4 LO: Is Mine Working? (with video)

[BlueHenT4R]

Greetings to this message board, as this is my first post. I am a T4R rookie, though I have owned YJ and JKU Wranglers. I just purchased an '06 SR5 V6 with 105k miles and love just about everything about.

However, I believe I may have the sticky actuator for 4 LO due to possible non-use by the original owner. What's odd is I hear the clunk and the green truck diagram stops flashing, but the beeping never goes away when I start moving. I tapped the actuator and differential with hammer as suggested in other posts. I made a short video going through the various engagement scenarios. Can I get an assist in confirming that something is wrong? I mean, the beeping is not supposed to stay on like this, right?

http://youtu.be/ITmNZD2YWik

 

[robtmc]

4Lo will stop blinking when it engages, and there is no mistaking the gearing being far lower as soon as you start moving.

If you have not had the fluids changed in differentials and transfer case, might want to think about that. Made mine slip in a lot easier.

It is also better after driving a while and all is warm.

 

[RunnerAK]

Are you shifting to neutral (I can't see the video right now)? It shouldn't beep at all if you're in neutral.



Edit: Was able to watch the video -- give it a little bit more time for the 4LO to engage (stop blinking) before you put it into gear. In several of the demonstrations in the video, you shifted to drive as soon as the 4HI indicator quit blinking, it sometimes takes several seconds more before the 4LO engages too and the indicator stops blinking.

 

[Be_Original]

If it is similar to 03-05 4WD knob selector come to a complete stop, shift into neutral, then push down on the knob and turn to 4LO, you will hear a "clunk" and light on your dash indicating 4LO. No beeping should be heard.
Now have some fun

Sorry unable to watch video at the moment

 

[jdigitty]

Yes the 4low isn't engaged until the 4low light stop's blinking. Sometimes it does take a little longer to engage. Try giving it a little longer in neutral to engage. I think on the visor it brakes it down pretty good.

Like robtmc said changing the fluid might help after i did mine it took less time.

 

[CookieRoe]

Seeing the video:

1) try engaging on dirt road. Looks like you are on a paved road.
2) AT LEAST you can re-engage back to 2HI. Sometime it binds in between and then you are really screwed.
3) Give it time. Keep at it until you feel/hear (thud) the 4lo engaging. Afterwards, try using it often to "free up the actuator".
4) I should totally take my own advice and do this.......................

 

[Robs08Runner]

Try this. Drive down the street in 4high. Come to a complete stop. Shift into neutral and then go into 4low. I don't think that it will work unless its been in 4high first. To be honest, I think Id drive around all day in 4high to get everything lubed up good and then try 4low. The 4x4 can handle it. Its not a part - time system.

 

[kevinpt]

dont know how well i like the idea the people used on this thread but check it out

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/111026-4wd-disengage-problems.html

 

[BlueHenT4R]

Thanks everyone for the advice. I'm going to keep going at it. I bought a dead blow hammer at Harbor Freight last night, so today I'll be whaling instead of tapping after I get it well warmed up from driving awhile.

If that all fails, I guess I'll have to see how badly I really want 4 LO. I intend to do a lot of beach driving so it would come in handy. I know actuators are five figure repairs.

 

[28.]

Thanks everyone for the advice. I'm going to keep going at it. I bought a dead blow hammer at Harbor Freight last night, so today I'll be whaling instead of tapping after I get it well warmed up from driving awhile.

If that all fails, I guess I'll have to see how badly I really want 4 LO. I intend to do a lot of beach driving so it would come in handy. I know actuators are five figure repairs.

It sucks if it's actually failing, but it would suck more if it's just stuck and you still buy a replacement and fix.. Mine was stuck after replacing my blown transfer case with a used T case with its actuator intact. What I did, though not sure if anyone else has tried it, was I drove up my driveway which is sloped as seen on my sig pic, and then let it roll backwards on its own for just a tad while still in drive. I know it sounds loco but another forum member gave me this advice and it worked. I figured person who owned the 4runner my T case came from never bothered with the 4-lo thus letting it stick.. I go to 4-Lo at least every couple of months now while on dirt road or just a simple back and forth on my driveway and has been flawless since.. Good luck.

 

[BlueHenT4R]

Thanks. I'm going to try just about everything before dropping ~$2500 on a repair. Hopeful this will work itself out.

 

[CookieRoe]

....... then let it roll backwards on its own for just a tad while still in drive. I know it sounds loco but another forum member gave me this advice and it worked.......

That's great to know, thanks for sharing that tid-bit of information.

 

[wkeryder4]

I was originally having trouble getting mine into 4LO when I first got it. (I don't think the previous owner used it very much.) But I just left it in neutral while it was blinking and gave a couple light taps to the actuator. Tried it a few more times and eventually it gave a big clunk and locked in. Now it locks withing a few seconds of switching it over.

 

[BlueHenT4R]

And on the third day... ...MY 4 LO ENGAGED!!! :thumb3:

I think the key was taking a 40 mile round trip in 4 HI. When I got back I tried 4 LO once and got the clunk but no engagement. Then back to 2 HI and back to 4 LO. Then got clunk, no beep, and tell tale gearing feel of 4 LO.

Thanks again for all the help and support. Really appreciate it. :thumb3:

 

[Robs08Runner]

Good job! Two days a month I run in 4high. Makes a difference.

 

[robtmc]

Now that you have your new toy, remember to play with it often to keep it loosened up!