90 4runner slow build

Mantree

Mantree

New member
So I am finally geting started on some long overdue upgrades on my 4runner. My upcoming electrical upgrades are the following
New trailer converter
Reverse lights upgraded to flood lights
Underhood lights
Door lights
Switch panel overhead
Cb radio (cobra 29 ltd)
Front mount lights (2 flood 4 spot)
Window switch inside rear tailgate
Relocate rear and moonroof switches to overhead
Heated seat
Electric fan

So far I have wired uo a pile of relays for the trailer and rear flood lights and will be installing it when I have the time
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There will also be a safty switch in the rear to turn on the flood lights for use as work lights
On the way I have a new fuse panle and a bumper mount trailer plug
 
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You've got good plans so far - good luck!

I've got my own '90 4runner on a 'slow build' as well...reaaaally slow:)

But its all in the journey, right:rofl:
 
Everything i do is a slow build with working 40 hours and full time school I sleep about 3 hours a night so I get a day every few weeks to work on my projects but most of my time off has been spent on the bikes but I need to get the new tps installed and the new cat on
 
Dose anyone know if the whole rear wireing harness runs down the drivers idea untell the tail lights or if it splits farther up
 
Planing out my roof console I have all the trim off of where I want it. I think I will mount the maplights and rear view on the console and them the switches in for the aux lights and the sunroof I might move the rear window controls up to but not yet I need to order the switch for the window and I will be using the safty cover switches for the lights so that I don't bump them and blind somebody
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Mantree said:
Planing out my roof console I have all the trim off of where I want it. I think I will mount the maplights and rear view on the console and them the switches in for the aux lights and the sunroof I might move the rear window controls up to but not yet I need to order the switch for the window and I will be using the safty cover switches for the lights so that I don't bump them and blind somebody
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A nice upgrade for those map lights are the LED festoon style bulb, they make it a lot brighter. If you know the mm of your bulb, you can get them on Amazon for pretty cheap.
 
I've upgraded all of my interior bulbs to LED, and love the brightness.

I'm curious about your wiring for a trailer. Are you setting up something for utility, or just a normal trailer connection? I wouldn't think that relays would be needed for something a normal adapter can do.

Moving the rear window switch is a cool idea, tho. And I've seen another post on here where they added a switch in the rear so that if you're camping inside you don't have to reach up to the front to operate it. I may add that into mine.

Relays are a great idea if you're adding spots. Good thinking on that part.
 
HanginInUtah said:
I've upgraded all of my interior bulbs to LED, and love the brightness.

I'm curious about your wiring for a trailer. Are you setting up something for utility, or just a normal trailer connection? I wouldn't think that relays would be needed for something a normal adapter can do.

Moving the rear window switch is a cool idea, tho. And I've seen another post on here where they added a switch in the rear so that if you're camping inside you don't have to reach up to the front to operate it. I may add that into mine.

Relays are a great idea if you're adding spots. Good thinking on that part.
Click to expand...
My cargo light is already LED and the front lights will be soon. I had one of the cheap solid state converters burn up on me because of a short in a trailer so I am over building this one plus the 5 relays cost less than the trailer converter dose, I will also be using a 5 pin plug for incase I want to use a trailer with surge brakes. I use to be a 12v technician for a company that built fire trucks so I realy like relays because it gives me a safe way to handle the power spotlights take and it let's me run ground sided switches easyer. I have a new puzzle on my hands for the half doors that are in the plans since all the windows run through the driver's door I'm trying to figure out how to retain my rear window switches but I can't find a good diagram of the window wiring, I am thinking of just moving all the door switches to the center console like a mini cooper has and just puting cup holders in the holes left in the doors and doing away with the ones in the dash to make room for the switches above the radio.
 
This is what I am thinking for my window switches and my lock Switch. My mirror switch will be going next to the clutch start switch. Less wires to the door to unplug when removing the doors
1e5b8f22d2ed3f9289915fc0de0d0a41.jpg
 
I got my new 5 pin trailer harness to wire in to my relay bundle, pin 5 is wired to reverce lights fo surge brake lockout
 
Got my new reverce lights today ther are 2 of them about 4 1/4 wide and will be bending some brackets to mount them right above the taillights. The lighted toggle switch will be in the drivers c pillar to turn on the lights for use as work lights
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After fighting with the tps for so long I gave up and bought a new one. Got it in today and the truck runs smoother but still has a slightly off idle and cranks for a while befor starting I'm starting to think I might have a isue with my afm so I will be checking that this weekend

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On a wild hunch this morning I pulled the idle screw out to find 2 things 1 it was completely plugged with carbon and 2 the oring crumbled away as I pulled it out. Shot some wd40 down and pushed a bandana down with a screw driver, cleaned the screw and put on a new oring started it up and ajusted the idle. Runs a bit smoother and I'll see if it starts easyer tonight when I head in to work

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So it starts marganaly better but I have some questanable vac lines namely the front crank case vent. I might just plug the vacume ports on the manifold and just put on filters. I also want to move the airbox to the pasanger side to reduce the possibility of air leaks in the crossover
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