1996 4Runner Build - It's the same age as me

[Downeys4Runner]

Hey guys, just got a 1996 4Runner. It ha quite a bit of rust but thats what you get in Canada. 325000 kms on it as well but I'm not planning on putting to many on it myself. It has a locker on it that I think needs some work and has a super clean interior. It will be a fun project and i'll need lots of advice. Im 16 and so is the vehicle so a part-time budget which means a slow build. Ill be doing a lot of work on the rust soon so hopefully I'll remember to document it.

 

[02_SE_Runner]

Actually your 4runner is still older, whatever the year a car is, go back a year, that is usually how old the car is. But moving on, welcome to the board, and read up. Remember, around here, nothing stays stock.
Enjoy.
-Nate

 

[BrandonF]

As long as its been maintained somewhat properly, 325 km is nothing to be worried about

 

[4Running Daily]

Actually your 4runner is still older, whatever the year a car is, go back a year, that is usually how old the car is. But moving on, welcome to the board, and read up. Remember, around here, nothing stays stock.
Enjoy.
-Nate

Mine's a 1996, was built in March 1996 and brought home in April 1996.

 

[audiness]

hope the rust isn't too bad, we've seen a few terminal cases on this forum lately.

 

[shootmymime]

that hood doesn't look too good. on the inside B pillar it will give you a manufacture date. example 09/96 anything after (September i believe) is considered to be the next year newer. so 9/96 would be considered a 97.

this summer i plan on doing some frame rust prevention as well (mine isnt that bad).

good luck nice to have u on the page.

 

[Downeys4Runner]

Thanks guys, The rust happens to be pretty bad! It sucks but i'm debating on getting it patched to get the truck safetied or just spending my paycheck to get all the rust out. I cant drive till June so I got time. The truck has that e-locker so I think I want to keep it around. I also don't want to be the guy with the rusty a** truck in the school parking lot!

I think the best way is to fined a cheap tailgate with no rust and a working motor (mine does not) Then to get a body shop to fix all the major rust cause i know its way over my head! Then some minor stuff i'll fix by my self to save a little cash... Not sure if it will cost more for the tools though. I'll get a couple quotes and see.

A question about the e-locker. It says it will only turn on it I'm stuck and the wheels are slipping or spinning. I tried to turn it on just in my drive way and it would just flash and not engage. Do I have to bypass something or is the motor not working right?

Open to advice, Thanks

 

[Downeys4Runner]

Remember, around here, nothing stays stock.
Enjoy.
-Nate

I don't plan on keeping it stock :banana:

 

[JohnsD90]

Actually your 4runner is still older, whatever the year a car is, go back a year, that is usually how old the car is. But moving on, welcome to the board, and read up. Remember, around here, nothing stays stock.
Enjoy.
-Nate

My 97 was built in 5/97. But yes you are somewhat right, my rover was built 9/73 and is a 74, my 99 was built in 10/98.

 

[Downeys4Runner]

Ya I understand the year thing... was kind of a joke. Not so funny eh Hopefully I will be working on the truck tomorrow! arty: I'll get some pics up as soon as I gain progress!

 

[Downeys4Runner]

A small not very exciting update is that I dropped the truck off at a shop to get the alignment done. My brother thought it would be a good idea to make sure there was no frame damage because when I got the truck the steering wheel was crooked when the wheels were straight. Guy said that the people at mufflerman frigged it up when he got new wheels put on. Hopefully its all good :scared:

 

[Downeys4Runner]

Well of course there was something else wrong with it. Its to be expected but makes me sad as a new vehicle owner There was something wronfg with I believe the right side tie-rod. Something like 85$ for it, 50$ to install , and another 85$ for an alignment. Yay! Ohh well, better to be done right the first time! ound:

 

[gotopless]

Well of course there was something else wrong with it. Its to be expected but makes me sad as a new vehicle owner There was something wronfg with I believe the right side tie-rod. Something like 85$ for it, 50$ to install , and another 85$ for an alignment. Yay! Ohh well, better to be done right the first time! ound:

Tha'ts common on a northern truck. Those things rust and they cant move them to align the wheels. I had to replace my inner and outer tie rods. Also did the front sway bar links at the same time. And thats right if you're going to do a job, do it right the first time it will save you plenty of $$ in the long run

 

[Downeys4Runner]

^^ :iagree:

 

[Downeys4Runner]

Update to the build, we were trying to figure out the locker and went no where fast. Here is the link to the write up I did...

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/137715-how-do-i-check-if-i-have-power-my-e-locker.html

 

[Downeys4Runner]

So me and my brother didn't get anywhere further on the e-locker. But I did start on the rust bubbles.

First picture is the tool I started with. A regular old electrical sander. I'm not sure the grit of the paper was but it was pretty low around 80 (which is coarse) but it was taking to long!

Before I started with the grinder I used air from an air compressor to get under the bubbles and flake it off. Surprisingly it took the majority of it off so I was very impressed!

Instead of the regular sander I switched to the grinder with a hard sanding disk! It work so much faster! As you can see the rust was pretty bad so the pitting is real bad! I know this stuff is never going to go away fully so I'll probably try to get it down the best I can. Then I'll POR 15 the s*** out of it hoping for the best. I'll do some BONDO work and hope to make it as good as possible. Hopefully Plasti-dip will be in her future so it should cover well.

Any body work advice is great, Ive got A LOT of work ahead of me

 

[Downeys4Runner]

So I continued on the Rust Removal! Yay

So the first thing is the best rust/paint removal tool I have ever seen. Its this 3M thing that seems like it will suck cause its just hard plastic. But its awesome and it last longer than expected. I did the total front 4 inches of the hood. And a couple spots above the windshield and i still have 3/4 of the wheel left. At $10 its not expensive for how good it performs.

2nd thing is the large holes i have around the wheel well. I am wondering if I cut it out and weld a new piece of sheet metal in would be the best thing or to fiberglass patch it. I have no experience with either so let me know.

 

[Downeys4Runner]

[No message]

 

[1985taylor1925]

Wow, theres a lot of frame/body work to be done there. But stick with it man. Youll learn a ton and it will be worth the experience in the end. And of course the results will be worth it.

Did you have that shop change the tie rod already? Cause thats something you can do yourself and save money. Its really not a difficult fix

 

[T4R_MTL]

[No message]