'87 4cyl rear differential help!!!

promted

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So there's something messed up in my rear axle, I'm not too sure what it is exactly but I'm leaning toward a ring and pinon. Ok, my plan was to disassemble my rear diff and see if I could get it to more or less free wheel. That way I can just drive it in 4WD until I can find a new rear axle. I'm hoping that if I disconnect my pinion from the ring, I will get a smoother rear axle. I took off my driveline, then unbolted the third member that is connected to the diff, I also took off the bolt that holds the center part (that's the pinion, ya?), but my problem is that I can't remove the third member or the pinion. Is there something that i need to do to get it to release? Are these normally supposed to just pull right off or is there a trick?
 
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Did you pull the axles out? if you run without a pinion all your gear lube will run out and ruin what is left of your rear,maybe even sieze up on the road. I wouldn't do it for long. :( The pinion comes out the back when you get the third off.
 
what is it exactly doing that makes you think the R&P are going bad? The toyota differential is pretty good and if it is stock and on a stock vehicle and has had oil, I doubt it is in bad shape. Also any differential is pretty complicated and your thoughts on how to get around having a bad rear end are not good. if you really are worried about it go to a junk yard and get a matching differential. To replace it you have to remove the axle shafts by removing 4 nuts per side, and a break line on each side. they will slide out, then pull the diff, and replace with the junk yard one. make sure you get a matching gear ratio too.
 
Hey, thanks guys. Ya, I wasn't sure if I had to take off the axles to get it off, but it went down. It was the ring and pinion... sweet. But now that I have it all off, it would probably be dumb not to just throw a new one on and be done. I just feel like a ring and pinion would be kind of pricey. One more thing off topic, I had to remove the brake fluid line to get the axle off, and I can't remember if there was anything I had to do other than refill any brake fluid that was lost once it's back together. Thoughts? And again thanks for the help.
 
replacing the ring and pinion is usually pretty labor intensive and thus expensive. No offense but judging by the questions you've asked you probably want to have a pro do it. I would go to a junk yard and get the whole 3rd member (the part that holds the ring and pinion) and just put it in. Remember to match the gear ratio to the old one. When you reattach everything you need to add brake fluid and bleed them. If you don't bleed them you will have no brakes!
 
Yeah, if you have 4.10 gears (and you probably do), you can pickup a used 4.10 3rd for around $50.

To have your old 3rd regeared will run around $550 with parts and labor.

If you really want to DIY, you should be able to find a used R&P for next to nothing from someone who has regeared.
 
Hmm, it seems pretty straight forward to me, just put in a new ring and pinion, ya? I know I ask some fairly simple questions sometimes but I like to know for sure, like the brake line thing, I feel like I remember hearing that I have to bleed the brakes first.. You are right though, there is a lot of things I'm still learning, but that's what a place like this is for, right? $50 would be awesome for a ring and pinion, though I don't know where any junkyards are in this small town. One more question, about the gearing. How do I know for sure what gear ratio I have. I'm pretty sure nothing has changed in the rear axle from the factory, but is there a way I can measure it myself?
 
Bummer, I found a salvage yard but they want $250 for a used third member, and they won't sell me a used ring and pinion.
 
Installing a setting up a R&P requires a lot of experience, and some special tools.

No, a junkyard is not going to pull the R&P out of a diff to sell to you.

And $250 for a used 3rd is ridiculous, unless it has a locker or something.

Start looking in the For Sale and post in the Wanted forums of Toyota BBS's like this. Used 4.10 3rds go for $50 or so all the time, and people have old 4.10 R&P's from when they regeared for taller tires.
 
Thanks guys, in the meantime I just went with plan A. I pulled out my pinion, and put a cap over the hole where the pinion leads to the driveshaft so oil can't escape, I also left the ring in so it could scoop up the oil and lubricate everything else. It seems to run just the same in 4WD but I bet I'll get worse gas milage. I'll just keep my eyes open for a third member.
 
If needbe I can keep an eye out when I'm constantly at the boneyard and if a see something I could perhaps pull it and ship it to you if you can't find anything
 
Ya, let me know if you find anything, I might be interested. Just shoot me an email if you run across something... Just out of curiosity, what would re gearing entail? I've been wanting to put some 33's on my truck but haven't been too gung-ho about it yet. If re gearing is kind of a necessity with 33's and a 4-banger, it might not be such a bad time to just start that project, eh?
 
a LOT of work. you need new ring/pinion (try summit racing) bearings/overhaul set. unless you are an experienced mechanic or have a horseshoe up your ass, you're gonna need a shop to do it which will cost around 2000 ish. you're gonna need to regear to 4.88 but with our stock 4.10 gearing you could sneak away with not regearing. what exactly are you looking for??
 
R&P set - $250
master overhaul kit - $100
labor, 2 hr @ $85/hr - $170

X2 = $1040 more or less


and that's if you pull the 3rds and carry them in.
 
Hmm, doesn't really seem like re-gearing is worth it if I only want 33's, eh? Ya, I've started to get the hint that you don't really want to mess with just a ring and pinion, I found out what it entailed and I don't think I want to spend days on that project. A whole third member is definitely the way to go I guess.
 

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