4Reak Show's build/use/nonsense
- Thread starter 4Reak Show
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4Reak Show
New member
Thanks. Yeah I'm pretty sure it's an MV-50. Oh yeah I do realize the heat issue. I tried planning for it with the computer fan/vent addition to the install. This is the only pic I took of the fan behind the vent inside the console.
I also only have 32" tires and air up time is like 2 minutes per tire at the most. I also learned to turn off the compressor when switching between tires. It gets hot FAST when it runs and has no where for the compressed air to go. I wonder if those stupid expensive ARBs generate similar heat for the $300+... still not worth it to me.
4Reak Show
New member
Quick cosmetic update. Finally gave the rear some attention
Before: faded 24 year old plastic of the bumper had turned grey. Can't see it here but the little OEM spoiler's finish was chipped and terrible too
So I painted some Bedliner on the plastic, since it is a step and a little grip there is nice. Standard satin black for spoiler and I did the plastic around the license lights and license plate black too since the factory grey look wasn't doing it for me. Now it looks NICE back there. Even for a stock, dinged up bumper
As a bonus I hit the tail and reverse light lenses with some paint polish stuff my buddy gave me. Brought the lights back to life. Gotta love the little things.
Before: faded 24 year old plastic of the bumper had turned grey. Can't see it here but the little OEM spoiler's finish was chipped and terrible too
So I painted some Bedliner on the plastic, since it is a step and a little grip there is nice. Standard satin black for spoiler and I did the plastic around the license lights and license plate black too since the factory grey look wasn't doing it for me. Now it looks NICE back there. Even for a stock, dinged up bumper
As a bonus I hit the tail and reverse light lenses with some paint polish stuff my buddy gave me. Brought the lights back to life. Gotta love the little things.
4Reak Show
New member
Tackling something that's been on my want list for some time: Project Full Length Roof Rack
Ordered an additional duplicate rack kit and cut it up a bit to create another extension.
Here is the teaser pic of the full length resting roughly in place
Thanks to [MENTION=101372]Dropzone[/MENTION] for the idea of adding stock roof rail pieces for extensions to mount it all. Only got to one rivnut tonight before I shut down my garage...No going back now as there's a fresh 19/64 hole in the roof... Only 5 more holes to complete the rail mounting. Terrifying.
Ordered an additional duplicate rack kit and cut it up a bit to create another extension.
Here is the teaser pic of the full length resting roughly in place
Thanks to [MENTION=101372]Dropzone[/MENTION] for the idea of adding stock roof rail pieces for extensions to mount it all. Only got to one rivnut tonight before I shut down my garage...No going back now as there's a fresh 19/64 hole in the roof... Only 5 more holes to complete the rail mounting. Terrifying.
Dropzone
New member
I like that rack, what brand or did you build it? if so nice job:hat:Tackling something that's been on my want list for some time: Project Full Length Roof Rack
Ordered an additional duplicate rack kit and cut it up a bit to create another extension.
Here is the teaser pic of the full length resting roughly in place
Thanks to [MENTION=101372]Dropzone[/MENTION] for the idea of adding stock roof rail pieces for extensions to mount it all. Only got to one rivnut tonight before I shut down my garage...No going back now as there's a fresh 19/64 hole in the roof... Only 5 more holes to complete the rail mounting. Terrifying.
drilling that first hole can be sort of nerve wracking...just be sure you seal them like crazy. i had one hole i thought i had put a ton of silicone sealer in and of course it was the one that leaked.
4Reak Show
New member
For the rack, it's one of the few things that's bought, not built. It's a Uventure, by Reese I believe. Amazon has them for like $100. Currently, this will be 3 total rack kits cut up and combined into one. Keep in mind I acquired the 1.0 version which was 2 rack kits combined for zero dollars from a buddy.
I was incredibly nervous. But after the first, there's no going back. I'm using a really good quality RV roof sealant, around the rivnuts upon insertion (giggity) and I'll add a dollop for the rail install as well to cover the threads.
Thanks! It's been a labor of love. I have an admittedly unhealthy attachment to it at this point. But that means everything I do matters that much more.
4Reak Show
New member
Full Length Roof Rack is DONE!
Pros: doubled the storage, looks waaaay better, left and right side overhead lights are now actually over my head instead of behind it.
Cons: had to put 6 new holes/rivnuts in the roof, and won't really be doing a leak test until winter...
Silver lining/daily bonus: when I took off stock rails to paint them, I found a little rust forming under an end cap. Not bad for 24 years overall but glad I found it.
Pros: doubled the storage, looks waaaay better, left and right side overhead lights are now actually over my head instead of behind it.
Cons: had to put 6 new holes/rivnuts in the roof, and won't really be doing a leak test until winter...
Silver lining/daily bonus: when I took off stock rails to paint them, I found a little rust forming under an end cap. Not bad for 24 years overall but glad I found it.
