6 inch lift on 5th Gens

[cbielat]

Go on either Instagram or Facebook and search Keak or Keak400 I think. He's got a 4th gen on a 6" drop bracket with 40s and light bars out the ass. It's the dumbest build to date. For those in the know, it's not a safe build in many ways. But there are others who don't understand and just think because it's big, it's cool. So many people have hated on it. It's funny to read the comments. If you want a good laugh, go search for it.

 

[Jeremy556]

There was a 4th gen on this forum with one of those stupid bracket lifts and 35s. He broke suspension components, the frame and/or parts of the bracket lift every time he took it out, which was only a few times before it was totaled.

 

[Kotrin]

So if you really did a 6" lift, you gain only 2" max of physical clearence If your lucky. Plus if you actually mention to your insurance company, they will drop you in a heart beat..

Give them a call sometime and just mention it, friend ran into this on his Ford (larger than 6" but I know my insurance told me over 5" would violate it).

 

[Belaire23]

To each their own tho. I like it. Would i ever run something like that? No, its not very practical but I could still see uses for it.

If they like it let them have at it. I'll always enjoy seeing pics like those. Especially people who wheel them like Ma_Mu from Japan.

 

[Jeremy556]

So if you really did a 6" lift, you gain only 2" max of physical clearence If your lucky. Plus if you actually mention to your insurance company, they will drop you in a heart beat..

Give them a call sometime and just mention it, friend ran into this on his Ford (larger than 6" but I know my insurance told me over 5" would violate it).

No, it doesn't gain any ground clearance, it is just lowering the LCA mounting points and adding a bunch of gusseting that will never match the strength of the stock LCA mounts. It adds longer spindles so that larger tires can be fitted, which is where the potential additional ground clearance comes from.

To each their own tho. I like it. Would i ever run something like that? No, its not very practical but I could still see uses for it.

If they like it let them have at it. I'll always enjoy seeing pics like those. Especially people who wheel them like Ma_Mu from Japan.

They can have it, and they will. Whenever it shows up in this forum (as long as I'm here, anyway), it will be the object of scorn and ridicule that it deserves.

 

[Jeremy556]

But I though Artic rigs only ran a small coilover lift if any lift at all. I thought it was all fender mod and clearance.

No, they do drop the cross member. I bet the Artictruck guys would be the first to tell you not to try to rock crawl their trucks - they are purpose built for their environment and would perform very poorly outside what they are designed for.

 

[Kotrin]

No, it doesn't gain any ground clearance, it is just lowering the LCA mounting points and adding a bunch of gusseting that will never match the strength of the stock LCA mounts. It adds longer spindles so that larger tires can be fitted, which is where the potential additional ground clearance comes

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I was going off just the fact you can run 315s vs 285s..lol

 

[ma_mu_]

I'm not good at English. So, I can't understand all of the comments...

I used the bracket lift kit for FJ.(procomp)
Basically I was able mounting as it is.

However, the rear upper link did can't be installed. Because hit to the fuel tank.
So I didn't exchange the upper link.

If you want to install the upper link, you must remake it.

I think so too that it don't gain ground clearance.
We also discussed about it.
However, I was able to install the 35" tire. In addition, I gained the entry angle.
Thanks to that, I have become possible to run a hard load than ever.
I'm enjoying off than previously.

My car doesn't trouble occurs at the moment.
But,bracket lift kit will give you a load and damage to the frame.
There is a risk that the trouble occurs.
We have thinking that repair is one of fan.
Trouble don't want to occur, if possible.

Bracket lift at your own lisk.

 

[Greenamphibious]

 

[Jetboy]

I've never really understood why you'd do a 6" lift and keep IFS. A solid front axle swap just isn't that hard or expensive to do and if done right it actually works. A 100 series or 200 series rear axle combined with a d60 front would be pretty sexy on a 5th gen. If you're gonna do big tires, do it right. Make it safe AND useful.

 

[wfo9]

I've never really understood why you'd do a 6" lift and keep IFS. A solid front axle swap just isn't that hard or expensive to do and if done right it actually works. A 100 series or 200 series rear axle combined with a d60 front would be pretty sexy on a 5th gen. If you're gonna do big tires, do it right. Make it safe AND useful.

Yep, that would be the way to go for sure, but it could get really expensive really fast. Not to mention lots of custom work.

People love kits that just bolt up and keep all the existing electronics... The electronics on the 5th might be the most challenging part. Maybe the FJ SAS guys have figured it out..

If someone made a bolt up SAS kit (even if it required welding on stuff) It would be very popular. But I doubt that will happen.

 

[Jetboy]

Yep, that would be the way to go for sure, but it could get really expensive really fast. Not to mention lots of custom work.

People love kits that just bolt up and keep all the existing electronics... The electronics on the 5th might be the most challenging part. Maybe the FJ SAS guys have figured it out..

