barnett468
New member
Cant start a new thread
Anyone know how to reach a moderator so I can start a new thread?
Anyone know how to reach a moderator so I can start a new thread?
2nd gen 3.0 challenge- failure code 25
- Thread starter kc15842
- Start date
barnett468
New member
Code and fuel system help needed
I have a 1900 4runner sr5 5 speed and it has a check engine lite and it flashes 1 5 2 5 and the smog guy isn't sure if that is a 25 and 52 code or a 15 and 52 code etc.
It hesitates and surges slightly under acceleration until 4800 rpm at which time it runs properly until 5300 where i stop revving it.
it idles fine and never misses and runs smooth if you sit in it in neutral and rev it up
any way to determine exactly what codes are showing by this flashing sequence?
it has 31" tires and is pathetically sow to accelerate . is this normal?
any ideas what the prob might be?
any way to test a throttle body to determine if it is not working properly?
thanks in advance for any help
,
I have a 1900 4runner sr5 5 speed and it has a check engine lite and it flashes 1 5 2 5 and the smog guy isn't sure if that is a 25 and 52 code or a 15 and 52 code etc.
It hesitates and surges slightly under acceleration until 4800 rpm at which time it runs properly until 5300 where i stop revving it.
it idles fine and never misses and runs smooth if you sit in it in neutral and rev it up
any way to determine exactly what codes are showing by this flashing sequence?
it has 31" tires and is pathetically sow to accelerate . is this normal?
any ideas what the prob might be?
any way to test a throttle body to determine if it is not working properly?
thanks in advance for any help
,
Once you have inserted the wire in the TE1 and E1 connectors turn the ignition key to on. If there is a failure code or codes the engine light will begin to flash. The codes will repeat so you can take your time to watch the sequence of flashes. It is pretty easy to pick up the sequence and the longer gap in time between codes.
I finished the proper KS replacement. A bit of a job to replace the sensor. It started right up and I'll take it for a ride in a bit to see if the dreaded 52 is history.
Question, the plenum mounting bolts include 4 long threaded bolts which in my opinion felt like they were stretching trying to obtain the 13ftlbs of torque. Has anyone else experienced this and does anyone offer studs?
Question, the plenum mounting bolts include 4 long threaded bolts which in my opinion felt like they were stretching trying to obtain the 13ftlbs of torque. Has anyone else experienced this and does anyone offer studs?
Wow,checked the original knock sensor in my remote setup and I didn't trigger the 52. Connected the engine wire harness pin 5 and once again I have triggered the fault code. Damn. I absolutely have continuity from the sensor to the ECU, what the heck. I guess my next option is to remove the engine harness and remove the shielded cable and replace with the wire I've been using from the remote setup.
This 52 is a pain. I hate the idea of taking this thing apart again and replacing the knock sensor with a new one. In my opinion it runs strong and I don't hear or feel anything in the engine when running. The timing is dead nuts 10 degrees. I guess I can try backing it down a few degrees.
I'm open to ideas from the experts.
I'm open to ideas from the experts.
mholme
Member
If you don't want to tear it down, just live with it until you're motivated again. It's not hurting anything other than gas mileage. You may be needing to changing plugs and oxygen sensors sooner. I have rewired mine a few times with varying degrees of success. The code always eventually comes back. The only thing left to do for me is replace the knock sensor itself, which I'm in no rush to do. My truck runs fine, cruises all day long at 75mph and I manage 14 mpg. That's about what my V8 Audi gets so I'm used to it.
I just finished the engine rebuild, added the manual trans and went thru both the front and rear diffs. I'll be getting the front end aligned so I'll get a good chance to take it on a longer run but it seems to cruise fine. The remote setup works for me but not for California emissions. The tech asked me what it was so I told him and he failed me. It sucks going thru all of this work to have this expensive sensor not to mention location kick my ass. I hate to have this issue hanging over the truck.
I am planning on driving it to Kansas in a few weeks to hand it off to my young soldier.
Thanks for the feedback
I am planning on driving it to Kansas in a few weeks to hand it off to my young soldier.
Thanks for the feedback
128keaton
New member
Not sure if it matters, honestly, but if you've done a new OEM sensor, and rerun a new wire, and only grounded it on the ECU end, then it might just be your ECU. Also, I think stock timing is 12*
128keaton
New member
I found mine on e-bay for $50Well finally resolved code 52. I purchased new shielded cable and bought a new Toyota connector and with terminals ends from a donor harness made a new cable. From the connector under the throttle body to the ecu. Finally no 52. Purchased a new California legal Cat so I hope I'm ready for the 2nd smog test. The first test failed visual for the cat and the remote KS and the engine light, code 71. I checked the egr system and vacuum routing and all appears good. Code cleared and I've run it under a heavy load and can't get a new 71. Need some luck with the smog inspection, no pass no registration.
