2010 Limited with 150,000 miles

[Cox]

I am looking at a 2010 4runner limited with 150,000 miles. The carfax is showing all maintenance has been done on a regular basis. Oil changes, brakes, fluids, 90,000 service from Toyota, etc..... For those of you that own these 4runners, can I get another 50,000 miles or more out of this? I guess my question is would this be a good buy with the mileage or look elsewhere? They are asking $16,500 for it.

I appreciate the responses!

 

[Captsolo]

I have a 2005 SR5 2WD V6 with 150,000 miles. I've owned it from new. I'm in the Bahamas so 4WD is not necessary.

Check the chassis for serious rust.
Drive the car to 70 MPH.
Was it an offroad vehicle? Take off $3,000
Original tranny? Was it serviced (5 quarts)? Flushed?
Engine check lite ever come on - and get codes with a CReader (were they erased).

I expect I could get 300,000 out of my 2005. Mine has never had so much as a check engine lite or kick a code in 15 years for a Creader.

How's the coolant and HG?

Bring a good mechanic with you before you buy to check out the runner? :uzi:

 

[4RunnerL2016]

Enjoy! My 2010 was phenomenal and never needed a thing. I got rid of it at just under 150K for a newer model, but trust me, that thing has another 50-100K in it no problem. Sounds like you've checked all service records and that's huge. On top of that, just be really really vigilant with your eyes and ears when test driving the car; these 4R's have a way of telling you that something isn't right way ahead of time, you just have to listen. Also make sure that you put the car in 4H and 4L, then make sure it shifts in and out of park smoothly afterwards (there is a position sensor that gets a bit weird as the car gets older. Nothing major, just a quick swap, but better to know ahead of time).

Best of luck!

 

[ASUMTNEER]

You'll get waaaay more than 50k more out of it if you want to. These will go well over 300k if maintained properly, and probably even if you fail to maintain them. My only advice would be to check for rust. $16,500 sounds like a good starting price if it's nice. Good luck.

 

[John in NC]

In those services is there a trans drain/ fill? Price seems a bit high for the year/ mileage but yeah if it hasn't been ragged out and the underside isn't crusty you can get tons more miles out of it.
Might be worth having a mechanic check it out.
If you take it on an extended test drive, reset the MPG calculator and see how it ends up after you've driven it a while in a mix of city/ highway driving. If that's important to you.

 

[Jetboy]

My experience has been that 4Runners/Tacomas usually will need rear wheel bearings between 190-210k miles. And for some bizarre reason in almost all of them I've owned they both went out within about 10k miles of each other. These may end up needing front wheel bearings too.

Otherwise - I'd bet you're probably good for another 150k with normal maintenance. I wouldn't be concerned unless there's some obvious damage or unusual repair history, flood damage, etc.

 

[Nuke]

My 2008 Sport 4WD has 170,000 miles and still going strong. I sold my 2000 T4R in like-new condition with 152,000 miles on the clock and a 1990 T4R that had 215,000 miles on it when I sold it to a friend who put another 150,000 miles on it. I also just bought a '19 TRD ORP but that's just getting christened.

And I tow with all my T4Rs.

Does that help?

Oh, and I sold an '88 Camry with 295,000 on it. My youngest son totaled a '98 Camry with 202,000 miles and I sold an '81 Celica with 178,000 miles.

 

[Jivewalker]

My experience has been that 4Runners/Tacomas usually will need rear wheel bearings between 190-210k miles. And for some bizarre reason in almost all of them I've owned they both went out within about 10k miles of each other. These may end up needing front wheel bearings too.

Otherwise - I'd bet you're probably good for another 150k with normal maintenance. I wouldn't be concerned unless there's some obvious damage or unusual repair history, flood damage, etc.

Not to hijack, but fronts usually go before rears. What were the symptoms of your rears being bad? I just did my fronts at 180k but think I can hear a bearing noise when going over slight height variations (humps) in the road. I feel/here it on the down side. Thought it might be something in the diff but could be a rear wheel bearing I suppose, but would be surprised. Might even be a carrier bearing. Drives me nuts.

