the hood"
- You should not be drawing load current (the bigger wire) from the fuse box to power the light bar.
- You should not have battery mains (power line for the light bar) coming into the cab.
- Fuse box is your tap location for signal voltage only (which goes to the inside switch, to send the signal to the relay to turn on/off)
Last edited by Bumbo; 05-01-2020 at 12:36 AM.
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05-06-2020, 01:39 AM
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#12
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Do you have a fuse for turn signals? Tap it off that.
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10-31-2021, 07:25 PM
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#13
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Howdy, I wanna know which wire to use to power on lightbar only when car is on
I have this harness with a 4pin relay. My lightbar draws 12 amps. Do i use one of the 3 switch wires to go to add a fuse in the ignition? Or do I extend the red wire that’s supposed to go to the battery terminal, to go inside the car and add a fuse to it? Or do I use one of the wires from my 4 wire rocker switch to the add a fuse? Thanks
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11-01-2021, 04:39 PM
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#14
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A solution has been pretty thoroughly covered... but my question is how do you not realize your lightbar is on after exiting the vehicle...? Even the most Chinese bars have more than enough output to clearly see it lit at night, and absolutely no reason to be running a light bar when its light outside.. mall parking lots tend to be pretty well lit just about everywhere.. (JK JK)
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11-17-2021, 12:25 AM
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#15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samro
I have this harness with a 4pin relay. My lightbar draws 12 amps. Do i use one of the 3 switch wires to go to add a fuse in the ignition? Or do I extend the red wire that’s supposed to go to the battery terminal, to go inside the car and add a fuse to it? Or do I use one of the wires from my 4 wire rocker switch to the add a fuse? Thanks
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RY45UHCfeHk
He explains it pretty well on how to make one of these relay panels to switch on your lightbar. I would add a circuit breaker from the fuse box to the positive battery terminal.
Around 13:00 is when he talks about how the switch (AOB rocker switch or push button) will trigger the relay to power the accessory.
I think you will need to connect a hot wire from the light bar to one of the power screws on the bus and ground the light to a body ground.
Then connect a ground from your AOB to the switch screw.
Another video. He explains how it works around 8:00:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BvFHA1xY10w
Someone can correct me if i am wrong and maybe someone with a little more knowledge can verify if the video is for a negative or positive switch.
Looking at this diagram for a negative switch, i think the two videos are are a positive switch. Here's a diagram and videos for a negative switch:
https://overlandbound.com/downloads/fuse3.jpg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6HcNlI7Mg6I
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FWdhmu9TuQk
The white wire and red wire are both going to the positive terminal on the battery. Also note that these guys were using different relays and so the colors are off. Ex. One guy says the middle wire is yellow while the other guy's is red.
FINAL EDIT: SAKER actually has a nice write up connecting the lightbar to relays. I actually had this bookmarked.
LED LIGHT BAR INSTALL on a 2014 T4R
Last edited by catchx46; 11-17-2021 at 05:45 PM.
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