The gentlemen I bought the truck from, an 08 V8 with 84k, was using Castrol Fully synthetic 0W-30(German Castrol). He said he had researched on BITOG and that's what made him chose it. I was wanting to run full synthetic for sure, but wasn't sure about the 0W. Is anybody out there using a 0W-30 and it is approved for the 4.7? I live in the mountains and it will get into the single digits during the winter, so I need a lower cold temp weight. BTW, I searched for info before I posted. Thanks
0w-30
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chris360hawks
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I run it in all my Toyotas.
It's a thick 0W30 but a very good oil and has a good pour point. I have used it for a long time now...along with Torco and Amsoil. The Mobil1 0W40 is a really thick 0 weight oil...have not used that. Once I run out of German Castrol, I am switching all my vehicles over to what I think is the best oil out there- Pennzoil Ultra 5W30.
So yes, it is a very good oil for all seasons, but I prefer something just a bit thinner- especially in the winter.
So yes, it is a very good oil for all seasons, but I prefer something just a bit thinner- especially in the winter.
Castrol 0W30 is one of the top tier synthetic oils out there. Made in Germany, not the US, unlike the rest of their "synthetics". As mentioned, it is actually a thicker 30W which, from most people's tests over on BITOG, seems to shear/perform more like a 40W.
I used it for years in my '95 Pathfinder, which had nearly 300,000 KMs on it w/o leaking a single drop from any seal, until I got my 4R which now runs it. I use it in our Volvo XC70 2.5 Turbo as well.
Dont' be concerned with the "0". The "0" is how the oil behaves at cold temperatures, and the "30" is how it behaves at operating temperature; so its still a 30W oil when your engine is fully warmed. Further to this, the 30W has a designated range of viscosity. Therefore, it is possible to have a 0W30 which is actually thicker and more shear-resistant than a 10W30 at operating temp.
The 4.7 calls for 5W30, so any oil which gets up to the top of your engine quicker in cold weather is a GOOD thing, even if we're talking "only" 0C/32F!
Make sure you couple it with a top-notch filter like a Mobil1 or Napa Gold (only the Golds, they are re-branded Wix, not Silver or regular) and you're good to go. :thumb3:
I used it for years in my '95 Pathfinder, which had nearly 300,000 KMs on it w/o leaking a single drop from any seal, until I got my 4R which now runs it. I use it in our Volvo XC70 2.5 Turbo as well.
Dont' be concerned with the "0". The "0" is how the oil behaves at cold temperatures, and the "30" is how it behaves at operating temperature; so its still a 30W oil when your engine is fully warmed. Further to this, the 30W has a designated range of viscosity. Therefore, it is possible to have a 0W30 which is actually thicker and more shear-resistant than a 10W30 at operating temp.
The 4.7 calls for 5W30, so any oil which gets up to the top of your engine quicker in cold weather is a GOOD thing, even if we're talking "only" 0C/32F!
Make sure you couple it with a top-notch filter like a Mobil1 or Napa Gold (only the Golds, they are re-branded Wix, not Silver or regular) and you're good to go. :thumb3:
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5W-30 Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic here in Colorado, including over-nites in the mountains when the temps have gotten way below zero.
Same oil running through the desert heat that was way above 105*.
No problems.
Factory calls for 5W-30 in the 2007 V8 4 x 4 Sport.
No reason to do differently
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Same oil running through the desert heat that was way above 105*.
No problems.
Factory calls for 5W-30 in the 2007 V8 4 x 4 Sport.
No reason to do differently
:If you go on BITOG and do a search on the Toyota 4.7 V8, you'll find that even running a cheap 99 cent 5-30 oil will produce great wear numbers.
Without saying which oil does best, the engine is so well built and engineered it will make any oil look good!
I have used German castrol and and all the above and settled on M1 5w-30 extended performance. A lot of good M1 reports on the V8, honestly most of the reports look the same with a variety of oils.
Just choose a brand or stick with the 0w-30 german castrol, good stuff!
Without saying which oil does best, the engine is so well built and engineered it will make any oil look good!
I have used German castrol and and all the above and settled on M1 5w-30 extended performance. A lot of good M1 reports on the V8, honestly most of the reports look the same with a variety of oils.
Just choose a brand or stick with the 0w-30 german castrol, good stuff!
This should be damn sticky as much as it is misunderstood.
Totally wrong, read above and see that 0W-30 and 5W-30 are the same at temp. But when you look at the spec sheet for Mobil 1 AFE and say Mobil 1 EP (0W-30 vs 5W-30) you will see that the pour points (deg F) and viscosity (Cst) are so similar as to make the point moot.
Presta24
New member
Dont' be concerned with the "0". The "0" is how the oil behaves at cold temperatures, and the "30" is how it behaves at operating temperature; so its still a 30W oil when your engine is fully warmed. Further to this, the 30W has a designated range of viscosity. Therefore, it is possible to have a 0W30 which is actually thicker and more shear-resistant than a 10W30 at operating temp.........
My point is that it flows better when cold, than "5" reducing engine wear. My comment about being the same rate at temp was incorrect.
FYI http://www.synthetic-oil-tech.com/d.cgi/1491254/which_30_weight_oil.htm
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The OP said he's getting into single digits in the mountains of NC. That's well and good.
Frankly, single digit temps are not that difficult on any engine that's running most any type of synthetic.
Here in Colorado and up north, we get into temps that are twenty five below or lower. That's A LOT colder than 'single digits' and tougher on a vehicle.
I've started countless diesel trucks running 15W-40 Rotella dino in single digits with no problem starting, operating or running for many miles and years.
The debate between 0W-30 and 5W-30 and even 10W-30 'synthetic' is pure nonsense at single digit temps.
Heck, for many years, I ran 10W-30 synthetic in my Toyota 4 x 4 in minus double digit temps and never had a problem starting or hurting the longevity of the engine.
The factory oil fill for the 4.7 V8 is 5W-30. I don't see what the problem is... unless one wants to make up a problem where there's none to begin with!
:The W in 0W-30 stands for Winter...NOT Weight.
0W-30 will probably do fine. But I'm not going to change for the sake of change. We've owned 4 vehicles running on 5w-30 exclusively for over 20 years and all over 300k miles. 1 is now approaching 500k miles. And last I heard one other one was approaching 400k miles. So why change??
0W-30 will probably do fine. But I'm not going to change for the sake of change. We've owned 4 vehicles running on 5w-30 exclusively for over 20 years and all over 300k miles. 1 is now approaching 500k miles. And last I heard one other one was approaching 400k miles. So why change??