If someone made a bolt up SAS kit (even if it required welding on stuff) It would be very popular. But I doubt that will happen.

There are a hand full of kits for SAS. The 4runner frame is really easy because it's basically long and flat and straight. So it should be easy to do the frame side of it with some CNC cut brackets with locator tabs to match up to the frame holes.

All-Pro has a kit for the FJ Cruiser. Possibly that would work too.

The axle side is a bit more custom simply because everyone might use different front axles. If you go with a custom front axle it gets really $$. But a used axle is a big variable.

Electronics are definitely a tricky issue. My take on it would be to build a unique custom 3rd member. Machine toner rings for the axle shafts on each side and move the sensors in to that location. In that case you could have a plug and play harness that connects to the original ABS sensor plugs but reads in at the diff. That solves a lot of the wire issues with long travel and allows for something that's easier to ship than a full axle. You could also just require a certain front axle with ABS rings and adapt them for this use.

Steering is always an issue as well. Since steering input is used for some systems you'd need more sensors somewhere in the adapted steering setup. Not impossible, but would need some thought to solve.

One other issue that I've done a few times, but may be daunting to home builders is that most axles will require adjusting caster angles to get proper driveline angle. So usually you cut the knuckles off, rotate, then re-weld. If you don't know what you're doing or how to do this properly, you could cause driveability issues. Especially if your two sides aren't matched in caster. It's not like an IFS where you can adjust it easily. That said, it's not rocket science. It does require a good welding table, good clamping setup, and measurement within half a degree or so. Even relatively inexpensive measuring tools can be used. And you'd better know what the heck you're doing welding them back up.

Making custom drive shafts is another issue. I'd suggest in this case outsource them if you don't know what you're doing. I've done a few - but my parent's shop has a rotating bed for welding mining drill shafts so it's a lot easier to do with the right tools. Doing it by eyeballing on a bench can be done, but it's not always easy.

 

[FactoryRide]

There are a hand full of kits for SAS. The 4runner frame is really easy because it's basically long and flat and straight. So it should be easy to do the frame side of it with some CNC cut brackets with locator tabs to match up to the frame holes.

All-Pro has a kit for the FJ Cruiser. Possibly that would work too.

The axle side is a bit more custom simply because everyone might use different front axles. If you go with a custom front axle it gets really $$. But a used axle is a big variable.

Electronics are definitely a tricky issue. My take on it would be to build a unique custom 3rd member. Machine toner rings for the axle shafts on each side and move the sensors in to that location. In that case you could have a plug and play harness that connects to the original ABS sensor plugs but reads in at the diff. That solves a lot of the wire issues with long travel and allows for something that's easier to ship than a full axle. You could also just require a certain front axle with ABS rings and adapt them for this use.

Steering is always an issue as well. Since steering input is used for some systems you'd need more sensors somewhere in the adapted steering setup. Not impossible, but would need some thought to solve.

All pro also makes a kit for the 4th gen 4runner as well. That may actually be a hair closer to work with and adapting to our 5th gen. I'd love to try it out, but SAS is a ways down the road for me.

 

[Jetboy]

SAS is a ways down the road for me.

Me too. I already have a dedicated trail rig - an FJ40 with all the usual stuff on 39's, so I really have no reason to do much to my 4runner other than for family trips it's a lot more comfortable and has more cargo capacity. But it's not really practical to build another trail oriented vehicle. Doesn't mean I don't want to...

 

[marshal]

All pro also makes a kit for the 4th gen 4runner as well. That may actually be a hair closer to work with and adapting to our 5th gen. I'd love to try it out, but SAS is a ways down the road for me.

so their SAS kit is $2400 (i think) then you'll need front coilovers at $1500-1700, a front axle that is an appropriate width. lets say a ABS compatible Currie F9 with one-ton outers, high pinion 3rd member on 6 lug and a locker - $7500 shipped. and then various extras you will need like brake lines, ABS extensions, DOM tubing for steering ETC $1000 and then the grand finale of PSC or Howe Hydro-Assist steering in the front, $1500.

so the front suspension alone on an SAS if yo do it right, out of the box is somewhere north of $10,000, plus then you have a gimpy rear axle and suspension you need to address. crate rear axles in the one-ton flavor are about $3500 ABS compatible. and since you're slinging big axles underneath it you might as well cut off and redo the entire rear suspension too with a double triangulated rear.

lets just stick a $15,000 sticker on a crate ABS compatible SAS one-ton axle swap package for the ability to run up to 40" tires effortlessly with 12-16" of travel in each corner. assuming you know how to drive and rock crawl - your $15,000 ticket just made you a rock god


now on the flip-side you have front L/T which with comparable coilovers and bump stops. say $6500 for a working 4wd front suspension with some durability enhancements. then you'll need a rear suspension to properly keep up with the font suspension, so throw another $2000 at that and some link upgrades. and then when your OCD gets the best of you from your front suspension being 7" wider overall, you'll need a $3500 rear axle to match it. your front L/T is realistically limited to 35" tires at that with 12-14" of vertical travel.