 

[Jetboy]

Not to hijack, but fronts usually go before rears. What were the symptoms of your rears being bad? I just did my fronts at 180k but think I can hear a bearing noise when going over slight height variations (humps) in the road. I feel/here it on the down side. Thought it might be something in the diff but could be a rear wheel bearing I suppose, but would be surprised. Might even be a carrier bearing. Drives me nuts.

The early sign is that gear lube will being to leak down the inside of the rear tire. Generally it would be going through the drum brake on older models.

What it means is that the axle gear lube has passed through the bearing seals. The rear bearings are sealed, so once gear lube has passed through the rear wheel bearing, the bearing is shot. You could potentially seal the rear axle to keep the gear lube inside the axle, but that would not solve the problem that the rear wheel bearing is no longer lubricated by bearing grease as it should be. The result will eventually be that the rear tire would fall off. When it gets bad - you can lift the rear axle and feel that the rear wheel is loose.

 

[Jivewalker]

The early sign is that gear lube will being to leak down the inside of the rear tire. Generally it would be going through the drum brake on older models.

What it means is that the axle gear lube has passed through the bearing seals. The rear bearings are sealed, so once gear lube has passed through the rear wheel bearing, the bearing is shot. You could potentially seal the rear axle to keep the gear lube inside the axle, but that would not solve the problem that the rear wheel bearing is no longer lubricated by bearing grease as it should be. The result will eventually be that the rear tire would fall off. When it gets bad - you can lift the rear axle and feel that the rear wheel is loose.

Thanks! don't have that leak so can rule the rears out for now!

 

[repo]

I'd have no problems with that and expect to get another 150k out if it. But work on my own 4runners so dont usually pay labor on stuff unless it involves pulling out the transmission or engine. I'd offer 15k (including the doc fees and other BS) and walk if they dont take it, assuming it doesnt have any repairs needing done. Most people shopping for a 5th gen limited are scared of that much miles. It's harder to get a loan for high miles. It's cold and there's less buyers right now. The subprime auto bubble is collapsing. Go early in the morning they are more likely to say yes to an offer first thing.

If it's highway miles that makes a big difference to me on how desirable it is.

Here's a good vid on inspecting it: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=yK7MXNaNGho

 

[repo]

The early sign is that gear lube will being to leak down the inside of the rear tire. Generally it would be going through the drum brake on older models.

What it means is that the axle gear lube has passed through the bearing seals. The rear bearings are sealed, so once gear lube has passed through the rear wheel bearing, the bearing is shot. You could potentially seal the rear axle to keep the gear lube inside the axle, but that would not solve the problem that the rear wheel bearing is no longer lubricated by bearing grease as it should be. The result will eventually be that the rear tire would fall off. When it gets bad - you can lift the rear axle and feel that the rear wheel is loose.

Was going to say the same. Rear diff breathers should be PM but nobody checks them and the clog and blow gear oil through the bearings. I have 250k on my 3rd gen front bearings. Rears were still good at 200k when I noticed the notorious rear axle seal leak so replaced them when I did that job because of what you mention.

 

[Horsethief]

I wouldn't worry about the mileage, but damn that price!

I guess it's good they hold their value so well, I'm thinking I may want to unload my 13 Trail, and being 3 years newer with 55k less miles, I guess I should be able to get close to 20 for it.

 

[samlarson]

I'd have no problems with that and expect to get another 150k out if it. But work on my own 4runners so dont usually pay labor on stuff unless it involves pulling out the transmission or engine. I'd offer 15k (including the doc fees and other BS) and walk if they dont take it, assuming it doesnt have any repairs needing done. Most people shopping for a 5th gen limited are scared of that much miles. It's harder to get a loan for high miles. It's cold and there's less buyers right now. The subprime auto bubble is collapsing. Go early in the morning they are more likely to say yes to an offer first thing. Chekc out also this info on short term investments 12 Best High Yield Short-Term Investments

If it's highway miles that makes a big difference to me on how desirable it is.

Here's a good vid on inspecting it: How To Properly Inspect a Car for Highway miles! - YouTube

what do you mean when you say that subprime auto bubble is collapsing?