3.4 Liter V6 5VZ-FE Valve Cover Gaskets How-To Video

[mtbtim]

Hello Fellow 3rd Gen Enthusiasts,

[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I put together a comprehensive video on how to perform the valve cover gasket replacement and other items associated with this repair like replacing the cam plugs, replacing the spark tube seals and re-sealing the 4 half moons on the heads. We also cover cleaning the throttle body and cleaning the MAF sensor.

We realize it's a long video but we figured anyone wanting to tackle this job would appreciate the level of detail we're offering.

We have both benefited from good write-ups and videos ourselves so we're just trying to make our own contribution to the Do-It-Youself mechanics out there.

If you have any questions, please ask. If you have any comments on how you like the video or how we can do a better job in certain areas, please let us know.

Here's the video:

 

[OldManKamps]

Wow this is fantastic!! What a helpful video guys!

 

[mtbtim]

By the way, [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] gets all the credit for the video production. My main contribution was the knowledge on how to do the job since I did it a couple weeks before on my 2000 SR5 4x4.

 

[Hephaes7us]

Nice video! I have to do this soon so I'll definitely be using this.

 

[cutlass]

This is great information! I need to do this myself since I have leaky valve covers. Will do once it warms up.

 

[technodrive]

nice, i did these jobs about 2 years ago but im getting seepage so ill be watching your video and investigating tomorrow when i do the supercharger install

 

[mtbtim]

After watching the video again, I realized I forgot to mention a couple things. In the beginning at 3:42 play time, I mention removing a fuel harness off the lower plenum on the driver side. You also need to disconnect the fuel line at one point whether it's the connection near the driver side fender or one of the connections at the metal harness that attaches to the lower plenum. It's necessary to disconnect because that fuel line will make it very difficult to remove the driver side valve cover if you don't.

Another thing regarding the driver side is the clamp that attaches to the upper plenum that I mention at 3:50 play time. On my 2000, I didn't have to do anything else other than remove that top bolt to free the upper plenum. On [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] 2002, I had to loosen a lower bolt that attaches that clamp to the motor so we could move it around to get the driver side valve cover out.

 

[NJT4R]

Nice job on the maintenance and for going the extra mile, or, rather, 10 miles, to document it in the video for all of us. I hope to be able to pass it forward one day.

 

[2old2soon]

Amazingly useful info and video. It's always nice to tag along behind someone who knows what they are doing. Thanks very much.

 

[jusgroovin]

Thank you! Awesome job!

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

I love how you sped up the video for all "non-sense" actions. For example... you would say that you were about to remove 6 bolts, but we didn't need to sit there and watch you twist off 6 bolts. The video sped up through it, to get to the next part. Hugely helpful.

 

[mtbtim]

I love how you sped up the video for all "non-sense" actions. For example... you would say that you were about to remove 6 bolts, but we didn't need to sit there and watch you twist off 6 bolts. The video sped up through it, to get to the next part. Hugely helpful.

[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] did a really good job on the video. The dude has skills. I'm not technologically advanced enough to pull something like that off.

 

[amalik]

[MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION],

Do you recommend painters tape as the easiest one to get on and off hoses while labeling them? I don't want something that gets too sticky on the rubber hoses and lines etc.

 

[mtbtim]

[MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION],

Do you recommend painters tape as the easiest one to get on and off hoses while labeling them? I don't want something that gets too sticky on the rubber hoses and lines etc.

Painters tape would work but the only problem I could see is the tape falling off the connections or hoses because it's a very light adhesive. I think regular duct tape might be better and you would probably only have to worry about leaving adhesive on your hoses and connections if you left it on there for a long time. Plus, unless your engine is spotless, all your hoses are going to have a little dirt on them and the adhesive isn't going to stick really positively anyway. Now, I probably wouldn't recommend Gorilla tape because that stuff is pretty sticky. Even if you left a little adhesive residue, I don't think it would be a big deal. I just didn't want any residue on the intake manifold and the painters tape worked great for that.

Let me know how the job went for you and any constructive criticism on the video. [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] plan on doing other repair videos and we would like to hear how we can make them better.

 

[shahsmerdis]

Thanks so much for the video guys, I need to go do this at some point. Looks like this gives me the courage to do it myself.

edit what do you paint the valve cover with?

 

[mtbtim]

Thanks so much for the video guys, I need to go do this at some point. Looks like this gives me the courage to do it myself.

edit what do you paint the valve cover with?

Hey, this is exactly why we did this video. To give others a good tutorial to follow so it makes the job doable for a lot of people. I labored on the decision to do this job for around 6 months debating if I should pay someone to do it, or take on the challenge. I'm glad I finally sacked up and went for it. Labor intensive for sure but not very technical.

[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] chose a gloss black engine paint. If he had to do it again, he would have chosen a flat black because the valve covers looks wet with the gloss paint. I've seen pictures of engines with red valve covers and plenums and that looks pretty damn cool. But, that's just all fluff and didn't want to take the extra time to paint mine. Just cleaned them up pretty good and slapped them back on.

