4th to 5th Generation - Looking for Information

[Orc]

In my 2007 Tacoma that didnt have traction control I lost total control on ice at probably near 55mph on an interstate bridge. Sliding sideways at those speeds I looked outside the passenger window to see a semi coming right at me. Somehow the truck turned back but slightly too far tapping the bridge to turn me perfectly straight. Needless to say I checked my underwear after that one. The rear bumper was dented slightly.

When you get a huge snowfall part time 4x4 is great but I generally prefer my fwd beater in the winter. Awd and 4x4 just make you go faster and that can be bad when you think you can stop and you can't. Fwd is great traction tester.

I own a 4th gen SR5 and a 5th gen LE.

To me, the most important differentiating factor between all the 5th gen models is that only the LE has full-time AWD. Every other model offers only part-time 4x4 modes.

I rarely offroad. The 5th gen is my bad weather / winter daily driver. To me, having power to all 4 wheels all the time is much more useful that crawl control or a locking rear differential. Full-time AWD affords you power to all 4 wheels in rain and patchy snow/ice. You can't use part-time 4x4 modes in those conditions without either constantly switching back and forth to rear wheel drive, or leaving it in 4x4 on the high traction sections and putting strain on the drivetrain / transfer case.

So it really comes down to how you're gonna use this thing.

 

[Drama1]

In my 2007 Tacoma that didnt have traction control I lost total control on ice at probably near 55mph on an interstate bridge. Sliding sideways at those speeds I looked outside the passenger window to see a semi coming right at me. Somehow the truck turned back but slightly too far tapping the bridge to turn me perfectly straight. Needless to say I checked my underwear after that one. The rear bumper was dented slightly.

When you get a huge snowfall part time 4x4 is great but I generally prefer my fwd beater in the winter. Awd and 4x4 just make you go faster and that can be bad when you think you can stop and you can't. Fwd is great traction tester.

In my 05 SR5 V6, I can run in four-wheel all year long or leave it in two-wheel all year long. What I generally do, summer, I'm in 2. Winter, I leave it in 4. Don't know why the hell Toyota moved away from this. Another reason I hate to get rid of my 4th Gen.

 

[Orc]

In my 05 SR5 V6, I can run in four-wheel all year long or leave it in two-wheel all year long. What I generally do, summer, I'm in 2. Winter, I leave it in 4. Don't know why the hell Toyota moved away from this. Another reason I hate to get rid of my 4th Gen.

If it's not rusted out I would just fix it. You know if it's a solid truck or not. I paid 37k for my SR5 and that's no small chunk of change. You might keep yours on the road for many more years for not much money.

 

[GearJunkie88]

We really like the XREAS until it came time to replace shocks/struts. When it failed, it FAILED. We ended going the 5100 route.

I went from a 2008 4R Sport with XREAS to a 2017 ORP without KDSS or XREAS. The 2008 XREAS failed and I replaced it for some enormously expensive amount. I wish I had found this forum before I did that. I would have replaced the suspension with 5100s instead. My 2017 with normal suspension was perfectly fine. I didn’t miss XREAS at all. I eventually did a lift and installed 5100s and I think it handles better than that overrated XREAS stuff I had before. Don’t buy into the suspension “upgrade hype” of XREAS or KDSS. Maybe I’m just not sophisticated enough to fully appreciate the benefits. Just my 2 cents...

 

[RPS99SHO]

I have an 05 SR5 V6. 220,000 miles on it. I was ready to pull the trigger on a new 18 SR5 Premium last year until I went to Denver for a week on business. I rented a 2017 SR5. After a week of driving the 5th Gen. there was no way I was giving up my 05. I know you can do mods on pedal feel and supposedly it works, but in my un-educated opinion the 5th Gen. is God awful underpowered. Going up the mountains outside Denver I had to practically floor the Runner to get it going. Really turned me off to a new model and especially since I really like the look of the 5th over the 4th Gens I was really disappointed. Like I said, just my un-educated opinion.

I think being a mile above sea level contributed...I'm not defending the general laziness of the 5g, but maybe try one in Chicago and see if it feels different. I bet it will.

 

[FZRunner]

I've had 3 gen's of 4runners and love em all. I completely understand the issue, having had the chance to upgrade to a 5th gen recently. Honestly, I could live with one. I could adapt, but I prefer my 4th gen. But, if economically it wasn't worth keeping, I'd buy a newer (used) 5th gen and be fine.
If I were you, I'd do a spreadsheet kind of thing with repair stuff vs. money down and such, plus the fact a newer one will last another whatever amount of mileage. Or not. Cheers.
PS My daughter loves the new Voodoo Blue, so it's good she doesn't get to make these decisions. Good luck.