so really - to do it 100% the right way on both fronts you're looking at over $10k

 

[FactoryRide]

so their SAS kit is $2400 (i think) then you'll need front coilovers at $1500-1700, a front axle that is an appropriate width. lets say a ABS compatible Currie F9 with one-ton outers, high pinion 3rd member on 6 lug and a locker - $7500 shipped. and then various extras you will need like brake lines, ABS extensions, DOM tubing for steering ETC $1000 and then the grand finale of PSC or Howe Hydro-Assist steering in the front, $1500.

so the front suspension alone on an SAS if yo do it right, out of the box is somewhere north of $10,000, plus then you have a gimpy rear axle and suspension you need to address. crate rear axles in the one-ton flavor are about $3500 ABS compatible. and since you're slinging big axles underneath it you might as well cut off and redo the entire rear suspension too with a double triangulated rear.

lets just stick a $15,000 sticker on a crate ABS compatible SAS one-ton axle swap package for the ability to run up to 40" tires effortlessly with 12-16" of travel in each corner. assuming you know how to drive and rock crawl - your $15,000 ticket just made you a rock god


now on the flip-side you have front L/T which with comparable coilovers and bump stops. say $6500 for a working 4wd front suspension with some durability enhancements. then you'll need a rear suspension to properly keep up with the font suspension, so throw another $2000 at that and some link upgrades. and then when your OCD gets the best of you from your front suspension being 7" wider overall, you'll need a $3500 rear axle to match it. your front L/T is realistically limited to 35" tires at that with 12-14" of vertical travel.

so really - to do it 100% the right way on both fronts you're looking at over $10k

Someone has thought over both scenarios a good bit. I agree with you on the SAS part, but 15K is close to what it would cost you if you could do all the labor yourself. Assuming you have access to all of the tools you need as well.

Before I ever even decide whether I want to even consider LT or SAS down the road, I want to wheel the piss out of this truck and figure out what would fit my wheeling habits. As of now, I've done mostly crawling type stuff, but have not felt truly limited with IFS. The only thing about LT that I'm not convinced with is the 7" increase in track width, but I believe that is something with SAS to consider as well.

 

[marshal]

Someone has thought over both scenarios a good bit. I agree with you on the SAS part, but 15K is close to what it would cost you if you could do all the labor yourself. Assuming you have access to all of the tools you need as well.

Before I ever even decide whether I want to even consider LT or SAS down the road, I want to wheel the piss out of this truck and figure out what would fit my wheeling habits. As of now, I've done mostly crawling type stuff, but have not felt truly limited with IFS. The only thing about LT that I'm not convinced with is the 7" increase in track width, but I believe that is something with SAS to consider as well.

personally, L/T IFS is all i'll ever want - but it would come with a new rear axle housing. i wouldn't be using L/T to go fast, id be using it to articulate - which would bring in a new facet to the suspension - sway bars. proper suspension has sway bars connected on both ends at all times, but there is a catch - they are off road sway bars.

sway bars like the Currie Antirock will force the front and rear suspensions to work together, and provide a more planted level of dynamics. there is far more to it that i could expand on - but unless you want me to there really isn't any need in me typing it all out.

the point is, if you like to crawl and you have a L/T suspension - to get the most of out of it you need off-road oriented sway-bars

 

[FactoryRide]

personally, L/T IFS is all i'll ever want - but it would come with a new rear axle housing. i wouldn't be using L/T to go fast, id be using it to articulate - which would bring in a new facet to the suspension - sway bars. proper suspension has sway bars connected on both ends at all times, but there is a catch - they are off road sway bars.

sway bars like the Currie Antirock will force the front and rear suspensions to work together, and provide a more planted level of dynamics. there is far more to it that i could expand on - but unless you want me to there really isn't any need in me typing it all out.

the point is, if you like to crawl and you have a L/T suspension - to get the most of out of it you need off-road oriented sway-bars

I live in GA. There aren't any dunes or anything close for be to be driving fast even if I wanted to. I've actually considered trying to figure out how to make the Antirock work on our trucks, and ditching the KDSS all together. All pro makes a similar kit that I believe they worked with Currie to develop, and it is for the FJ. I don't imagine it being very difficult to work with the 4runner. The rear wouldn't be the problem with that I don't believe, but I haven't researched it enough to understand it completely.

For the front, Idk how an Antirock system would work with IFS, but Currie I think is working on that. They have an IFS Wrangler that they've been building and testing for when the wrangler comes out with IFS from the factory.

 

[marshal]

Antirock in the front with ifs wouldn't be any different than a live axle

 

[FactoryRide]

Antirock in the front with ifs wouldn't be any different than a live axle

How would you make appropriate sway bars for LT up front?