2007 V8 4Runner - Engine Quirk 2000-2500RPM

O

Ocean Racer

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I have been having a problem with engine/transmission performance about a year. Only in the 2000 to 2500 rpm range does this occur. No check engine lights or codes are thrown. Been to dealer several times and they have not a clue but witness the problem. Engine bogs down or hesitates/surges only in that RPM range. Otherwise runs perfectly. Mileage seems to be going down.

So far we have:
Replaced Spark Plugs,
Timing Belt
intake clean
Removed K&N intake to OEM intake
Reflashed ECU several times (no Difference)
Pulled the Traction Control connection (makes no difference)

Has Borla Catback exhaust still installed. 2 inch leveling kit, 33.2 inch General AT2 tires, stock wheels.

I am thinking it could be torque converter clutch or a Cat Convertor partly plugged up but would think it would throw a code if that was occurring. Any ideas or experience with this. Please help!
 
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I have also tried 87 to 93 octane fuel, no change. Ran 44k and bottle of injector cleaner, no difference.

I am still leaning towards exhaust or transmission problems now. The tranny flush is about 250 at Stealership, they believe it will help.

I more leaning towards gutting cats, but the Under Dog Racing Modules don't seem to be available for 2007 up. Something to do with the O2's and programing uses all 4 o2 sensors, front and rear (sometimes).
 
Bump!! Ttt

No one has any ideas?

It went back to Toyota dealership again this week. They took snapshots from the ECU while driving to send to Toyota Engineers.

The master tech is leaning towards a solenoid or torque convertor still.

Another tech at another dealer thinks problem is related to torque convertor clutches and that doing a transmission flush will help.

Hopefully I will bring closure to this problem soon and not have to through $1000+ into a new torque convertor. Gonna fix this thing hell or high water though!
 
the slight bogging

I had a slight transmission issue at one time where i felt a tiny bog or hesitation and slipping at a certain rpm when I shifted to a lower gear, I then took my 2003 V8 with 148k, then when it happened about 138k,, I changed the transmission oil and, the diffs oil, haven't had a problem since. good luck I took it to my castrol quick lube place
 
Try replacing the MAF? I've experienced certain airflow ranges to go dead on my Subaru's MAF, which greatly complicated tuning. Cleaning wasn't enough, had to be replaced.
 
Clean the MAF. KN filter tend to let small particles of dirt in and the oil in the filter can make the MAF sensor dirty. Be sure to use MAF cleaner only!
 
Check/clean the MAF first.

Do a transmission fluid exchange next.

Only mess with the transmission as a last resort.

I performed $3,500 worth or repairs to a transmission the mechanic said needed to be done to fix the problem and the end result was no change... I highly doubt the transmission needs repairs...

Sounds like they are jumping right into the most expensive repairs without first attempting the simple fixes.
 
I did the intake cleaning/MAF at Toyota and it made no difference. I also switched the K&N intake tubing back to stock air box. No difference. I could try to replace the Sensor as well.

I have gotten dealer to take readings with the Computer hooked up which they sent to Toyota Engineers for help. I believe my next move will be the solenoids and or Fluid Change. The Torque converter is more than $1,000.

Keep the ideas coming and I will report back as well.




ben550 said:
Check/clean the MAF first.

Do a transmission fluid exchange next.

Only mess with the transmission as a last resort.

I performed $3,500 worth or repairs to a transmission the mechanic said needed to be done to fix the problem and the end result was no change... I highly doubt the transmission needs repairs...

Sounds like they are jumping right into the most expensive repairs without first attempting the simple fixes.
Click to expand...
 
I can't get the dealer to even call me back about what they recommend. So with out further delay I plan to do:

1) Replace MAF sensor and put my K&N intake back on
2) Change the Transmission and Differential Fluids/Flush


And hope for the best. Quite a few Mechanics seem to think the torque converter clutches or the solenoids are giving me problems.
 
MAF sensor replaced, Front Diff/transfer case fluid changed, and did the Transmission Flush/Fluid exchange at the Stealership. $711 worth! NO CHANGE...

So next step is to change the torque convertor and possible shift solenoids. I don't want to guess what this next bill is going to be. I hope I lick this thing soon! Tired of chasing this unicorn. Been working on this nearly a year.:dammit:
 
Sorry you spent that money and it didn't fix it. When you say bogs / hesitates do the RPM's drop or do they stay steady even though you are trying to accelerate?

Are you able to catch this on video? That might help us diagnose this a little better. Also are you able to get them to print out the freeze frame data and post it here?
 
I will ask them to give me a copy. And I will try to take a video, its pretty subtle, but I am zoned in on it because of the exhaust sounds/Borla and I can feel it all the time, the guys at the dealer claim they don't feel it at all.

The RPM's do jump a little (down) maybe 100 RPM. It honestly feels like something is grabbing. So its got to be shift solenoids or torque convertor. Don't you agree? Again under hard acceleration this problem doesn't occur.

Davy180 said:
Sorry you spent that money and it didn't fix it. When you say bogs / hesitates do the RPM's drop or do they stay steady even though you are trying to accelerate?

Are you able to catch this on video? That might help us diagnose this a little better. Also are you able to get them to print out the freeze frame data and post it here?
Click to expand...
 
46runner said:
A few yes ago, my other car (not a t4r) was idling rough. My mechanic fixed it with seafoam. It's been fine since.
Click to expand...


Well, it appears my engine is tip top condition, makes good power, idles well, etc. Something is causing the RPM to jump only in the 2000 to 2500 range under load. So all indicators appear to be pointing to the driveline /Torque convertor /Clutch grabbing.

I thought it may be air/sensor related, but nothing I have done has helped.
 
Anyone else seen this problem?

I am experiencing the same thing.
This problem has stumped two shops so far.

Anyone have any feedback?

Thanks!!
Dwayne
 
Fixed it today...

New Fuel Pump... URD upgrade.... instant improvement in MPG... no more hesitation... two auto shops and dealership... no joy... thanks to this board. success.
 
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