3RD Gen rear axel ?'s

[DRMILLAN]

Hello. I figured this will be the fastest best way to get an exact answer. I have a 99 LTD. The rear axel assembly specs are as follows. 4.30, ABS, DIFF-lock, & 16" wheels. What I need to know is, are all axel housings for the respective model years the same? I want to know if a carrier housing with DIFF-lock will fit an axel housing that was w/o a DIFF lock carrier housing. I have salvage yards telling 5 different things, and am getting sick of the run around. My axel housing was bent by a tow truck driver who dropped my 4Runner down hard. Now my left rear bearing went out. It went from an occasional soft rumble to a hard grind, taking out the ABS pick up sensor, and toner ring in 55 miles. The exact match axle assemby in descent shape is hard to find for under $650, but I can find assemblies with ABS and w/o DIFF-lock for cheap, and lower miles. So in short, if I pull the carrier housing and gears off of an assembly w/o DIFF-lock, will I be able to bolt my carrier assembly w/DIFF lock to that axel housing? Help from someone who knows w/o a doubt would be much appreciated.
Missing my ride. :crybaby:
J.J.
:thanks:

P.S. Companies alway ask also what my wheel size is, is that only because of gear ratio, or is there something else relevant between 15" and 16" tires?

 

[Pikeman]

No they are not the same. Search for E-locker retrofit to get the answer. All the mounting points for suspension and stuff are the same but 3rd is different. There will be some grinding and welding to make it work. If it is true that the tow truck dropped it and bent it then you need to file a claim with them and have the Tow company pay for the replacement.

 

[4-Ripcord]

No, it won't be a perfect fit, but with a little bit of cutting it will fit. Keep the 3rd member from your elocker axle and get a non-elocker axle housing and modify it, it will work.

Heres a link on how to put an elocker in a non elocker housing: 4Runners.org - 3rd Gen 4Runner E-locker Retrofit

You can disregard most of the wiring part of the writeup, as you already have the wiring in your 4runner.

 

[DRMILLAN]

Thanks guys, ya all sure are some smart fellars, unlike the fart smellers I have ben dealing with. So, if I have this all right, the non-e-locker axle housing that I may get for very cheap, is identical to the e-locker axle housing that came in my vehicle in all mounting applications, size and shape, with exception to the couple of bolt holes that need to be drilled and tapped around the e-locker on the left side of the housing, and the two notches that need to be cut out to accomodate the e-locker shift fork? If you gentlemen would be willing to take this help a little furthur, I will ask a few more details.

FIRST: As far as the double threaded bolts that need to be added, will I be able to use the ones from my existing housing, providing they come out with a little help from heat, or are they factory pressed or welded, and I will need to get new ones from the dealer?

SECOND: I did have a "P.S." about the wheel size. Are people asking me for their health, or is there something out on the ends that will throw a monkey wrench into this idea. My runner has 16" wheels, the one I am looking at to retrofit, had 15" wheels. Problem here or not? I don't see one, but I'm not the expert.

It took me a bit to figure out what you meant by "3rd member", but I figured it out. I always referred to it as a carrier assembly or housing. 3rd member sounds like Austin Powers would call it. LOL.

THIRD: I just made a few calls for a gasket to use as my marking and cutting template and so far, no one carries it. Will this be a dealer item only, or is an after market version available. Just asking because the link you provided says to not bother using the gasket due to sealing problems and just use the grey RVT, and I don't sant to buy a dealer item if it is only used as a guide and then tossed. Dealer can be quite proud of their parts sometimes when it come time to pay. Look at the factory fog/running lights on this 4runner. $420 for the little light, over $500 if I need the bracket. WTF, it's a fog light, not a bar of 24K gold.

As for the tow truck company, well, he's a small town garage guy who will laugh and say, "Can't squeeze blood from a rock." Also, after I put it in the ditch (mind you, the front end got the hit, flat ground, gaurd rail, ass-end never got touched) it sat in the body shop for 18 months before the bent housing was noticed. See how long things sit when it is a "favor", now favor get just as much time to pay off. lol

Thank you for the help so far. This seems to be so far a simple fix that will save me a nice chunk of change, especially when mine was stock e-locker from the factory. I can skip the whole electrical part.

J.J.

 

[DRMILLAN]

Thanks guys, ya all sure are some smart fellars, unlike the fart smellers I have ben dealing with. So, if I have this all right, the non-e-locker axle housing that I may get for very cheap, is identical to the e-locker axle housing that came in my vehicle in all mounting applications, size and shape, with exception to the couple of bolt holes that need to be drilled and tapped around the e-locker on the left side of the housing, and the two notches that need to be cut out to accomodate the e-locker shift fork? If you gentlemen would be willing to take this help a little further, I will ask a few more details.

