LED LIGHT BAR INSTALL on a 2014 T4R - Toyota 4Runner Forum

Saker · 03-21-2014, 01:09 AM

LED LIGHT BAR INSTALL

The purpose of this write-up is to help people that are interested in installing a light bar behind the grill of their 2014 Toyota 4Runner. I will list the parts used as well as pictures.

For the cleanest install, I'd recommend a full relay harness. TRS makes a nice one, and it's actually got two relays which might be nice if you want to add another light in the future.
HD Relay: H1/H3 - Wire Harnesses - Components
To make things easy, I'd also get these and I'll explain why later:
9006 Extension Cords - Accessories from The Retrofit Source

If you go with a relay harness like the one above, you'll simply connect the power connector to the battery, connect the ground connector to a ground, run the light plugs towards the light in the grill and connect the switch wire to the signal wire in the relay harness. The first three are very easy, the last one takes a bit more work.
In this case, the relay harness has an H1/H3 and you won't need that, so you can cut that connector off. When you cut that connector off, the wire left (orange insulated wire) is where you'll connect the switch wire to. Of course, you'll need to extend that wire from the switch to wherever you mount the relay harness. The other wire (black insulated wire) is a ground wire that will need a terminal.

Now, you'll need to connect a wire from the high beam or fuse to the trigger wire on the switch to provide it with power. This is the questionable part. By connecting to a fuse, you'll have to hit the switch every time you want to turn the lights on. Honestly, it's a pain in the butt if you plan on using your lights on back roads at night. Connecting to the high beam is much more convenient since you can leave the switch on and every time you turn the high beams on, the eBay bar will light up without having to hit the switch. Very handy. If you choose to connect the eBay bar to a fuse and not the high beams, you have two choices. One, you connect it to a fuse that's always hot. Two, you connect to a fuse that is only on when the ignition is on. The advantage of the first option is that you can turn the light on any time, whether the truck is on or off. That's also the disadvantage because it's easy to accidentally leave on. I'm going to suggest you run the trigger wire on the switch to the driver's side headlight and connect it to the high beam wire. (Don't forget to install a Mini Waterproof 3 or 5 Amp In Line Standard Blade Type Fuse Holder on this circuit!) This should work whether you have the DRL or not.

This should give you an operational switch, an operation harness and the only thing left is to connect the light to the relay harness. This is where those 9006 extension cords come in. Plug those extensions into the end of the relay harness at the light, cutoff the part you don't need and splice your light's wires into that extension cord. Basically, it'll leave you with a nice clean plug so it's easy to remove the light in the future.

I'd do all of this in a few stages. You'll need two provide two wires of your own, so you can simply use a speaker wire or something like that that already has two wires in it. They're both going to the switch on one end, and close to the headlight on the other. Run that wire first, through an existing rubber grommet on the firewall near the master cylinder. Do the switch next. Relay harness after that. Attach the lights. Fire it up and make sure everything works. Finally, clean up the wiring, make it pretty, attach the relay where you want it and enjoy the lighting.

Things you'll need:

The switch. Mine came from AirOnBoard USA
TOYOTA 4RUNNER Replacement Switches -Air On Board
The relay harness I linked to, or something like it.
A length of wire as discussed. I used 18-2 gauge stranded speaker wire.
At least three 18-22 gauge t-taps (one at headlight, one at illumination wire on existing switch in dash) A few extra won't hurt since those things are temperamental at best.
Butt connectors, at least 5 for the new switch ( (1)ground, (2)power and (2)trigger wire (solder and heat shrink tubing is preferred if you're capable)
Mini Waterproof Amp In Line Standard Blade Type Fuse Holder (comes with a 10 or 20 amp fuse change to a 3 or 5 amp) This goes on the trigger circuit!

I hope this help someone wanting to install something similar!

Simple Aux Light Wiring Dia for 4Runner

Upper Access Cover - Removed

Lower Access Cover - Removed

Aluminum Brackets Fabricated

eBay 22inch 120 Watt LED Light Bar

Positioning Brackets

Bumper Drilled and Tapped for Brackets

LED Light Bar Mounted

LED Light Bar Mounted Underside View

LED Light Bar Mounted Grill View

Wiring Harness and Relays Installed

LED Light Bar Trigger Wire Connected to High Beam Wire

LED Light Bar Switch Wired Up
(Obviously, the blue/white wire will be run thru the switch hole and connected back to the T-tap)

LED Light Bar Switch

LED Light Bar_1

LED Light Bar_2

As requested, Light Output Pics Added

Low Beams

Low and High Beams

Full Beams with LED Light Bar
(Keep in mind, output is partially blocked by grill, haven't decided whether to cut it or not!)

Picture after the grill opened up!
Huge Difference!

Tilldain · 03-21-2014, 01:58 AM

Looks Great nice walk-through.

quick question on the brackets, you mentioned you fabricated them, but dont mention any where to get the parts or anything about them other than the aluminum, are they full fab or you buy the pieces and drill it out? to make them?

Thank you.

simplemind · 03-21-2014, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Saker

[B]LED LIGHT BAR INSTALL
The purpose of this write-up is to help people that are interested in installing a light bar behind the grill of their 2014 Toyota 4Runner. I will list the parts used as well as pictures.

