fastbroshi
Member
Note: this describes work I did on my 2004 SR5 V6 2WD.
I just replaced these two sensors the other day and thought I'd point out some tips that helped me since everything I've googled seems to just cover the V8s.
This is for the upstream sensors, or the ones closest to the cylinder heads and the hardest to reach. I listed most of the tools I believe I used because I can't remember them all, as I'd never done this before and my cart was full of tools when I finished that I tried but didn't work.
Tools Needed:
3/8 ratchet
3/8 breaker bar
3/8 wobble extension, 6" long
various other extensions
small portable light
small pocket knife or very small straight screwdriver
O2 sensor socket, 22mm, i.e. Aries 70039
two new sensors, Denso #2349047
Scanner that can delete any sensor codes you may have gotten. I used a CRP-123, lovingly referred to as the Crap-123 in my house.
*Check the new sensors' threads for anti-seize. Apply some if not present.
I started on the driver's side but passenger or driver side first doesn't matter. First remove the middle skidplate if you have one. To release the sensor's connector, go back up top and reach in behind the engine and slide in one of the blades of the pocket knife enough to unlatch the connector. At this point the blade may be wedged in there more or less, so you can just pull on the connector and pop it out.
To break the sensor loose on the manifold, I used the sensor socket connected to a wobble extension about six inches long, and maybe another regular six inch extension and got it loose pretty quickly. The quickest way to do this for me was to go up from underneath the vehicle. Access was too limited from up above or through the wheel well.
I inserted the new one, tightened it up from down below, and went back up top to clip it back in. Overall I may have wasted an hour trying to get it out from up top and through the wheel well. If you think it's a good idea to cut down the handle of your water main wrench so you can try and loosen the sensor from a vertical angle, it may work. But it wasn't near as easy as going from down below.
For the passenger side sensor, first remove the rubber intake elbow (has the two molded wire clamps). Keep in mind it is almost impossible to see this side's sensor connector without a mirror if you're looking down behind the intake by the firewall, as there is another device's connector piggybacked with the O2 sensor connector on one locating bracket. That unrelated connector can stay in place. Don't waste time trying to get it out of the way. The lever on the sensor's connector to disengage it is on the bottom of the connector if you could look straight at it. If you feel around for it with your hand, you will find it. Get your mirror out and manipulate it and a light down there if you need a better sense of what to do. I didn't even need my pocket knife to release this one, just my big hairy car repair knuckles.
Once released, grab that wobble extension and the regular one you used before, connect your O2 sensor socket and loosen the sensor. I found it best to have the socket's drive hole clocked at roughly 1 o'clock from perpendicular to the engine. Careful, it will be very easy to slice your hand on something here. Once removed, replace with the new sensor and plug in its connector.
Put the key in and turn to ACC. Connect your scanner and clear any codes. Start the truck and look for codes to reappear. Reinstall any skidplates you may have removed.
Of note, my car had an exhaust leak for a while, and it would throw an O2 code that would go away after a while. It showed up again about 3 weeks ago and wouldn't disappear this time. So I had a shop redo the exhaust manifold-to-head gaskets and I did the sensors. My VSC and TRAC lights still come on but I think I just need to do the zero point calibration.
I just replaced these two sensors the other day and thought I'd point out some tips that helped me since everything I've googled seems to just cover the V8s.
This is for the upstream sensors, or the ones closest to the cylinder heads and the hardest to reach. I listed most of the tools I believe I used because I can't remember them all, as I'd never done this before and my cart was full of tools when I finished that I tried but didn't work.
Tools Needed:
3/8 ratchet
3/8 breaker bar
3/8 wobble extension, 6" long
various other extensions
small portable light
small pocket knife or very small straight screwdriver
O2 sensor socket, 22mm, i.e. Aries 70039
two new sensors, Denso #2349047
Scanner that can delete any sensor codes you may have gotten. I used a CRP-123, lovingly referred to as the Crap-123 in my house.
*Check the new sensors' threads for anti-seize. Apply some if not present.
I started on the driver's side but passenger or driver side first doesn't matter. First remove the middle skidplate if you have one. To release the sensor's connector, go back up top and reach in behind the engine and slide in one of the blades of the pocket knife enough to unlatch the connector. At this point the blade may be wedged in there more or less, so you can just pull on the connector and pop it out.
To break the sensor loose on the manifold, I used the sensor socket connected to a wobble extension about six inches long, and maybe another regular six inch extension and got it loose pretty quickly. The quickest way to do this for me was to go up from underneath the vehicle. Access was too limited from up above or through the wheel well.
I inserted the new one, tightened it up from down below, and went back up top to clip it back in. Overall I may have wasted an hour trying to get it out from up top and through the wheel well. If you think it's a good idea to cut down the handle of your water main wrench so you can try and loosen the sensor from a vertical angle, it may work. But it wasn't near as easy as going from down below.
For the passenger side sensor, first remove the rubber intake elbow (has the two molded wire clamps). Keep in mind it is almost impossible to see this side's sensor connector without a mirror if you're looking down behind the intake by the firewall, as there is another device's connector piggybacked with the O2 sensor connector on one locating bracket. That unrelated connector can stay in place. Don't waste time trying to get it out of the way. The lever on the sensor's connector to disengage it is on the bottom of the connector if you could look straight at it. If you feel around for it with your hand, you will find it. Get your mirror out and manipulate it and a light down there if you need a better sense of what to do. I didn't even need my pocket knife to release this one, just my big hairy car repair knuckles.
Once released, grab that wobble extension and the regular one you used before, connect your O2 sensor socket and loosen the sensor. I found it best to have the socket's drive hole clocked at roughly 1 o'clock from perpendicular to the engine. Careful, it will be very easy to slice your hand on something here. Once removed, replace with the new sensor and plug in its connector.
Put the key in and turn to ACC. Connect your scanner and clear any codes. Start the truck and look for codes to reappear. Reinstall any skidplates you may have removed.
Of note, my car had an exhaust leak for a while, and it would throw an O2 code that would go away after a while. It showed up again about 3 weeks ago and wouldn't disappear this time. So I had a shop redo the exhaust manifold-to-head gaskets and I did the sensors. My VSC and TRAC lights still come on but I think I just need to do the zero point calibration.
