04 V8 Block Heater Install Question

Radial GT

New member
I did this upgrade on my v6 and it was silly easy because Toyota provided a nice external spot on the engine for the unit to slide into. The v8 actually uses a freeze plug, and I have read the directions on the install. It tells you to use a freeze plug on the right side, second one back from the front. I have looked in the engine bay and holy cow is it tight. Has anyone done this install? It gets really cold here and I like to plug the truck in at night and really want to get this installed. Thanks!
 
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The V6 heater looks really nice to install.

I searched a while back, and I could hardly find any info about installing a heater in the V8. Plus, I found a lot of confusing information about compatibility for different part numbers. Different Toyotas that use the 4.7 V8 need different part numbers, even though I can't figure out what the difference could be. Kat's lists the same part number for all of them, which makes more sense.

Here's one thread where someone installed one in a 4runner
V8 Engine Block Heater? - Colorado Winters - Page 2 - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum

The application guide recommends FIPG on the O-ring
http://www.fivestarmanufacturing.co...c3ac5e81/TOYOTA_BLOCK_HEATER_APPL__GUIDE.aspx
Toyota Adhesive & Sealant Cross Reference Chart - YotaTech Forums


I'd like to install one to save fuel on short trips and warm up faster in the winter (clear the windows sooner), but it's not really necessary here. I can't always park by a plug overnight, so I don't know how much I would be able to use it anyway. I might install one if I have to drain the coolant for some other reason, but then again I'm also worried about it leaking.

Keep us updated if you install one!
 
The original owner of my 03 V8 did not have a block heater. When I bought it used through my local Toyota dealer, that was the first thing I had the dealership install before taking delivery.

The block heater definitely makes the cold Canadian winter starts that much easier (along with using full synthetic Mobil 1 5W30 oil).
 
Thursday I am heading to my friendly Toyota service guy for service to the wife's car, and I'll be hitting him up for what he knows too.

I too run full synthetic 5w30 and oil in the truck.

Thanks for the replies! The sound of a vehicle starting at -40f is a terrifying experience. And would like to avoid that if I can. Other cars I've done installs on have been easy because the frost plugs are easy to get to. This thing though is a bit snug in those areas. Really hoping to find a picture showing the finished product.
 
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I did it! I thought it was going to be a lot more difficult, but it turned out only being a 2 hour job start to finish. One thing though, it is really snug inside the block. At first I thought there was no way the block heater was going to fit in there, but it fit fine.

To preform the install remove the passenger side tire, and the goofy little plastic flappy thingy to expose the engine. Next drain the coolant from the block using the provided drain port right next to the frost plug. I just changed my water pump so I had fresh coolant already, I caught it into a clean catch pan and reused it. Hammer out the frost plug, install heater. Super easy.
 

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Cool! It looks like your photos are looking through the wheel well. There's not a lot of space in there!

Where did you route the wire? The instructions are kind of vague, but maybe it's more obvious once you get in there?

"R.H.S. 2nd from front.
Route harness by A/T cooler lines, around radiator on passenger side next to power steering lines and out at lower bumper opening."

I'll probably do this when I do the timing belt and water pump. Or maybe sooner to get better gas mileage on short trips in the winter.
 
For the 2UZ-FE V8 engine (4.7 Litre) the part number for the block heater is C0140-00134.

CORE HOLE PLUG LOCATION AND CORDSET ROUTING - R.H.S. 2nd from front.
Route harness by A/T cooler lines, around radiator on passenger side next to power steering lines and out at lower bumper opening.

For the 1GR-FE V6 engine (4.0 Litre) the part number for the block heater is PU140-00902.

CORE HOLE PLUG LOCATION AND CORDSET ROUTING - Left side rear.
Route cord up and tie the cord to the heater hose with a strap. Route the cord forward and go behind both the left hand side rear and front brackets attaching to the manifold and the cylinder head. Tie the cord to the rear bracket with a strap. CAUTION: KEEP THE CORD AWAY FROM THE FUEL LINE. Route the cord between the front bracket and the engine oil fill pipe and to the front. Tie the cord to the RPM harness, the battery cable and the transmission cooling line.
 
RadialGT, where did you find the block heater?

