2014 4Runner Rear Storage Drawers

sch0enne

New member
Hi Everyone,



I thought I would make a DIY thread that follows me building my rear cargo drawers for my 2015 4Runner. I love the idea of the truck vaults & ARB drawers available but I hate the price tag. $1,500 is just too much for me to Justify spending on that right now.



When thinking about doing this, these are the main points that I want to accomplish:



-Have out of sight storage for emergency & other items

- For it to be fairly theft proof

- Because my 4Runner is so new I wanted to make it as clean and professional looking as possible

-Use the space as best as possible



I am far from a carpenter and usually shy away from projects that require square edges but I wanted to give this a go. I chose to go with 3/4" Spruce plywood (I wanted to use Maple but it was double the cost) In total I will use about 2.5 sheets. I ordered some 24" full extension drawer slides from Amazon that have a 100lb capacity. I am still trying to find the right locking latches locally but may have to order them online.



I started by removing the 3rd row. It took about 45min and unfortunately I didn't document that part. Its fairly easy though, all it requires is a 10mm and 15mm socket. I packed my rear seats up and put them in the crawl space for the future.





82b601601bc273dfd53066bcdd6b1bb6.jpg


Next I started making the frame for the drawers. I am making it 38" by 38" and the sides have been cut to 10". I used 1"5/8 drywall screws countersunk to secure it all together. Each drawer will be about 17" wide and 36" deep.




ff317402b1dee366769a63f9976a38c4.jpg
81576543b9df26c27c46229c72d14675.jpg


Built the drawers using the same 3/4 plywood and left 1/2" on each side to make room for the slides.

e0349f0ae8c098af7d6eaa1491bdc8d4.jpg


Made the drawer faces and cut in the holes for the latches. (Crooked in the pic but I will adjust.

06c3c2a2d8d64eddc14c7c24f2192f6a.jpg


Next I finally did a test fit and I am very happy with it. It does sit a bit higher than I thought it would buy it's still okay by me. I will still retain the two small cubbies in each wheel arch.

b4ced4a0bcc9481cefd442b34b2ae346.jpg
52fc9ecd8541c283587c54b1bae0318a.jpg


Finally got it finished today!
c04d678db87cc27430973eaa58841e43.jpg
2bc63f79ae09695378bfc5f4d363f7f7.jpg
b26e1668f37b5f0b7c6e2a2a2c97e2db.jpg
8e3fba23ed86954ce1877bc68e9f73f6.jpg
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
I'm definitely interested in where you end up with this. Are you going to try and match the top of your box with the top of the 2nd row when folded?
 
Very cool, I have the rear sliding tray and am toying around with taking it out in order to do something with more storage. Sub'd to see how this turns out.
 
What are the overall dimensions of the area where you removed the 3rd row?


With the back seats in their furthest back position you have about 39" to the gate and it's about 42" wide to the wheel arches. Then you have those small little pockets on each side.
 
I am renting a router on Thursday to round all visible edges. After that I will get it all painted up, carpet the top, mount the drawers and a few other small things and I should be good to go!
 
I am renting a router on Thursday to round all visible edges. After that I will get it all painted up, carpet the top, mount the drawers and a few other small things and I should be good to go!

I suggest you try rounding the edges on a sample of wood of the same thickness and type. It looks like plywood. Plywood will not round out well. The edges will splinter and fray, both at the time its cut and later. This would work on solid wood but not so well on plywood.:ohwell:
 
I suggest you try rounding the edges on a sample of wood of the same thickness and type. It looks like plywood. Plywood will not round out well. The edges will splinter and fray, both at the time its cut and later. This would work on solid wood but not so well on plywood.:ohwell:


I was wondering the same thing. I saw a guy build one for his FJ and he rounded the edges ever so slightly. He used maple plywood though. Not sure if that would make a difference?
 
I suggest you try rounding the edges on a sample of wood of the same thickness and type. It looks like plywood. Plywood will not round out well. The edges will splinter and fray, both at the time its cut and later. This would work on solid wood but not so well on plywood.:ohwell:

Totally agree with DesertCanyon. You could consider using a cabinet rasp for rounding the edges and either a palm sander or sanding block to smooth out the edges. The the Router is something I'd avoid using with plywood. Whatever method you choose, you'll get better results if you fill all the voids (cavities) with a sandable wood filler before starting any shaping. This will minimize chipping, chunking, etc.. And it will help keep your edges smooth afterwards.
 
I am thinking to do something similar when I will my 4R, but I think I will remove also one of the second row seat to allow for one longer drawer. Do you see an issue with this idea?

Can you post a picture with the second row seats folded? Curious to see if there is a way to sleep in the truck with these drawers.
 
Removing a second row should be fine. There are so seat airbags so I don't see an issue.

Mine is a bit higher than the second row, but I am going to build a drop in board to level it for sleeping
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,309
Messages
3,554,075
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top