 

[4-Legged-Runner]

I'm a current owner of an '04 GX470 (same drivetrain as your 4th gen minus the vvti and power boost that came in '05), and a '15 4Runner Ltd.

The pedal calibration in the 4Runner made it feel like a dog, despite having a signifigant power and torque advantage on paper over the GX. I purchased a sprint booster for the 4Runner and it made a considerable difference, making the 4Runner feel like the spec sheet suggests it should, well worth the purchase price IMO. Totally changed the character of the 4Runner for the better. The power is there, you just have to work it really hard to access it in stock configuration.

How does the use of the sprint booster impact your warranty? Do you set it back to factory with every visit to the stealership??

For me, full time 4WD is not always a positive. More spinning parts all of the time can mean more to go wrong when it does, especially since we have kept our current 4G since new and we are at approx. 165K miles. We get attached to the vehicle.

 

[Inv4drZm]

How does the use of the sprint booster impact your warranty? Do you set it back to factory with every visit to the stealership??

For me, full time 4WD is not always a positive. More spinning parts all of the time can mean more to go wrong when it does, especially since we have kept our current 4G since new and we are at approx. 165K miles. We get attached to the vehicle.

The CV's and front differential still spin with a selectable 2wd/4wd model, really you are only saving the front driveshaft from wear.

165k miles isn't much for these trucks, if they are taken care of.

 

[IanB]

How does the use of the sprint booster impact your warranty? Do you set it back to factory with every visit to the stealership??

For me, full time 4WD is not always a positive. More spinning parts all of the time can mean more to go wrong when it does, especially since we have kept our current 4G since new and we are at approx. 165K miles. We get attached to the vehicle.

It installs in-line between the gas pedal connector and the wiring harness, up under the dash. It could be removed in 2min if you ever needed to. The sprint booster doesn't require you to hard mount the controller, and you can actually disconnect the controller once you've got it set where you want it so you'd really need to be looking to even notice it's there.

 

[Toffees]

How does the use of the sprint booster impact your warranty? Do you set it back to factory with every visit to the stealership??

For me, full time 4WD is not always a positive. More spinning parts all of the time can mean more to go wrong when it does, especially since we have kept our current 4G since new and we are at approx. 165K miles. We get attached to the vehicle.

I'm a little confused--you do or don't like your 4G AWD? Because that's the same system in the 5G LE.

 

[4-Legged-Runner]

I'm a little confused--you do or don't like your 4G AWD? Because that's the same system in the 5G LE.

Sorry, that is a bit confusing of a statement...

I NOW prefer a standard 2WD w/ a proper 4WD mechanical transfer (as found in the ORs). Just a more simple mechanical design, and since we like to keep our vehicles long-term, we are looking for longevity in a design.

Our 4G has gotten us around extremely well. Just concerned because at our mileage, when the BIG things start wearing out it could get expensive fast.

 

[Orc]

Although the lever is mechanical the system still uses the automatic disconnecting differential system that uses electronic servo. With the trail model you just delete one electronic element but those rarely fail.

Sorry, that is a bit confusing of a statement...

I NOW prefer a standard 2WD w/ a proper 4WD mechanical transfer (as found in the ORs). Just a more simple mechanical design, and since we like to keep our vehicles long-term, we are looking for longevity in a design.

Our 4G has gotten us around extremely well. Just concerned because at our mileage, when the BIG things start wearing out it could get expensive fast.

 

[doxidad]

Sorry, that is a bit confusing of a statement...



I NOW prefer a standard 2WD w/ a proper 4WD mechanical transfer (as found in the ORs). Just a more simple mechanical design, and since we like to keep our vehicles long-term, we are looking for longevity in a design.



Our 4G has gotten us around extremely well. Just concerned because at our mileage, when the BIG things start wearing out it could get expensive fast.

I had an 04 sport and yes things can get expensive fast when they start failing.

My personal option is if you liked the way XREAS made your drive, you'll like KDSS. I drove a 15 SR5 for a while and couldn't get use to the roll in cornering after 12 years with XREAS. Thats a why I now drive a 17 ORP. Not the same but it really dampens the roll in cornering. Like I said personal opinion - drive with and without and see what you think.

Sent from my SM-T820 using Tapatalk

 

[Bumbo]

There is no DAC button on my 2017 ORP. I think my buddies 2014 Trail has it. Perhaps this was changed in 2017.

I suspect DAC and Crawl Control has some overlap in function which is why they might have removed it?

