4th Gen Shrockworks Sliders Install Help?

[wayne551]

Got my Shrockworks sliders after a long wait, and attempted install today, with two good home mechanic friends and all the right tools, including a good floor jack.

Experienced all of the usual learning curve stuff, like figuring out how to pop off the brake and fuel line brackets to get bolts through, etc.

Long story short is that we could only get two bolts in on the passenger side, and only one bolt in on the driver's side.

After 4 hours of trying, ended up with one slider installed on the passenger side with 2 out of 3 bolts (until I can get the 3rd one in), and nothing installed on the driver's side. So I'm lobsided!

Two problems - hole misalignment because of the overlaps and welds on the frame, and access to the rear driver's side bolt hole because of the fuel tank.

Anyone have experience with this install, and can you share any tips?

I'm not interested in grinding my frame, or doing any welding. Can this be solved?

Thanks!

 

[BlairB]

I had a similar problem with my slider, as have many others.

When I put my sliders in the correct location the welds caused them to bow out (basically the bracket went from l_l to \_/ ). I used a C clamp to pull them back together and get a bolt through. Have had no issues since.

As for the fuel tank issue, it can be done, its just not easy.

 

[wayne551]

I had a similar problem with my slider, as have many others.

When I put my sliders in the correct location the welds caused them to bow out (basically the bracket went from l_l to \_/ ). I used a C clamp to pull them back together and get a bolt through. Have had no issues since.

As for the fuel tank issue, it can be done, its just not easy.

Got a call today from Jim at Shrockworks, and he confirmed what you're saying about the bolt near the gas tank location, so I will go back at it and get it done. He also suggested that if I can't get the front bolts through, I could try slightly smaller diameter bolts, since the bolts just hold the sliders in position and don't bear any big load. And I'll try the C-clamp trick too!

Thanks for the reply. BTW, when I first joined the forum, it was your 4Runner pics that pushed me to finish up my "black out" project - no chrome, all black - love it. Thanks for the inspiration!

 

[rook]

I had some misalignment issues as well. I put a slight bend in the bolts that needed to be aligned and then they slipped into the hole no prob. Just give the bolt a few light hits with at 3lb hammer.

 

[wayne551]

Yes - was thinking about "banana-ing" those last two stubborn bolts. Next wrench night is this Thursday, and I have a few tricks in hand to try to get things done. I'll add bolt bending to the list.

Interesting how this string has attracted the two "dark no chrome" 4Runner guys that I first noticed when I started my truck project - you and BlairB. Cool.

 

[wayne551]

To close this thread, I went back at it tonight, and was able to get the driver's side slider on no problem. Used the "tongue depressor with tape" trick to get the rear nut up into position squished in by the fuel tank. The other two went on without issues, no bolt bending needed.

I'll need to deal with the passenger side front bolt, which will either require an extra long bolt with banana treatment, or will have to drop the slider and bend the bracket back to proper shape.

Either way, all is secure for now, looking good and I'm very happy with the Shrockworks sliders, and the customer service I received after I called them for help.

 

[Synister]

This is all good to know as I will be picking up my sliders tomorrow and will bear these tips and tricks in mind when installing.

 

[MICA4R]

Anyone installed these on a rig with XREAS pics would be very much appreciated


Installation
1. Remove the stock steps.
2. We usually lay a blanket down for installation to protect the Powdercoat finish .
3. Lay the slider on the ground centered between the wheel wells (wide bracket toward the front) Notice where the brackets will slide up and
capture the frame, make sure to unfasten any obstructions from the frame to enable the bracket to slide behind any hard lines. The slider
brackets will slide in behind all lines.
4. V6 MODELS REMOVE THE EXHAUST HEAT SHIELD. It is fastened with 3 nuts and can be removed with a 12mm socket.
5. With the slider on the flat on the ground make sure the brackets are not spread to wide to pass the bolt all the way through and be able to
tighten with washers. If so they can be bent by standing them on the side of the bracket and pushing down.
6. Using a floor jack under the center bracket, raise the slider into place until the brackets are flush with the bottom of the frame. The front
bracket will line up just forward of the T-Case Crossmember. The notch at the top of the rear bracket will line up rearward of a body
gusset. You may need to move the jack under other legs to get the slider all the way in place. (see pics on pg 2)
7. Once the slider is in place, fasten the center bracket with the 5”x3/8” provided from the inside out (nut toward the outside of frame), using
a washer on both sides of the bracket and a lock washer on the nut side.
8. Then install the bolts for the forward legs of each slider bolting from the inside out (nut toward the outside of frame), use 2 extra washers
on the bolt head side on the front brackets, and install the bolt from the outside going inward on the rear most leg of each slider.
9. Tighten all six bolts and reinstall any unclipped lines or removed pieces.

 

[t-rex grrr]

I had a similar problem with my slider, as have many others.

When I put my sliders in the correct location the welds caused them to bow out (basically the bracket went from l_l to \_/ ). I used a C clamp to pull them back together and get a bolt through. Have had no issues since.

As for the fuel tank issue, it can be done, its just not easy.

Resurrecting an old thread, but this particular post helped a lot.

The only issue that I experienced was with the front passenger bracket, and a C-clamp worked wonders. For future reference, I used a 6" clamp.

Thanks, Blair!

 

[edwardvmassey]

To add on here, I had all the same problems. Started a 6500 mile trip out west and by the time we reached arizona, the water on the road had the sliders squeaking like crazy. Stopped off at a machine shop and paid $50 to spot weld some areas and havent had any issues since. Kinda bummed at the painful install and paying a premium for bolt-ons that I'll never take off again. I wish Shrocks wouldve widened the brackets just a hair.

 

[mjjaeger]

Advice on Fuel Line Clip Removal?

Sorry to bump again on an old post, but it appears that previous posters have solved the challenge I'm currently facing. Can anyone comment on the best method for removing the fuel/brake line clips without damaging them? I have 5 of 6 bolts installed, but I need to be able to move those lines downward a bit in order to get the driver's side front bolt to pass through the spots.

Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[RazzRoach]

Sorry to bump again on an old post, but it appears that previous posters have solved the challenge I'm currently facing. Can anyone comment on the best method for removing the fuel/brake line clips without damaging them? I have 5 of 6 bolts installed, but I need to be able to move those lines downward a bit in order to get the driver's side front bolt to pass through the spots.

Thanks in advance for any help!

Did you ever figure this out? I feel like I’m going to break the fuel lines. I’ve pulled on the pretty hard and am still not even close to getting the drivers side front bolt in.

 

[hinmo24t]

For my white knuckle sliders I had to work the top brake line clip out blind and and inside frame one I snapped the clip with pliers...theyll go eventually.