An awesome write up and excellent photos!
I would like to see a couple of night shots w and w/o oem lights. Any possibility?

nevans2005 · 03-21-2014, 10:41 AM

Came out really good and great pics of the setup

Jono.ful · 03-21-2014, 10:52 AM

I feel like you're yelling at me, but I don't know what I've done wrong

BigredTEX · 03-21-2014, 11:04 AM

Did you have to pull any dash panels to get to the switch blanks and install the new switches? I'm installing a couple of lights this weekend and have the new switches, but haven't done a search of the forum yet to see if it is really necessary to pull any panels to get to the back side of the switch blanks and install the new switches.

OldSchool1959 · 03-21-2014, 11:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by simplemind

An awesome write up and excellent photos!
I would like to see a couple of night shots w and w/o oem lights. Any possibility?

If I read his very good write up correctly, the high beam switch is used to trigger the light bar relay and without the HBs on, the LED bar is dark. I think I'll wire mine to be a triggered by the push button switch only so I can run the light bar without OEM lights or in any combo with.

Jeremy556 · 03-21-2014, 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldSchool1959

If I read his very good write up correctly, the high beam switch is used to trigger the light bar relay and without the HBs on, the LED bar is dark. I think I'll wire mine to be a triggered by the push button switch only so I can run the light bar without OEM lights or in any combo with.

Why would you want to use one without the other?

With is wired to the high beams, turning those off, turns off all your blinding lights. Much faster than fumbling with switches on the dash.

I had mine wired to a ignition switched power source for about a week, before changing over to the high beam circuit.

Saker · 03-21-2014, 02:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tilldain

Looks Great nice walk-through.
quick question on the brackets, you mentioned you fabricated them, but dont mention any where to get the parts or anything about them other than the aluminum, are they full fab or you buy the pieces and drill it out? to make them?
Thank you.

They were made from a piece of 6" Aluminum channel, cut 2" wide, then each piece cut in half, slotted and then drilled.

Quote:

Originally Posted by simplemind

An awesome write up and excellent photos!
I would like to see a couple of night shots w and w/o oem lights. Any possibility?

I'll try to do that in the next couple of days.

Quote:

Originally Posted by nevans2005

Came out really good and great pics of the setup

Thanks!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jono.ful

I feel like you're yelling at me, but I don't know what I've done wrong

I don't know why one would feel like that....It's not in all uppercase.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigredTEX

Did you have to pull any dash panels to get to the switch blanks and install the new switches? I'm installing a couple of lights this weekend and have the new switches, but haven't done a search of the forum yet to see if it is really necessary to pull any panels to get to the back side of the switch blanks and install the new switches.

You can pull the switch blanks by using a plastic panel removal tool by prying under the blank. Use a plastic tool so you don't mar the dash. I only pulled the switch blanks you see pulled. I didn't have to pull anything else. Much to my surprise!

OldSchool1959 · 03-21-2014, 02:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeremy556

Why would you want to use one without the other?

With is wired to the high beams, turning those off, turns off all your blinding lights. Much faster than fumbling with switches on the dash.

I had mine wired to a ignition switched power source for about a week, before changing over to the high beam circuit.

1.) So that I could post a picture of just the light bar for people asking for such.
2.) I'm pretty sure I'd never want to kick those blazers on WITH the high beams when I was flashing an oncoming vehicle to signify that their brights were on.
3.) Flexibility. I've learned in my 55 years that if you have an option to leave in a feature that provides flexibility you do it.
Ok, I'm out of reasons now.

Saker · 03-22-2014, 05:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by simplemind

An awesome write up and excellent photos!
I would like to see a couple of night shots w and w/o oem lights. Any possibility?

Output pics added to original posting.
Can't do any without OEM lights, the high beam triggers the LED Light Bar.

Antman · 03-22-2014, 07:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigredTEX

Did you have to pull any dash panels to get to the switch blanks and install the new switches? I'm installing a couple of lights this weekend and have the new switches, but haven't done a search of the forum yet to see if it is really necessary to pull any panels to get to the back side of the switch blanks and install the new switches.

OP is correct, you can pry the switched out, but it's easier to just yank the panel off to get to the switches. You literally just pull and it comes loose at the top far enough to get your hand in there to release the switches.

@Saker Nice writeup! Have a link to the switch? I can't find it anywhere online, nor can I find a homesite for AirOnBoard USA that is useful. Thanks.

dekeman · 03-22-2014, 08:10 AM

Awesome write up. Antman has a twin!
Thanks for this, had been thinking of doing just the same thing, now I have inspiration — and a well-documented how to.

_SP_ · 03-22-2014, 09:53 AM

nice I like the lightbar. not a bad idea to hide it like that.

Saker · 03-22-2014, 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Antman

OP is correct, you can pry the switched out, but it's easier to just yank the panel off to get to the switches. You literally just pull and it comes loose at the top far enough to get your hand in there to release the switches.

@Saker Nice writeup! Have a link to the switch? I can't find it anywhere online, nor can I find a homesite for AirOnBoard USA that is useful. Thanks.

Thanks for the mention Antman!

AOB has been having a few issues with their supplier, so the website has been up and down.
I suggest going to their "contact us" section and sending them a note telling them you are interested in one/some switches.
Best I can do.

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