13WL and Toyota rim 75189
- Thread starter Jack Wruff
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Jack Wruff
Member
Jack Wruff
Member
Nobody knows !!
Just going to take a shot at it.
Can always change to 13WE if fit doesn't work out.
Just going to take a shot at it.
Can always change to 13WE if fit doesn't work out.
Dezert4Runner
Senior Member
2nd post here shows they fit. 1st gen Tacoma’s have identical front ends in regards to wheel fitment.
Jack Wruff
Member
Thanks a million Desert4runner.
Spot on.
Will now attack change out with pleasure.
Spot on.
Will now attack change out with pleasure.
Jack Wruff
Member
Update. Been ill for a couple of days so I tryed flxing me muscles and doing some wrenching. Got the 17mm bolts loosened ready for full on attack tomorrow.
BUT, what's this all about then ?
I use a 12mm flare wrench to loosen hydraulic lines, but the other side has a 10mm flare !! Something's happened before I owned this car.
Will dig deeper in the morning.
Thinking I might upgrade flex pipes and put in long items from top connection, leave out the solid pipe into the calliper.
Is this a silly idea ?
BUT, what's this all about then ?
I use a 12mm flare wrench to loosen hydraulic lines, but the other side has a 10mm flare !! Something's happened before I owned this car.
Will dig deeper in the morning.
Thinking I might upgrade flex pipes and put in long items from top connection, leave out the solid pipe into the calliper.
Is this a silly idea ?
Last edited:
Renegade_Medic
New member
For the brake lines, get these from the dealer
47314-35330 and 47316-35250
I dont remember which is which, but for a few bucks, just do both and call it a day.
47314-35330 and 47316-35250
I dont remember which is which, but for a few bucks, just do both and call it a day.
Jack Wruff
Member
Completed today on tail end of fever. The pipes were OK, just some mikey mousery by previous owner, forgivable in my book. Thanks for the comment Medic. Used OReilley reman calipers. Came in two different sized boxes, by two different reman shops prolly, they looked alright as could be determined by eye. Everything installed with minimal grunt, just one of the hydraulic line input ports was rough and needed patience. It leaked a tiny amount first time through the bleed but settled when I freed it then re-tightened.
Bleeding couldn't remove a soggy feel on instant pedal pressure, would firm up on second and third push, good enough find the rims fit so time to hit the road to bed in pads.
Soggy feel was a bit disconcerting but the brakes !! Blimee, didn't take much to prove to me that this is a great upgrade. Then fever called me to the couch for the day.
Today, I bled the brakes again starting at the rear and encountered the weirdness of ABS systems. Doing the Up/Down two person method, all of a sudden there was no action from the pumping. I remembered reading something about a brake actuator pump that was the answer to what that motor running is. So turned on ignition and the brake fluid flowed as required. Bled whole system flushing it and replacing fluid. Now I've read even more threads on forums and wonder which way to go to get the peday to feel like a brake system, ie instant response.
Any clues out there ?
Thanks too to Desert4runner for your help.
Bleeding couldn't remove a soggy feel on instant pedal pressure, would firm up on second and third push, good enough find the rims fit so time to hit the road to bed in pads.
Soggy feel was a bit disconcerting but the brakes !! Blimee, didn't take much to prove to me that this is a great upgrade. Then fever called me to the couch for the day.
Today, I bled the brakes again starting at the rear and encountered the weirdness of ABS systems. Doing the Up/Down two person method, all of a sudden there was no action from the pumping. I remembered reading something about a brake actuator pump that was the answer to what that motor running is. So turned on ignition and the brake fluid flowed as required. Bled whole system flushing it and replacing fluid. Now I've read even more threads on forums and wonder which way to go to get the peday to feel like a brake system, ie instant response.
Any clues out there ?
Thanks too to Desert4runner for your help.
Attachments
Dezert4Runner
Senior Member
I used stainless steel lines and a Motive brake bleeder and I got instant pedal response after my 231 TBU. I bled all 4 wheels with the key in the ignition turned to the “on” position. I had a ton of tiny air bubbles coming out of the back brake lines because I did front and rear lines, so getting all the air out of the system took a while for me. I’ve read doing a panic stop can release any trapped air form the abs module but I didn’t have a that issue myself.
At my wits end bleeding these brakes...
At my wits end bleeding these brakes...
Jack Wruff
Member
D4R, that wits end link massed me up the first time I saw it. Love the look of that tool you used, might end up with one (after two more cracks at problem tomorrow)
Running out today, even with out 100% functionality, the truth is that these are the brakes that should have been put on the car originally. It will stand on its nose now !!
Running out today, even with out 100% functionality, the truth is that these are the brakes that should have been put on the car originally. It will stand on its nose now !!
Jack Wruff
Member
So happy and glad to have done this upgrade. Now the system is 100% with a good bleed done, I can tell you this is how 4Runner brakes should have been from the start. When I really dive on the brakes, it is a linear activity. Not like it was where after the first 3 seconds and the brakes show fade and put your heart in your mouth. No, it's consistent to the stop now and repeatable straight after.
Interesting to follow up on Bigfishallday's concise write up where he talks of the weight of the discs. This what he posted "Tundra Rotors WEIGHT is 20.7 lbs… extra thickness makes a big difference and gives you a 5lb increase in the size of the primary heat sink in the braking system. The increase in rotor mass is probably the biggest benefit of this upgrade. (Remember that this is an extra 5.7 lbs of UN-SPRUNG WEIGHT, which means it will change the dynamics of how your vehicle handles and how the suspension reacts to the road. This is probably not much of a concern on a 4Runner, but a big deal on a sports car.)"
I think the weight help in slowing the reaction of the suspension, same as softer springs. For me, a good thing.
Then the extra mass adds to the centrifugal/petal force therefore making the steering less reactive to bumps, my car holds its path better than before.
All good folks.
Happy trails.
Interesting to follow up on Bigfishallday's concise write up where he talks of the weight of the discs. This what he posted "Tundra Rotors WEIGHT is 20.7 lbs… extra thickness makes a big difference and gives you a 5lb increase in the size of the primary heat sink in the braking system. The increase in rotor mass is probably the biggest benefit of this upgrade. (Remember that this is an extra 5.7 lbs of UN-SPRUNG WEIGHT, which means it will change the dynamics of how your vehicle handles and how the suspension reacts to the road. This is probably not much of a concern on a 4Runner, but a big deal on a sports car.)"
I think the weight help in slowing the reaction of the suspension, same as softer springs. For me, a good thing.
Then the extra mass adds to the centrifugal/petal force therefore making the steering less reactive to bumps, my car holds its path better than before.
All good folks.
Happy trails.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
I feel ya with the flu stuff. Sitting on my butt all day with a fever and really bad nausea.
Are steel lines worth the extra cost? I'm pretty happy with my TBU but there's always room for improvement right?
Are steel lines worth the extra cost? I'm pretty happy with my TBU but there's always room for improvement right?
