2nd gen 3vze water pump

[mike16889]

Hi. I have a 94 3vze 4runner that im about to do a major service on and i am trying to figure out if i can use the water pump with the oil cooler outlet even tho i have no oil cooler. Can i just cap it off?

When looking the ones without the outlet are almost twice as much probably becouse of the rarity?

Im doing fuel filter, water pump, timing belt, pullys, plugs, leads, cap, rotor, pcv and rocker cover gaskets. Anything else i should do? Its done 280,000km or 174,000m and i think it has been a bit neglected. Ive had it for 6months.

 

[LedFloyd900]

Hi. I have a 94 3vze 4runner that im about to do a major service on and i am trying to figure out if i can use the water pump with the oil cooler outlet even tho i have no oil cooler. Can i just cap it off?

When looking the ones without the outlet are almost twice as much probably becouse of the rarity?

Im doing fuel filter, water pump, timing belt, pullys, plugs, leads, cap, rotor, pcv and rocker cover gaskets. Anything else i should do? Its done 280,000km or 174,000m and i think it has been a bit neglected. Ive had it for 6months.

I don't see why it wouldn't work, but I'd wait for KidV or someone with more experience to give you a more definite answer. Also while you're in there I'd check the valve lash. Bunch of YouTube videos on how to do this

 

[mike16889]

Suppose i should look at doing something with the valves. It smokes alittle when you first start it after its been sitting a few days. The reason im getting new valve cover gaskets is i have a slow oil leak on both heads and it seems the perfect time to fix it.

Thanx for the reply.

 

[LedFloyd900]

Oh, and if I was you, since you'll be removing your maze of vacuum hoses anyway, I'd clean out both upper and lower intakes with some brake clean, mine were pretty gunked up last time I checked, and if you DO do that, while the lower intake is off, look into replacing your knock sensor wire. They get real brittle and go to crap, and may cause it to start throwing codes. I got mine off eBay for like $20

 

[mike16889]

I was planning on giving the intake a good clean anyway as its not running the best and fuel consumption is quite high.

 

[gtgt_bangbang]

manifold expectations.

we are talking a doing a Real Clean. My 120K upper manifold was ridiculously coked up, I mean massive quantities black ooky crumbly scale.

No way wanted to trash the parts washer with that and hose in the yard wasnt cutting it. Theres a furniture stripper in town that I have used to decoke certain parts in their hot tank but its hit or miss if they take it.

I sprayed various combos of paint stripper and de greasers down there, a toilet brush fits right down the central throat, but the side & plenums are pretty inaccessible. Paint stripper is often a great carbon remover ...


Why is that so nasty up there ?
the only thinks I came up with were possibly the cold injector has been leaking fuel for years or the ECU is really really proud of that component any runs it all the time. Or the EGR is delivering really sooty vapors

I wonder if its needed in in the moderate climate this rig will rest in.
At the very least I may put a valve that shuts off fuel to the Cold Start Injector to just shut it off if the truck is starting with out it.

 

[mike16889]

I was planning to do a good clean on it and use a product called shellitte (not sure if thats how its spelt) its petrolium based and used for degreasing metal surfaces for paint. It evaporates quite quick which is handy. I used it to clean the head and block of a car i did the head gasket on. Was planning on buying a cheap bottle cleaning brush.

Any one know if i can use the water pump with the oil cooler outlet on an engine without the oil cooler.

 

[KidVermicious]

I I'd wait for KidV or someone with more experience

Bolding mine .

I don't see any reason you couldn't cap that off and run with it, but I'm not an expert.

 

[mike16889]

So is that the only diffrence between the 2?

 

[Scoooooch]

I replace one on my 89 pickup years ago, I had no oil cooler either and just jammed a rubber stopper in there, ran it that way for years no leaks no problem.

I just replaced the water pump on my 94 T4R, same thing no oil cooler but I still had a hose attached to the bypass, I would assume for the rear seat heater.

You're fine to get the water pump with the bypass and plug it, much cheaper too.

EDIT Just noticed you've got a 4Runner too, if you have a rear heater you've probably got a hose attached to the bypass. Either way you're good to go.

 

[mike16889]

Thanx for the reply. makes it alot easier and cheaper. I do have a 4runner but as far as I know none of the Australian spec runners had the rear seat heater. im going to do a compression check before i order any parts to make sure its worth spending the money. if not there is a v8 soarer down the street for sale i may end up doing an engine swap.

 

[crash813]

Waterpump works fine, I have one on my '89 which didn't have the cooler. Just cap it off. The cabin heater doesn't come off the water pump at all. That junction is up near the firewall.

 

[gtgt_bangbang]

mikes truck

see no reason the cooler-style water pump wont work in a non-cooler engine.

Capping off the port easy. and do get something that CAPS off the tube, they make blind cap like that, I dont like the 'jam a rubber cork up it' idea as there there is some 10~15 psi behind it - I want something hose clamp secured, not hanging on by a fingernail .

dont have my truck in front of me, where is the return leg of that oil cooler path?

~~~


I dont know if you want to go as far as a preemptory head gasket, but you might consider it.

Saw your comment on smoking start ups;
although you can do valve stem seals to some engines WITH the head on (typically uses air pressure thru spark plug hole to keep valves in place while springs removed ) I dont recall a spring remover tool that would fit around the 3vz valve springs due to the tight space in valve spring well. possibly the FSM implies you can do seals with heads on but ??

If you check / adjust the valve gaps ( good advice ) a couple things I came across;

dont be shy about targeting high end of spec, particularly on 5 & 6 exhaust, to avoid a leaky valve when hot, seems like good advice .

A little blast of air pressure will help dislodge the shim which is hydraulically stuck to the lifter body (rubber tipped gun aimed thru notch in body & under shim will flip them boys out in short order.) You still need some sort special tool to depress valve under cam to slip shims in & out. I have a ton of good cond shims in several thicknesses if you need set up pieces, cheap. Stdealers get 7 to 15 per shim, I shimt you not.


Wrap / dont wrap exhaust debate rages on; while I dont see need or benefit to WRAP whole exhaust or cross over, I do intend a couple strategic extra insulators at the hottest spots. Exhaust manifold located very close to head at #6 on inner/under side of manif, looks to be the location of many head gasket problems. I will be using parts of an old exhaust gasket ( the stainless multi layer between the head & manif) to make an additional radiation shield between the hot spot. Might be able to rivet the new piece to the regular gasket.

If you take off the ex manifolds, note the gasket location - I've been looking at a few trucks lately to re-learn how the damn thing is put together , and several of those gaskets have been installed swapped L & R. There are even write ups in here that show the gaskets swapped. The LONGER gasket goes on passenger side ( to shield 5 plug from manifold) NOT on driver side to shield #1 plug from ... nothing.