My local Toyota dealership actually! They have been my go-to for my block heater needs for my last 3 Toyotas. I did take a picture of the box though so you can search for the part number if you don't live close to a dealership. Because we live in a frozen God-aweful part of the country they actually stock these things year round.
 
For the 2UZ-FE V8 engine (4.7 Litre) the part number for the block heater is C0140-00134.

CORE HOLE PLUG LOCATION AND CORDSET ROUTING - R.H.S. 2nd from front.
Route harness by A/T cooler lines, around radiator on passenger side next to power steering lines and out at lower bumper opening.

For the 1GR-FE V6 engine (4.0 Litre) the part number for the block heater is PU140-00902.

CORE HOLE PLUG LOCATION AND CORDSET ROUTING - Left side rear.
Route cord up and tie the cord to the heater hose with a strap. Route the cord forward and go behind both the left hand side rear and front brackets attaching to the manifold and the cylinder head. Tie the cord to the rear bracket with a strap. CAUTION: KEEP THE CORD AWAY FROM THE FUEL LINE. Route the cord between the front bracket and the engine oil fill pipe and to the front. Tie the cord to the RPM harness, the battery cable and the transmission cooling line.

There really isn't a science to running that cord. Just make sure whatever you attach it to, it will not cause a chaffing issue. They provide PLENTY of cord to get it up to the grill, where I zip tied it down low. In the summer I cut the zip tie and hide it by the headlight. I have found that the plug end wedges nicely in the lower black grill when not in use so it doesn't flop all over the place.

The V6 model does not require any of this draining coolant business, which was really nice. The V6 installation (my previous truck) took me 10 minutes, and 5 of that was getting under the truck and finding where it goes. It goes on the driver's side under the truck near the starter where the bell housing meets the transmission. It is a shaft apparatus with a clip and it slides into a pre-formed casting on the block. It is RIDICULOUS how easy the V6 is.
 
I did it! I thought it was going to be a lot more difficult, but it turned out only being a 2 hour job start to finish. One thing though, it is really snug inside the block. At first I thought there was no way the block heater was going to fit in there, but it fit fine.

To preform the install remove the passenger side tire, and the goofy little plastic flappy thingy to expose the engine. Next drain the coolant from the block using the provided drain port right next to the frost plug. I just changed my water pump so I had fresh coolant already, I caught it into a clean catch pan and reused it. Hammer out the frost plug, install heater. Super easy.

Can you explain the "hammer out the frost plug" procedure. How do you get it out in a way it doesn't fall into the engine? It looks like there is nothing to grab to get it out.

Thanks.
 
Hammer on one side so it rotates in the hole, then grab the part that sticks out. Or hammer in the middle to deform it enough that it no longer fits securely in the hole?
 
Can you explain the "hammer out the frost plug" procedure. How do you get it out in a way it doesn't fall into the engine? It looks like there is nothing to grab to get it out.

Thanks.

In the pictures that I posted, there is one when I have a flat head screw driver on the frost plug. This is where you take a screw driver and hammer on the lower portion of the frost plug. It will cause the lower portion of the frost plug that you are hammering on to swing into the engine block. When that happens the top portion of the plug will swing outward so you can grab it with a pair of pliers.
 
OK, I got mine installed. Thanks to [MENTION=108824]thenuka[/MENTION] for helping me get the part from Canada.

It turned out to be extremely difficult. When I hammered the freeze plug, it mostly just went in at a slight angle instead of rotating. Then since there is so little space I couldn't rotate it to pull it out. I ended up cutting away some of it with a Dremel. After that the rest of the install was easy. I spent about 4 hours, and most of that time was spent contorting my arms to try to reach the freeze plug. I wouldn't recommend installing one in a V8 unless you really need it.

I should have rotated it clockwise a little more to give the cord space to plug in, but I put FIPG sealant on it, so I'm not going to go back and fix it. I'm worried about the cord rubbing over time, but maybe it will hold up, and if not it's easily replaceable if I can find the part.

I wasn't sure how tight to make the heater, but since the system can pressurize up to 15 PSI I made it as tight as I could. The bolt on the heater takes a 4mm hex key or flat screwdriver, but it's brass so it's very soft.