FIRST: As far as the double threaded bolts that need to be added, will I be able to use the ones from my existing housing, providing they come out with a little help from heat, or are they factory pressed or welded, and I will need to get new ones from the dealer?

SECOND: I did have a "P.S." about the wheel size. Are people asking me for their health, or is there something out on the ends that will throw a monkey wrench into this idea. My runner has 16" wheels, the one I am looking at to retrofit, had 15" wheels. Problem here or not? I don't see one, but I'm not the expert.

It took me a bit to figure out what you meant by "3rd member", but I figured it out. I always referred to it as a carrier assembly or housing. 3rd member sounds like Austin Powers would call it. LOL.

I just made a few calls for a gasket to use as my marking and cutting template and so far, no one carries it. Will this be a dealer item only, or is an after market version available. Just asking because the link you provided says to not bother using the gasket due to sealing problems and just use the grey RVT, and I don't want to buy a dealer item if it is only used as a guide and then tossed. Dealers can be quite proud of their parts sometimes when it come time to pay. Look at the factory fog/running lights on this 4runner. $420 for the little light, over $500 if I need the bracket. WTF, it's a fog light, not a bar of 24K gold.

As for the tow truck company, well, he's a small town garage guy who will laugh and say, "Can't squeeze blood from a rock." Also, after I put it in the ditch (mind you, the front end got the hit, flat ground, gaurd rail, ass-end never got touched) it sat in the body shop for 18 months before the bent housing was noticed. See how long things sit when it is a "favor", now favor gets just as much time to pay off. lol

Thank you for the help so far. This seems to be so far a simple fix that will save me a nice chunk of change, especially when mine was stock e-locker from the factory. I can skip the whole electrical part.

J.J.

 

[Pikeman]

The gaskets are about $8-12 from most dealers. See ToyotaPartSales.com or www.championtoyota.com for best online deals. The reason they ask 15 or 16" wheel is brake diameter. Althouogh I believe the rear drums are the same but the front are definitely smaller for the 15" rim version. The other important question they should ask is for ABS or non ABS.

 

[4-Ripcord]

FIRST: As far as the double threaded bolts that need to be added, will I be able to use the ones from my existing housing, providing they come out with a little help from heat, or are they factory pressed or welded, and I will need to get new ones from the dealer?

As far as I am aware of, they are factory pressed and welded in. New ones shouldn't cost too much though.

SECOND: I did have a "P.S." about the wheel size. Are people asking me for their health, or is there something out on the ends that will throw a monkey wrench into this idea. My runner has 16" wheels, the one I am looking at to retrofit, had 15" wheels. Problem here or not? I don't see one, but I'm not the expert.

The wheel size had nothing to do with the rear axles when Toyota put everything together, you are still good to go. If anything, the drum brakes may be different, but you can swap your old ones over too.

It took me a bit to figure out what you meant by "3rd member", but I figured it out. I always referred to it as a carrier assembly or housing. 3rd member sounds like Austin Powers would call it. LOL.

After I finished the reply, I though you might not know. But it's just so fun to say.

THIRD: I just made a few calls for a gasket to use as my marking and cutting template and so far, no one carries it. Will this be a dealer item only, or is an after market version available. Just asking because the link you provided says to not bother using the gasket due to sealing problems and just use the grey RVT, and I don't want to buy a dealer item if it is only used as a guide and then tossed. Dealer can be quite proud of their parts sometimes when it come time to pay. Look at the factory fog/running lights on this 4runner. $420 for the little light, over $500 if I need the bracket. WTF, it's a fog light, not a bar of 24K gold.

I'm afraid it is a dealer part. Besides, with a part like that, I would avoid going aftermarket.

 

[DRMILLAN]

Pikeman & 4-Ripcord, thank you both gentlemen, your links and info were perfect and should make this easy. As for ABS, mine has ABS, as does the one I am looking at. Th eonly differences were the e-locker on mine, and the other was not. The retrofit link will solve this. Mine is 16" wheels, the other is 15"", this as you say should be fine. I'm not sure the other gear ratio, but if I am to use my 3rd member, who cares what it is. So far it seems the toughest part is going to be finding the correct size and thread double threaded bolts. Any suggestions? Toyota or Fastenal? Thanks again.