3rd gen 270K.....
- Thread starter Bt08231
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Lower ball joints
Condition of the radiator: If still OEM, get a replacement like Denso or Koyo soon (to avoid pink milkshake)
Condition of the Transmission oil
If trans is replaced ask why? could be pink milkshake very famous for 3rd gen's
The most recent Timing belt and components replacement
Drive shaft U-joints
Rear axle oil seal leak
HEATER CORE for hot air
Based on the location check FRAME CORROSION
Post pictures for us to see.
Good luck!
Condition of the radiator: If still OEM, get a replacement like Denso or Koyo soon (to avoid pink milkshake)
Condition of the Transmission oil
If trans is replaced ask why? could be pink milkshake very famous for 3rd gen's
The most recent Timing belt and components replacement
Drive shaft U-joints
Rear axle oil seal leak
HEATER CORE for hot air
Based on the location check FRAME CORROSION
Post pictures for us to see.
Good luck!
jgue467
Senior Member
Based on where you are, rust. :cowboy:
Tinigunner11
New member
I have two 3rd gens a 97 I bought with 243,xxx and a 2000 highlander/sport with 277,xxx. The 97 is now at 278. The biggest thing I'd say to watch out for is lower ball joints. Mine had been changed with non oem by the PO and failed after 25,000 miles. When replacing only use oem. Next is timing belt and water pump, which are a given. It doesn't take long to pull a corner of the timing cover to check especially if there's no sticker. Lots of people suggest changing the radiator but I wouldn't say that's something that has to be right way. I'd change the fluid in the rear diff, front diff and transfer case. But other than that these are stout trucks. With basic maintenance and some love they'll run very well for you. Good luck and update the thread this pictures! What price are they asking by chance?
EDIT: also check for valve cover leaks on the valve covers corners, and makes sure the bolts are torqued to spec, 4.5 ft pounds. On both of my trucks they were not even hand tight. Also check the rear axle to see if the seals are leaking. Check the backside of the drums.
Last edited:
JayRolla
New member
Radiator imo is way more important than timing belt. If timing breaks you stuck side of road. If radiator decided to take a shit he is out a $2000 trans.
paint was clean and it decent shape, all original body work with vin tags, all original glass with vin etched into it. This thing had the cleanest frame ive ever seen on a 3rd gen, looked immaculate. The rear brakes were locking up when you would pull off. Would not replicate in reverse. Once they warmed up they operated properly, after the test drive the drums were very hot so obviously something is locked up/ not right. Brand new tires, new timing belt/water pump/ front brakes/ windshield. We sealed the deal at $2k.
Were going to sort out the steering rack, axle seal and rear brakes shortly...also a new rad!
Were going to sort out the steering rack, axle seal and rear brakes shortly...also a new rad!
Tinigunner11
New member
I'd haggle a little if you could. Where's it leaking on the rack? When I bought my 2000 I was told it would need a whole new rack but just ended up being a turn pressure hardline. Few bucks at the junkyard, 10 minutes to remove and install, and working power steering again!
Tinigunner11
New member
Nice! Congrats! Post up some pictures!!!:worthless
Renegade_Medic
New member
Cool, sounds like a great deal. I'll share my experience with buying a "high mileage" 4Runner.
I also had a leaking power steering return line. I replaced just the soft section above the Driver Axle with a new piece of Trans cooler line and a couple hose clamps. The new hoses are incredibly expensive.
For the radiator, I just replaced mine with a Koyo unit from Autozone, it was less than $100. I opted to forgo running the Transmission part and just run the lines to a cooler. I also used Red Pentafrost (A1?) Jap coolant.
I bought a new rear wheel bearing and all the seals, ABS, rotor, and collars from Toyota of dallas parts website, for roughly $160. I spent a morning pulling the axle and took it to a local machine shop (called around first, this place just said "Oh, a 3rd gen 4Runner" when I said 99 4Runner when asking about the cost on their services. That sold me on them) and paid $60 or so for machine work for the install of parts. New brake shoes and turn the drum ( I went with Brake Best premium shoes, they are brake shoes, not high performance rotors and pads) cost roughly $30. So all said and done the Rear axle seal cost me about $250. I also bought some new springs/brake drum hardware and wheel cylinder while i was in there, figured I'd do it, I don't remember the cost, but it wasn't much.
These can get expensive, but I feel the ends justify the means. Especially if you can turn the wrenches yourself, it will save a TON of money.
I also had a leaking power steering return line. I replaced just the soft section above the Driver Axle with a new piece of Trans cooler line and a couple hose clamps. The new hoses are incredibly expensive.
For the radiator, I just replaced mine with a Koyo unit from Autozone, it was less than $100. I opted to forgo running the Transmission part and just run the lines to a cooler. I also used Red Pentafrost (A1?) Jap coolant.
I bought a new rear wheel bearing and all the seals, ABS, rotor, and collars from Toyota of dallas parts website, for roughly $160. I spent a morning pulling the axle and took it to a local machine shop (called around first, this place just said "Oh, a 3rd gen 4Runner" when I said 99 4Runner when asking about the cost on their services. That sold me on them) and paid $60 or so for machine work for the install of parts. New brake shoes and turn the drum ( I went with Brake Best premium shoes, they are brake shoes, not high performance rotors and pads) cost roughly $30. So all said and done the Rear axle seal cost me about $250. I also bought some new springs/brake drum hardware and wheel cylinder while i was in there, figured I'd do it, I don't remember the cost, but it wasn't much.
These can get expensive, but I feel the ends justify the means. Especially if you can turn the wrenches yourself, it will save a TON of money.
x1
The only thing that matters is condition.
Was it taken care of?
Has time/weather taken to hard of a toll?
