2005 V8 2UZ-FE Won’t Crank p0340 p0345 p07050

Gannz22

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p0340 p0345 cam position sensor; throwing codes for both sides usually indicates a timing issue but it would still crank, just wouldn’t start… I’m getting no crank

p07050 pending; trans range sensor

Starter relay clicks and fuel pump pumps but starter won’t crank; engine not seized

Relay good, battery good, starter good

No voltage at VVT sensor connector or PCM; good ground

VVT sensor not showing correct resistance (below 835 ohms)

NSS changed and still no crank; when in park, relay clicks and fuel pumps when key is turned… if it’s in any other gear, no click and no pump so signal is getting to the relay in park… but, there’s also no click/pump when in neutral which is odd, only in park.

I am also running the Hewitt bypass for the secondary air injection pump issue on the 2UZFE. Probably irrelevant and it works fine on all but very cold mornings, but it does tie into the starter relay and tricks the PCM so maybe after the 3-4 years I’ve been running it, somehow it fried part of the PCM (?)

Hopefully I missed something simple but, if not… buy a used PCM or send it off for diagnostics/repair? Replace the cam position sensors? Replace the VVT sensors?
 
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Started over with troubleshooting to make sure I didn't miss something... I can jump the starter relay connection and get the solenoid to engage. Still no crank. The solenoid was probably clicking the whole time but I couldn't hear it over all the other noises.

Starter has been replaced. I troubleshot it without reading the codes and everything pointed to a bad starter. Replaced it with a brand new Denso and still no crank so I read the codes and went from there. I didn't bench test it before installing but I did just bench test the old one and it engages fine.

Battery warranty expires in a month so she'll be dead soon but still reads 13 volts. Hooked up the charger and set it to '55A start' just in case and still only get a clunk out of the solenoid.

Engine can be hand cranked so it's not seized. About to tear off the intake and see what voltage I'm getting at the solenoid.
 
Have you tried pushing the little bypass on the shifter console to rule out the neutral safety switch since you say nothing happens when the neutral?
 
Have you tried pushing the little bypass on the shifter console to rule out the neutral safety switch since you say nothing happens when the neutral?

Hadn't tried that earlier but just did and no luck. Still get relay/solenoid click in park but no crank and nothing in neutral.
 
So, ended up being the battery. Voltage was good but I should have tested it further.

Still have the 0340 and 0345 codes to address... replace the camshaft position sensors or replace the variable valve timing solenoids or replace all four?

Or, inspect/clean/replace the VVT solenoid filters?... if I can find them... don't see them anywhere in the manual.
 
Sounds like it is now cranking and starting? Low battery voltage can cause various codes. Clear them and see if they come back.
 
I took the intake off to verify voltage at the starter. Everything checked out, engine not seized, and the starter is new OEM. Jumped the ignition at the starter relay terminals and starter solenoid would clunk. Figured it had to be the battery even though the voltage was good (never did a load test).

New battery. Jumped the ignition at the starter relay terminals and engine turned over. Figured problem was solved. Put everything back together and, since the fuel lines were now hooked up, turned the key figuring she'd fire up... back to square one. Same issue... starter solenoid clunk but won't turn over. Disconnected crank sensors, fuel injectors, throttle body, and all but the 6 bolts and 4 nuts holding the intake thinking maybe there's a short. Jumped the ignition at the relay terminals and same issue... clunk but no engine rotation.

Not throwing any codes.

Loosened intake manifold and propped it up a bit to rule out compression being an issue since she turned over with the intake off but that didn't change anything. Still only a clunk from the solenoid. Only other variable was the battery being disconnected for a day. Maybe that reset everything and allowed the engine to turn over at the relay box and by turning the key it triggered the issue again. Unhooked the battery for a couple hours and that didn't reset anything. Guess I'll try disconnecting the battery overnight.
 
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Pulled the intake and checked the voltage at the starter while jumping the relay... big drop.

Checked around for a loose ground and the ground bolt on the frame below the battery was loose and rusted. Replaced and secured the bolt but it didn't fix the issue.

The battery positive was clean but there was a bit of funk around the big bolt so I figured I'd clean it up and while doing that I found the small bolt securing the starter cable was loose. That was the problem.:bolt:

Checked the timing and she did jump a tooth. Replaced the belt and all good now. I thought the timing and no start issue were related but looks like they were two separate issues.

Still won't start in neutral but I'll worry about that another day.
 
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Pulled the intake and checked the voltage at the starter while jumping the relay... big drop.

Checked around for a loose ground and the ground bolt on the frame below the battery was loose and rusted. Replaced and secured the bolt but it didn't fix the issue.

The battery positive was clean but there was a bit of funk around the big bolt so I figured I'd clean it up and while doing that I found the small bolt securing the starter cable was loose. That was the problem.:bolt:

Checked the timing and she did jump a tooth. Replaced the belt and all good now. I thought the timing and no start issue were related but looks like they were two separate issues.

Still won't start in neutral but I'll worry about that another day.

You got a workout on this one! Way to stay after it and find problem.
 
Timing jumped a tooth? How is that even possible with no seized engine. This one has me stumped! Still doesn't help with your no start condition.
 

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