4Reak Show
New member
Thanks! We have to optimize space in these that's for sure.
Unrelated:
Had my Brake Booster fail. Symptoms include AFR/Boost gauge pegs to max lean when brake pedal is pushed (indicating vacuum leak), severe "whoosh" sound from under my feet when brake pedal is applied (further indicating vacuum leak), and what was the other thing? Oh yeah right right: it takes approximately 4.8 miles to stop the damn truck and requires the right quadricep power of an NFL all-star linebacker.
Turns out OEM booster aren't available for a 24 year old truck. Had to go aftermarket. Amazon to the rescue.
Installed it tonight in about an hour and half and drove around the block. I almost knocked my teeth out on the steering wheel during the first stop, holy moly is it better. The hair medal band Cinderella got it right when they said "you don't know what you got til it's gone."
Tip for others is that it didn't come with new gaskets for firewall/master cylinder. Those are still available from Toyota. I didn't have time to wait so I just used some RTV pretty thick. It's really just for dust and dirt, but it's important to stay diligent.
4Reak Show
New member
313 miles today. Ran Poker Flat trail again to avenge the April non-completion. Ab-so-lute-ly ASTOUNDING.
Saddleback lookout was great. Something like 7000 feet or so. Still active. Fire watcher was there to chat with. Still uses an ancient tool to map out potential fires
The views... I mean just wow
That's super easy to get to from Saddleback Road near Downieville. Like 8 miles into a medium grade fire road.
Then in went on. You get to a killer trail to reach La Porte heading northwest overall.
Small river crossing
And then it got pretty hairy. A healthy climb up some gnarly rock gardens. The 4Reak never skipped a beat. TrueTrac in rear/open in front and it just kept chugging along. So any folks with a locker and being aware can handle it no problem. And it's worth it. After all that you eventually get to a sweet ass 1890's/1900's cemetery.
Super creepy. Totally going to come back someday and camp right near here. Entering from LaPorte side is pretty easy. Then run the trail in reverse. That would be sweet.
Highly recommend this track to any moderate rig with a calm and confident drive. Exhausted, but worth it!
Saddleback lookout was great. Something like 7000 feet or so. Still active. Fire watcher was there to chat with. Still uses an ancient tool to map out potential fires
The views... I mean just wow
That's super easy to get to from Saddleback Road near Downieville. Like 8 miles into a medium grade fire road.
Then in went on. You get to a killer trail to reach La Porte heading northwest overall.
Small river crossing
And then it got pretty hairy. A healthy climb up some gnarly rock gardens. The 4Reak never skipped a beat. TrueTrac in rear/open in front and it just kept chugging along. So any folks with a locker and being aware can handle it no problem. And it's worth it. After all that you eventually get to a sweet ass 1890's/1900's cemetery.
Super creepy. Totally going to come back someday and camp right near here. Entering from LaPorte side is pretty easy. Then run the trail in reverse. That would be sweet.
Highly recommend this track to any moderate rig with a calm and confident drive. Exhausted, but worth it!
manonthemove
New member
wow, this looks incredible! Gonna have to make it out there sometime soon.
4Reak Show
New member
Junkyard score today. Rare find:
2 door 2nd gen. Sad to see it junked
But on it I found front SR5 mud flaps (I'll be on my 3rd set as I attempt once again to make them work with the sliders.)
And I figured what the hell and yanked the tailgate and spare swing out.
It's missing the piece that latches the swing out so that is still on the hunt list. One day I will tackle the swing out conversion. But for $45 and an hour of time I didn't think it was too bad of a deal.
[MENTION=101372]Dropzone[/MENTION] any tips on installing a swing out retrofit? I have actual tailgate, just needs matching paint.
2 door 2nd gen. Sad to see it junked
But on it I found front SR5 mud flaps (I'll be on my 3rd set as I attempt once again to make them work with the sliders.)
And I figured what the hell and yanked the tailgate and spare swing out.
It's missing the piece that latches the swing out so that is still on the hunt list. One day I will tackle the swing out conversion. But for $45 and an hour of time I didn't think it was too bad of a deal.
[MENTION=101372]Dropzone[/MENTION] any tips on installing a swing out retrofit? I have actual tailgate, just needs matching paint.
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Dropzone
New member
nice score. I would recommend waiting to mount the swing out until you have found the tailgate mount. It will help you get the alignment correct.
For the inside mount (sorry no pictures) i bent some 1.5" wide flat stock (i think 3/16") to fit the inside of the upper and lower mount. I clamped that to the two mounts and drill half inch holes.
I used stainless 1/2" allen head bolts. It seem like it made it easier than trying to get a socket in there.