Good luck with doing yours. Just take your time, take notes, and label hose and electrical connections. An inch pound torque wrench is handy to have, but I didn't use one for mine. I just tightened the various bolts and nuts down like I've always done paying attention to the bolt or nut size and using the right amount of leverage and force to tighten but not strip or break anything. If you don't own an inch pound torque wrench, check this one out. I found it on Amazon. It gets good reviews and so far I've been happy with mine. Snap-on Industrial Brand CDI Torque 2502MRPH 3/8-Inch Drive Adjustable Micrometer Torque Wrench, Torque Range 30 to 250-Inch-Pounds - - Amazon.com

 

[golfzerodelta]

Damn, wish I had remembered to check T4R yesterday before I went ahead and did this! This video would have saved me a lot of trouble - I was referencing the FSM, 2-3 threads, and a couple of Youtube vids all at the same time in the garage.

Great video that has the *entire* process. Most threads or videos have the small things left out because they assume the reader has a basic understanding of the insides of their vehicles, and make it a real pain for those (myself included) that have no/limited practical automotive service experience. That's why I had to cross-reference multiple sources, but this would have taken care of it all in one shot.

 

[mtbtim]

Damn, wish I had remembered to check T4R yesterday before I went ahead and did this! This video would have saved me a lot of trouble - I was referencing the FSM, 2-3 threads, and a couple of Youtube vids all at the same time in the garage.

Great video that has the *entire* process. Most threads or videos have the small things left out because they assume the reader has a basic understanding of the insides of their vehicles, and make it a real pain for those (myself included) that have no/limited practical automotive service experience. That's why I had to cross-reference multiple sources, but this would have taken care of it all in one shot.

Sorry you missed our video. I guess since it's so new and doesn't have that many views yet, it's low on the search algorithm for google and other search engines. I did a search on YouTube and I'm able to find our video that way.

I had the same experience as you when I first did the job. I looked at a couple videos, write-ups, and also the FSM and then finally went for it. We wanted a comprehensive video tutorial showing all aspects of the repair. The videos that say they're going to take something off the engine and then the next shot is with the part out without showing how they did it are frustrating. We knew our video would be longer than most but believed people wouldn't mind the length if it gave them all the information they needed to get the job done right.

Anyway, glad you got the job done.

 

[shahsmerdis]

Hey, this is exactly why we did this video. To give others a good tutorial to follow so it makes the job doable for a lot of people. I labored on the decision to do this job for around 6 months debating if I should pay someone to do it, or take on the challenge. I'm glad I finally sacked up and went for it. Labor intensive for sure but not very technical.

[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] chose a gloss black engine paint. If he had to do it again, he would have chosen a flat black because the valve covers looks wet with the gloss paint. I've seen pictures of engines with red valve covers and plenums and that looks pretty damn cool. But, that's just all fluff and didn't want to take the extra time to paint mine. Just cleaned them up pretty good and slapped them back on.

Good luck with doing yours. Just take your time, take notes, and label hose and electrical connections. An inch pound torque wrench is handy to have, but I didn't use one for mine. I just tightened the various bolts and nuts down like I've always done paying attention to the bolt or nut size and using the right amount of leverage and force to tighten but not strip or break anything. If you don't own an inch pound torque wrench, check this one out. I found it on Amazon. It gets good reviews and so far I've been happy with mine. Snap-on Industrial Brand CDI Torque 2502MRPH 3/8-Inch Drive Adjustable Micrometer Torque Wrench, Torque Range 30 to 250-Inch-Pounds - - Amazon.com

Thank you again, that is very welcoming. I don't quiet have a garage to do this, and our socket set is scattered in 10 different bins, so might just get a new set of sockets if i do this. I am thinking of getting an inch pound wrench anyway so i can get by for a little. I know you get what you paid for but 130 dollars for a inch pound wrench is very much over budget, I know snap on is quality though..

what burns me the most is 2 years ago toyota did this and my dad never checked to see if the problem was fixed. I am going to give them a call and see if I can strike a deal. we only put 5-10k miles since then, so 90% sure it was a mistake on their end.

Unless they never cleaned the valve cover in the first place.. but when i go wipe around the valve cover, especially at the half moon in the back. or that circle cam seal? (Forgot the name) Looks like there is fresh amber of oil..

Thanks again

 

[mtbtim]

Thank you again, that is very welcoming. I don't quiet have a garage to do this, and our socket set is scattered in 10 different bins, so might just get a new set of sockets if i do this. I am thinking of getting an inch pound wrench anyway so i can get by for a little. I know you get what you paid for but 130 dollars for a inch pound wrench is very much over budget, I know snap on is quality though..

what burns me the most is 2 years ago toyota did this and my dad never checked to see if the problem was fixed. I am going to give them a call and see if I can strike a deal. we only put 5-10k miles since then, so 90% sure it was a mistake on their end.

Unless they never cleaned the valve cover in the first place.. but when i go wipe around the valve cover, especially at the half moon in the back. or that circle cam seal? (Forgot the name) Looks like there is fresh amber of oil..

Thanks again

If you don't have one already, get yourself one of the lighted mirrors with the telescoping handle so you can easily see what it looks like on the rear of the heads where the cam plugs and rear half-moons are. If it looks wet below either of those and not wet above them, they're most likely the cause of your leak. I don't think everyone who does this job replaces the cam plugs and reseals the half-moons. If you have the original paperwork for the job, you can see if they charged you for the cam plugs. And, there's the spark plug tube seals too that I imagine aren't always changed by people doing this job.

If it's hard to confirm where the leak is on the back of the heads, wipe it down really good and then check in a few days to see if more oil has seeped out. Maybe then you can say with some certainty where it's leaking.