Does anyone know if it's bad to have particles in the coolant? I got some metal dust in there from the Dremel, and there were a few black particles that came out when I drained the block, and a bit of dust blew into the coolant bucket while I was working. I just changed the coolant when I did the timing belt, and I'd rather not replace it again. That stuff is expensive.
 
The particles in the coolant were bugging me, so I decided to drain most of it out and filtered it. It was really easy now that I've done it several times. I just collected it in a bucket then poured it back in through a coffee filter in a funnel. The filter caught some bits leaves, some black stuff, and a few metal particles. I didn't see as many metal particles as I expected from all the grinding, so I might put a magnet in the system somewhere if the freeze plug is magnetic. They are relatively heavy, so they should settle out somewhere, but if not I don't want any chance of them damaging the water pump seal.

I didn't use new coolant because I just replaced it all when I did the timing belt a few weeks ago, and that stuff is expensive. I'll also filter some of the old coolant I saved from the timing belt job in case I need to top off a little, so I don't have to buy another gallon. Doing the timing belt used almost exactly 3 gallons of coolant.
 
Since this is not an often-discussed topic, I thought I should piggyback on an old post instead of starting a new one so future searchers have all the info in one place...

For those who have installed these and other heaters (like battery and transmission pads) has anyone embraced the whole "smart switch/plug" technology?

Not exactly sure how I would go about doing this, but I thought it could be interesting to have the plugs activated by temperature or timer or something. For example, it might include an instruction like

If the temperature is 40 or below, then turn on the battery warmer pad.
If at 5AM the temperature is 20 or below, then turn on the block heater
if at 5AM the temperature is 0 or below, then turn on block heater and Transmission heater

Something like that would keep the battery warm overnight, but no need to keep the engine/transmission warm until it's closer to being used.

Overkill? yes. But I like gadgets and gizmos.
 
Thanks for the info. Gonna do this on my 08 before it gets cold here in ND. Two seasons...winter and winter is coming.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
There really isn't a science to running that cord. Just make sure whatever you attach it to, it will not cause a chaffing issue. They provide PLENTY of cord to get it up to the grill, where I zip tied it down low. In the summer I cut the zip tie and hide it by the headlight. I have found that the plug end wedges nicely in the lower black grill when not in use so it doesn't flop all over the place.

The V6 model does not require any of this draining coolant business, which was really nice. The V6 installation (my previous truck) took me 10 minutes, and 5 of that was getting under the truck and finding where it goes. It goes on the driver's side under the truck near the starter where the bell housing meets the transmission. It is a shaft apparatus with a clip and it slides into a pre-formed casting on the block. It is RIDICULOUS how easy the V6 is.

Sorry for asking what is probably a stupid question, but do you have anything that you can post on the V6 install?
 
Coolant Leak From Block Heater?

Been digging around for info on this issue, but haven't found any posts.

I've got an 03 SR5 V8, and have had it for 2 years. Recently developed a coolant leak, and after investigating couldn't figure it out. Local Toyota dealer took a look at it, and has said the coolant is leaking from around the block heater connection with the block.

We never use the block heater. The Toyota dealer said they couldn't fix it, because if they remove the block heater, they were concerned they couldn't get a replacement to put back in. I'm guessing its the C014002134 part. They also said they weren't sure if they could get a replacement frost plug to fit back in if we didn't want to replace the block heater. They recommended contacting a machinist. The indie who normally works on the car is now freaked out, and doesn't want to touch it ha.

Anyone have any issues with a coolant leak from the block heater install on the v8? I assume this block heater was installed when the car was new, as it was originally delivered in Manitoba (Canada) in early 2003, so it's now 18 years old.

Any experience with removing the block heater and replacing the front plug? I can't seem to find out if that's even a possibility, or the potential part # for the frost plug.

Anyway, any help would be much appreciated. Hopefully it's okay posting this in this thread, but this was the most detailed block heater thread I could find.
 
because if they remove the block heater, they were concerned they couldn't get a replacement to put back in.

Not sure if this helps at all, but I'd be willing to sell you the OEM block heater I bought a few years ago to use as a replacement. It's been sitting on a shelf waiting to be installed for about 3 years now.
 

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