17-18 Volts at the Battery

blockhead

New member
It seems to run fine and having no issues. But my voltmeter shows 17-18 volts at the battery and beyond. I suspect this isn't good... Voltage regulator problem? If so, what do I check?

Thanks
 
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It seems to run fine and having no issues. But my voltmeter shows 17-18 volts at the battery and beyond. I suspect this isn't good... Voltage regulator problem? If so, what do I check?



Thanks



You're voltage regulator is internal to the alternator. The easiest solution is a new alternator. Do it soon cause batteries are not supposed to take that voltage. They won't last long, at least not from what I have seen first hand.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Yeah no good at all. Replace the ALT. OEM if you can find a good cheap used one is best option. Or a quality locally rebuilt unit. Avoid lifetime warranty auto store ones unless you want to be replacing it over and over.
 
Check your three connections at the plug at the alt, especially the Sense wire (white wire on Pin 3) and also the Alt-S fuse. Bad Sense connection tells the regulator to run flat out whether it needs it or not.

Ignore this and you run the risk of coming back here and whining you changed the alt and it still didn't fix it. Seen a few of those.
 
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Alternator Tested Good

NAPA tested the alternator. It tests good. Putting out 14.3 volts. I'll have to track down something else. Battery with car off is at 16.8 volts.
 
... especially the Sense wire (white wire on Pin 3) and also the Alt-S fuse. Bad Sense connection tells the regulator to run flat out whether it needs it or not..


NAPA tested the alternator. It tests good. Putting out 14.3 volts. I'll have to track down something else. Battery with car off is at 16.8 volts.

Alternator that tests good on the bench but does not get proper "S" signal will put out too much voltage.

Battery at 16.8Volts with engine off may mean:
1) Bad battery.
2) Bad multi-meter. Did you try another meter?



Ignore this and you run the risk of coming back here and whining you changed the alt and it still didn't fix it. Seen a few of those.
+1
many people like to replace parts, instead of doing their homework troubleshooting, because it's easier... but costly.
 
the alternator tested good 14.3volts with another volt meter .

with the vehicle cold put head lights on see what the meter reads. or use scan tool etc . then I would expect 12 volts not any more than 12 volts

ENGINE OFF FOR MORE THAN 5 HOURS / ENGINE OFF WHEN MEASURING.

if more than 12 volts the meter is junk .. you can also measure other batteries that you have like a 9volt battery.
 
a fully charged battery will be 12.6-12.7 volts....I don't WTF is going on with your battery....:noidea:
 
NAPA tested the alternator. It tests good. Putting out 14.3 volts. I'll have to track down something else. Battery with car off is at 16.8 volts.


Was that right after you turned the motor off? Try turning on the high beams for a minute or so, turn them off and then check voltage. If still that high, it is very weird.

Check again with high beams back on.

I repeat, check your alt wiring, especially the Sense circuit.

This may help:

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/ewdtmc2/ewdtmpdf/ewdsourc/2002/024runne/systemci/014cs.pdf

Do you get battery voltage on Pin 3 of the alt plug with engine off, key on?
 
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Put the multimeter on AC and stick it in a wall outlet. What is the reading?

Also if you have your multimeter set to AC instead of DC you will get a high reading. Are you using AC or DC setting?
 
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Bad Battery in MultiMeter

Well that was dumb. Glad I didn't buy a new alternator! [MENTION=80771]RAD4Runner[/MENTION] was right on suspecting the multimeter.

Terrible. Sorry to waste everyone's time, but at least I learned a little on the way, so thanks for that!
 
Well that was dumb. Glad I didn't buy a new alternator! [MENTION=80771]RAD4Runner[/MENTION] was right on suspecting the multimeter.

Terrible. Sorry to waste everyone's time, but at least I learned a little on the way, so thanks for that!

Volt meters, even bench tests aren't the total gospel on alternators. I've replaced one that tested fine at 3 different battery test stops and 2 different bench-test machines. The symptom was constantly flickering lights. I did the big 3 upgrade, I checked all the grounds, did everything else first - but it was a bad alternator that looked ok when tested. *shrug*
 
When I shut off my truck it takes at least 30-45min for the battery voltage to come down below 12.9v.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Volt meters, even bench tests aren't the total gospel on alternators. I've replaced one that tested fine at 3 different battery test stops and 2 different bench-test machines. The symptom was constantly flickering lights. I did the big 3 upgrade, I checked all the grounds, did everything else first - but it was a bad alternator that looked ok when tested. *shrug*
Worn brushes probably... simple fix.

-Charlie
 

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