I've used DAC on multiple occasions... it's an interesting system only having to use one peddle, weird and cool at the same time. Needs independent control of each wheel during descent so if you have a locker, must disengage.

 

[Bumbo]

Sorry, that is a bit confusing of a statement...

I NOW prefer a standard 2WD w/ a proper 4WD mechanical transfer (as found in the ORs). Just a more simple mechanical design, and since we like to keep our vehicles long-term, we are looking for longevity in a design.

Our 4G has gotten us around extremely well. Just concerned because at our mileage, when the BIG things start wearing out it could get expensive fast.

The previous transfer case was fully mechanical as well, not a clutch based or other system.

Unless you were referring to the physical lever in which you shift the truck into 4WD... that I like too. I would have preferred that over the electronic actuator. Even my friends GX is a shift lever.

I have future plans of converting my 4th gen to a lever shift if I ever have an issue with the electronics... but even with over 200k on the clock, its been reliable.

 

[nglayton]

I've found the best way to get a good price is two things.

First is to shop around a bit. I have well over 6 Toyota dealerships within an hour drive and they all want to make the "sale". Once you start pitting them against each other prices drop a little.

After you think you've gotten the best price from the dealerships lookup the local Costco car sales and get the pre determined Costco price and see if anyone came close to it. In my case it was still $2000 better than the dealership.

After that, dial up the local AAA auto source sales guy and ask what price they can get for you. In my case is was $2000 cheaper than Costco price!! Not to mention no bullshit up sale tactics, like extended warranty, undercoating, window protection, etc, etc. I was in and out of AAA in 30 minutes trade in and all. Bam, done. The dealership takes all F'ing day to get the deal done with all their BS. Time is of more value to me than anything else. 30 minutes on my lunch hour vs. 7 hours of my Saturday...no contest.

Also, year end clearance sounds like a gimmick, but no dealership wants to have a 2018 model hanging around at the beginning of 2019 or even in November/December for that matter.

I've also figured out that if you don't get caught up in the excitement of getting a new car you have the upper hand. Be calm, realistic, know what you want before you go and you are much better off. It needs to be more like you're buying a new crescent wrench than a new car. Sales people prey on emotional purchases. As a matter of fact some of them make a living doing it.

Don't get caught up in "special" items like color, DVD players, leather seats, floor mats, etc. Coming across as indifferent to these "features" won't give the sales people any leverage. Once they know you just have to have multiple features, they really put the psychological hit out on you. Having a sales guy continually driving home how I mentioned I want to have leather seats 3-5 times during the sales process really rubs me the wrong way....It's enough for me to walk away no matter how badly I need a new rig.

Some of those items will come on the new rig anyway and the dealer will either charge you appropriately or take them out if you request it. Some will just eat the cost because they are lazy or can sense it sweetens the sale. But in the end you can always add any of that stuff later on your own, probably for cheaper.

 

[4-Legged-Runner]

I've found the best way to get a good price is two things.


After you think you've gotten the best price from the dealerships lookup the local Costco car sales and get the pre determined Costco price and see if anyone came close to it. In my case it was still $2000 better than the dealership.

After that, dial up the local AAA auto source sales guy and ask what price they can get for you. In my case is was $2000 cheaper than Costco price!! Not to mention no bullshit up sale tactics, like extended warranty, undercoating, window protection, etc, etc. I was in and out of AAA in 30 minutes trade in and all. Bam, done. The dealership takes all F'ing day to get the deal done with all their BS. Time is of more value to me than anything else. 30 minutes on my lunch hour vs. 7 hours of my Saturday...no contest.

WOW - I am aware of the Costco route - but I have NEVER heard of the AAA doing sales let alone trade-ins? Definitely something I will look into.


In your experience, 1.) does the AAA vehicle come from a local dealer 2.) what dealer do you have it serviced at?

 

[nglayton]

WOW - I am aware of the Costco route - but I have NEVER heard of the AAA doing sales let alone trade-ins? Definitely something I will look into.


In your experience, 1.) does the AAA vehicle come from a local dealer 2.) what dealer do you have it serviced at?

AAA is great, I've used them 3 times now...each time saving at least $1k over Costco.

AAA seems to get the vehicle from various nearby dealerships. I'm not sure how they choose, but all 3 of mine have been different dealerships. This last purchase came from my local dealership 10 miles from my house.

For service you can take it to any place you want. Toyota Corp pays the dealership for the 2 free years of Toyota Care, so the dealerships don't care other than they all want the easy money from corp. I just take them to the dealership closest to my house even though AAA got one of them over an hours drive away. (Service manager is a high school buddy, so I get the no BS treatment from them as well)