You will also need to totally remove the right inside plastic trim piece (major pain). Fold down the back seat so you can lay down when trying to get to the bolts from the inside. access sucks. I dropped a 3/4" wrench on the inside when i did my install that is still rattling around back there...
Hope this helps...let me know if you have any questions
4Reak Show
New member
Right on. Thanks man. This particular project is a ways off. I have a 1st fen roll bar that needs to be installed too. Takes up way too much space. I was figuring some sort of bent flat stock was the trick. Just there to disperse the load a little better?
That being said, there's a killer ship-to-you junkyard in Colorado. Called Yota Yard. Called today and they have the bracket. Lots actually. So I'll have all the pieces shortly.
I also found the spray paint Dupli-Color makes what are supposed to be factory matched paints in a spray can. That should save from having to do a professional job.
All this leads up to adding a second fuel tank... That's a whole nother can of worms yikes.
The wife is wondering when it will end. (I haven't had the heart to tell her it doesn't...)
4Reak Show
New member
Shit man I wish I could have taken it home. It was THRASHED. Had the B pillar chopped out and glass yanked. Interior was already shredded. Engine was ripped apart. Rear diff gone. Front suspension missing pieces. It had only been at the junkyard for like 2 weeks. This is only the 2nd one I've ever seen...
Dropzone
New member
That is cool they have one. I think i ordered some stuff from them a long time ago when I was working on my 81 Trekker.
Yes the flat stock helps to spread the load out. I think it would help to lessen the stress on the sheet metal, but the corner does seem to be pretty stout. I did also had some thick fender washers on the inside too.
Well that is something I have been considering too. Are you thinking the F-150 pick up or E-150 Ford Van tank install? My thoughts were to have it act as a transfer tank to the main tank so I could just flip an switch for an electric fuel pump to fill from the rear tank to the main tank so I didn't have to worry about a way to have a gas gauge etc. 75% of the time the 2nd tank would more than likely be empty since having the extra weight all the time would be a pain.
My wife likes me having a project truck (even though i haven't really touched it for awhile). She knows where the money is going and where I am out:biggrin1:
4Reak Show
New member
Long post, beware...
Right now I'm in the research phase of the project so it's all up in the air. Here are my thoughts and options from my current Internet scouring:
The Ford tanks seem to be the go-to but upon finding some pictures, they're actually pretty darn big. Which would require potential exhaust relocation or a body lift. Not really what I want to do.
The current idea I found is a tank from a 94-97 Corolla. Only 13 gals but it's a lot smaller and shorter so it would tuck better with a lot less modification of surrounding area. I haven't had a real chance to lay down and do a million measurements to confirm but I'm leaning this way.
As far as transfer system goes, I totally agree. Mounting a stock Corolla tank means a stock pump would have no issue transferring the fuel. The plumbing is where I start having issues especially because CA requires smog and EVAP is a huge part of that.
So my idea is to just have the systems connected but seperatable (if that's a word...) for example, have the EVAP vapor line T'd in all the time since that feeds the charcoal canister and would allow for the second tank to be totally sealed for bugs and dirt or whatever. Also the EVAP system would theoretically still work the same since the entire fuel system would remain sealed, it just draws vapors from a larger "single" container source.
Then there's the filler neck... Land cruiser's from Australia have a crazy dual system filler with a butterfly valve
Issue being this part is like $600. Nope. So I'm thinking of getting 2 junkyard 4Runner filler necks, cutting them in such a way to essentially recreate the above picture and welding them together into a Y... Then puting a large stainless ball valve to the hose of the aux tank. That way I control when I fill the aux tank.
The end game is to flip a switch, have the aux pump fill the main tank through its own filler hose with a secondary small hose HIGHER that runs back to the aux tank's return line. This would mean there is zero chance of overfilling and spilling since any overfilling would just pump the fuel back into itself essentially also eliminating the need for an additional gauge and such. Details haven't been finalized just yet.
This gas tank project is going to be massive. Any ideas or thoughts are welcomed.
Edit:
I was thinking about this all day and looked around under the truck and near the filler neck and had the simplest idea, albeit not the coolest. Have the spare tank as nothing more than a storage vessel. Completely seperate altogether. Run the vent hose for EVAP to a little filter or something tucked away under the truck and have the filler neck for aux tank standalone as well. Then simply have a coil of hose with a 1/4 turn valve on it and a toggle switch nearby to run the aux pump and just refill the main tank via the stock filler neck. Leaves all the factory plumbing unmolested and allows for basic storage of fuel with minimum alterations to the vehicle. Downside being you have to get out to actually fill it up but I didn't see that as that big of an issue really. Sure beats having 2 jerry cans flopping around on the roof.
I also looked into tank selector valves and found that to be whole nother mess dealing with switching the supply and return sources as well as level senders and fuel pumps. Overall, the last idea is the easiest cheapest and simplest way to carry extra fuel without losing storage.
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