3.4 Supercharger on my local CL
- Thread starter Brutus
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I'm assuming this is it: Toyota Tacoma 3.4 TRD Supercharger
downpour11
New member
I say use your $$$ for the SC.
Scotty_h
New member
Alright, found this thread with concerns of putting a SC on a high mileage vehicle...
-RUNNER UP " generally speaking supercharging an aging motor is not a good idea, as it introduces forces that its not use to, which can in extreme situations, cause complete failure. now if you wanted to do it RIGHT, and you just HAD TO HAVE a SC, get the fuel upgrades from URD (around 1k) the tranny upgrade from ITP (around 750) and wait until your current motor dies and then when its rebuilt strap a SC on it then. "
I will roll over 270 with my upcoming oil change... plan on driving this one till it don't work no mo, then purchasing another. I know lifing may cause some of the same stresses, but I'm more confident that she can handle a lift than a SC...
Thoughts amgios?
-by the way, message pending on dude's voicemail.
-RUNNER UP " generally speaking supercharging an aging motor is not a good idea, as it introduces forces that its not use to, which can in extreme situations, cause complete failure. now if you wanted to do it RIGHT, and you just HAD TO HAVE a SC, get the fuel upgrades from URD (around 1k) the tranny upgrade from ITP (around 750) and wait until your current motor dies and then when its rebuilt strap a SC on it then. "
I will roll over 270 with my upcoming oil change... plan on driving this one till it don't work no mo, then purchasing another. I know lifing may cause some of the same stresses, but I'm more confident that she can handle a lift than a SC...
Thoughts amgios?
-by the way, message pending on dude's voicemail.
rideexileex
Senior Member
IPT upgrade is debatable...
But read:
"belt, plate with idler pulley"
^ Means no dynamic tensioner?
But read:
"belt, plate with idler pulley"
^ Means no dynamic tensioner?
Scotty_h
New member
Yeah man, I figured if it was less than 50K miles I would offer him around 800. Pretty firm on keeping it well under 1K since I would instantly need the 7th injector kit.
Ridexile- not sure about the settup and what he is describing. I would figure that the idler would be attached to the plate described unless I am missing something. I was curious about him just saying pulley, but it is craigslist. A simple question about 1 or 2 pulleys would suffice. We are talking about the same thing right?
-No one has concerns about the 270K miles on the engine prior to the upgrade? It does run like a champ.
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Dous
New member
I don't know how anyone has a S/C without transmission VB work. Mine started slipping within 10 hard pulls...it was flawless before hand
Now I drive it however I want
Brilliant
New member
Thoughts: light on technical understanding of FI, engines, and material mechanics.
None of that **** is required. Buy the SC and install it.
like rip said though, probably not for 1.2K.
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Scotty_h
New member
Been waiting for someone to come in and say just that very thing. Sweet action
Buy the supercharger if you want to supercharge. It's a great deal and they're getting hard to find.
However, I don't fully agree that an aging motor is vulnerable to being exploderated by boost... if you're the cautious type: a leakdown test should tell you alot about the condition of your rings and valves. If you pass a leakdown test with flying colours, boost away. If your rings are bad, boost will probably fix them for you by blowing chunks of said rings into the oil, and likely some piston pieces for good measure.
I fully disagree to just slapping it on the truck and lettin' 'er rip.
I read an article a long, long time ago about which 5VZ years that were good at taking boost and years that weren't. Unfortunately, I don't recall if the '98 SR5 was yay or nay.
Honestly, don't just run it alone without supporting mods. If your 'local' is Bowling Green, it's barely 500ft above sea level. If you were going to have predetonation issues, the closer you are to sea level, the more likely you are to have said issues. In days gone by, my Supra would make 14psi on the factory setup going through mountain passes or even at home in Calgary, but I get to sea level and I can't boost past 8psi... why? Too much air, too easy; trips the fuel cut in the ECU and the whole system panics and shuts down. 8 PSI down at sea level is 280hp, but it takes 14psi to make the same power at 3000ft or higher.
There's alot of factors that play into that, and those numbers are real rough so don't hold me to them... but my point is you're real close to sea level. A turbo charger is moderated by a pressure spring on the wastegate, meaning you can get control over the boost by fiddling with the wastegate pressure... that's how I drove at sea level without problems, push a button, and I'm ramping up boost through the mountains. A supercharger regulates boost with pulley size. Smaller pulleys spin the lobes faster, making more boost. Pretty simple physics here. But the point is that as air pressure increases obviously air density does as well... hence that 5VZ-FE's that are at high elevations don't have pinging problems as prevalent as those at low elevations, because there's simply less air going in, and thus the amount of fuel needed to match is within the capabilities of the factory ECU.
The 5VZ is most vulnerable to high load, low RPM ping. You get that sucker wound out at WOT, you're not likely to have ping. It's those highway hills that will kill.
Anyway, point and case here is that do the right things and the motor will last. Throw on a supercharger without proper preparation and it's likely you'll find lots of parts in the oil eventually. Pre-detonation does not discriminate to cost, age, or make/model. It kills all engines equally.
Also, the transmission will strip teeth off gears because it spends too much time on the clutches. You will need to remedy this with valve body modifications. There's lots of info out there. A transmission cooler isn't a bad idea as well.
Frankly, if a guy's gonna intentionally blow up a motor, just save the $1200 and drop a screw down the spark plug hole. Power adders without supporting mods is like building a house without a foundation: it's a pretty house, but the smallest gust of wind will flop it over. Proper Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance... or something like that.
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rideexileex
Senior Member
Lots has been said on this before, but it seems to be a lot of the luck of the draw.I have been running mine for over a year and a half with no problems, just with tightening the kick down cable.
Scotty_h
New member
Obviously, this is not the point. I am aware that some additional mods will need to be set in place to keep the RELIABILITY where it needs to be.
-This may be a moot point as the guy has yet to return my call-
Thanks to all for the input. This will be a mod forever ingrained in my head as something I want to do.
BlackCat914
New member
Holy crap, you seriously couldn't make this stuff up. Wtf?
