2000 4wd SR5 weight distribution

davidoff

New member
Apologies if this information is readily available and I'm just not finding it...

Anyone know how the weight of a fully fueled 2000 4wd SR5 is distributed with regard to weight over the front and rear axles? I'm playing with the idea of getting a 4wd pickup for the sake of having a big open bed for hauling stuff, but traction in snow with the bed empty is a concern, and I have no idea how to gauge the difference between how my 4runner behaves in this regard, and a pickup that may have less weight over the rear axles, with an empty bed.

Thanks.
Andy
 
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Apologies if this information is readily available and I'm just not finding it...

Anyone know how the weight of a fully fueled 2000 4wd SR5 is distributed with regard to weight over the front and rear axles? I'm playing with the idea of getting a 4wd pickup for the sake of having a big open bed for hauling stuff, but traction in snow with the bed empty is a concern, and I have no idea how to gauge the difference between how my 4runner behaves in this regard, and a pickup that may have less weight over the rear axles, with an empty bed.

Thanks.
Andy

When I was shopping for a 3rd gen 4R I also test drove some 1st gen taco's. I will say the taco's were MUCH easier to spin tires in than the 4runners. I do not know if this applies to all of them or just the ones I drove.

BUT, here is how you fix that if you do want the truck. Get some 2 by 4's, like 2-4 of them. Then 3-6 PVC pipes with end caps. Lengths depend on your truck bed.
Fill the pipes up with sand and then drill holes in the 2 by 4's to hold said pipes and to keep them from rolling all over. You can add pipes in sets of 2 to add weight to the back. A pipe filled with said won't have "waves" like water wood, so I recommend sand over water.
 
To many variations just saying 4wd PU, standard cab, ext cab, double cab, short box, standard box, long, box and now throw in the mix of possible years.

I do not know what the distribution is on a SR5 but it is definitely going to have more weight bias over the rear axle than a PU.

Just a guesstimate but I would think you would need to add 200-400lbs of weight to back of said PU to equal the rear traction of your SR5 which may or may not defeat the big open box for hauling stuff, Tube sand usually comes in 60-70lb tubes for like $5ish dollars per tube but usually start splitting open after 1-3yrs depending on how they are handled left in the sun etc.

Back when all I had was 2whl PU's I did the tube sand or a couple of flat plate steel weights, Also did kind of a frame of 2X4s and filled the area in between the wheel wells with sand and capped with a sheet of plywood for cargo carrying ease.

Test drive one and see for your yourself. When I was looking at 4runners and Taco's the thing that made me go 4runner was the fact that the enclosed 4runner better suited my needs rather than a pickup unless maybe I could have found the right deal on a double cab then I might have flopped the other way either way as long as they were both 4X4 rear wheel traction didnt matter to me. I was only considering the 4runner and double cab Taco which also has a longer wheel base makeing Uturns on dirt roads more difficult and swayed me slighty towards the 4runner as well. YMMV
 
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I drove 2001 Silverado 2wd reg cab 8ft bed for 10yrs. Live in snow belt here in Canada.

The issue is if you need your bed constantly like I did. Yes 4R is better in snow in 2wd but still loosie goosie. My solution was I built forms behind wheel wells about 2-3inches lower than top of bed and about 5-6 inches shorter. I lined bedliner with oil and poured concrete. Set anchor bolts in top(but didn't ever use them). Bedliner was actually tapered enough on outside combined with ridges on bottom that concrete blocks nvr moved unless I was fishtailing & hit dry pavement and were jolted loose. I popped them in and out every spring and fall. Still had full access to my bed for full sheets of drywall, plywood etc.

We estimated the weight to be between 500-600lbs. Studded winter tires in worst possible snow storms there wasn't a 4wd that could keep up on hwy.
Not ideal if fuel mileage is an issue but this system worked amazingly.
 
Thanks for the thoughtful replies. It sounds like the gist is yes, it'll be an issue, and yes, there are things I can do, but I need to consider the utility I'm hoping to gain to understand if the tradeoff is worth it.

Thanks again.
Andy
 
I had a first gen Tacoma before moving on to a couple third gen 4Runners. The Tacoma (98 TRD) did pretty well in the snow, but it was definitely lighter in the rear than either of the 4Runners. I found that placing a little load in the bed helped with traction. To this day I prefer the 4Runner to a pick-up with it's larger, secure storage in the rear. And now with the 4Runner I use a 3500# trailer to haul large loads.
riceye-albums-ric-s-pics-picture57047-dsc00100.jpg
 
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I had a first gen Tacoma before moving on to a couple third gen 4Runners. The Tacoma (98 TRD) did pretty well in the snow, but it was definitely lighter in the rear than either of the 4Runners. I found that placing a little load in the bed helped with traction. To this day I prefer the 4Runner to a pick-up with it's larger, secure storage in the rear. And now with the 4Runner I use a 3500# trailer to haul large loads.
riceye-albums-ric-s-pics-picture57047-dsc00100.jpg
I had a 98 Tacoma myself 5 speed. Toyota recalled it and bought it back as its frame rotted.

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I've driven both a '96 Tacoma and a '00 4runner in the snow. The Tacoma in the snow in CO was horrible. Lost the back end one too many times until I loaded the bed with sand bags. Even with the sand bags the back end would slip around occasionally. The rear end of the 4Runner in the snow in Maine did pretty good. Both were 4WD. The Tacoma was manual and the 4runner was auto.
 
I drove 2001 Silverado 2wd reg cab 8ft bed for 10yrs. Live in snow belt here in Canada.

The issue is if you need your bed constantly like I did. Yes 4R is better in snow in 2wd but still loosie goosie. My solution was I built forms behind wheel wells about 2-3inches lower than top of bed and about 5-6 inches shorter. I lined bedliner with oil and poured concrete. Set anchor bolts in top(but didn't ever use them). Bedliner was actually tapered enough on outside combined with ridges on bottom that concrete blocks nvr moved unless I was fishtailing & hit dry pavement and were jolted loose. I popped them in and out every spring and fall. Still had full access to my bed for full sheets of drywall, plywood etc.

We estimated the weight to be between 500-600lbs. Studded winter tires in worst possible snow storms there wasn't a 4wd that could keep up on hwy.
Not ideal if fuel mileage is an issue but this system worked amazingly.

Did you mean to say any unloaded 4wd as my F450 4X4 plow truck gets around pretty good with a full 90 gallon auxiliary diesel tank and a pallet of side walk salt in the back riding on winter tires. :fear:
 

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