94 3.0 died

F

fastgtfairlane

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i have a 94 4runner 3.0 4x4 5spd with 245k miles that died on my last night. im not very familiar with these trucks yet. anyway a little history about the truck. i know it really needs a timing belt possibly the original. the truck has had the head gaskets done according to the previous owner, never ran hot anyway. it would however after it warmed up start to stutter from time to time from 1,000 to 2,500 rpms and clear up and run fine, when it was cold it ran great. im sure it needs a tune up which is in the plans now that its down. however, when it died it was cold, drove it maybe 1/2 mile. was pulling out of the neighborhood and just after i shifted into second, and started to go there was a pop and the engine died. it felt almost like the timing belt let go. however i did pull the cover back slightly, marked the belt, and cranked the engine over and the mark was gone. so the belt isnt broken. i know the obvious things to look for but anything in particular on the ignition or fuel side to look towards?
 
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Air, fuel, spark; those are the three things an engine needs to run. That being said, your timing belt could have jumped a tooth if it's that old. A compression test might give you some hints as to whether the valve train is working properly or not.

Another thing you can do is put a timing light on the #1 plug wire, crank the engine, and see if:
a) it fires at all
b) it fires at the right time (10-20 deg BTDC)

Since the distributor runs off the camshaft, grossly wrong ignition timing could also indicate a slipped timing belt.
 
Check your oil and coolant if it's milky then your head gasket could have blown.
A blown head gasket can make the compression low and not run or flooding the cylinder with coolant will stop spark. Also fluid in the cylinder will cause a semi hydroloc situation and can cause one Bank of cylinders to fight the others and jump timing. Making one side off timing but typically if it doesn't jump far it will still run just really bad with no power!

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk
 
updates. went out and took a look at the truck. i didnt notice the fuel pump kicking on when i turned the key on. also looked at the chiltons manual and it said you could put a jumper between b+ and fp on the data link connector beside the fuse panel. with the jumper in there and the ignition on, the fuel pump should run. i loosened the banjo bolt slightly and there was 0 pressure. even sprayed some starter fluid down the throttle body and it fired up! so my issue lies somewhere in the fuel pump area. i looked for a fuel pump fuse but didnt see one and i didnt notice any of the efi fuses were blown. any way to get the fuel pump out without dropping the tank?
 
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fastgtfairlane said:
updates. went out and took a look at the truck. i didnt notice the fuel pump kicking on when i turned the key on. also looked at the chiltons manual and it said you could put a jumper between b+ and fp on the data link connector beside the fuse panel. with the jumper in there and the ignition on, the fuel pump should run. i loosened the banjo bolt slightly and there was 0 pressure. even sprayed some starter fluid down the throttle body and it fired up! so my issue lies somewhere in the fuel pump area. i looked for a fuel pump fuse but didnt see one and i didnt notice any of the efi fuses were blown. any way to get the fuel pump out without dropping the tank?
Click to expand...

Did you hear the fuel pump run when the terminals were jumped? Did it stay running after you sprayed starter fluid?
 
i could not hear the fuel pump run at all, but did hear relays clicking. it did start on the starter fluid and ran just long enough to burn the fluid then shut down. im determined either the fuel pump is bad, very clogged fuel filter or both or something is causing the fuel pump not to run.
 
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Check your EFI fuse and make sure it's not blown. When you jump B+ to Fp in the diag connector, it's a direct connection from the EFI fuse to the fuel pump. No EFI fuse, no fuel pump.
 
i did check the fuse it is not blown. i read in another thread on here about fuel pumps and it showed an access panel behind the passenger seat where you can take the fitting loose and electrical connection.
 
so i found the small circular access panel for the gas line fitting and electrical fitting. pulled the carpet and access panel off to find the wires for the fuel pump connector going to the main plug broken in half! the power wire corroded and broke very close to the connector itself, may 1/4 inch there. a friend has a quality soldering kit and we soldered new wires to connect to and it runs! quite relieved, was not looking forward to pulling the tank. plus i was able to find parts much much cheaper online as i bought everything locally because i didnt want to wait for shipping. thanks again to those who chimed in
 
Engine flooding

Hey, I have been struggling to diagnose this problem on my 92 4runner 3vze auto 4x4.

It started with a stall here and there, and code 14 for spark.
I thought I had a rattle in my distributor, so I changed it. The timing was way advanced (25 degrees) so I reset it. Also changed the plugs. She sounded great and I drove about 10 miles, then it started missing and stalled. I managed to get it back puffing black smoke.
When it's cold, it runs fine, but as soon as it gets hot, it starts with the black smoke and missing and eventually dies.
I've tested and retested the tps and afm. If I hold the afm open all the way it will run but I don't think that's the issue as it tests fine.
When the afm engages the fuel pump relay, it starts hissing near the fuel pressure regulator (with engine off). Is that normal or maybe a leak? Also, the is a gurgling noise coming from inside my throttle body. Tb is clean but I have not pulled all hoses to check for clogs.
It seems like the cold start injector could be leaking as it feels like I'm choking the engine, but I don't know if it's capable of that.
Any ideas?
o2 sensor is less than a year old and tests good. Replaced coil and igniter (cause of the spark error)
Oh yeah, also all 6 plugs are fouling black so unlikely leaking injector right?
Thanks!
 
Kencart said:
Hey, I have been struggling to diagnose this problem on my 92 4runner 3vze auto 4x4.

It started with a stall here and there, and code 14 for spark.
I thought I had a rattle in my distributor, so I changed it. The timing was way advanced (25 degrees) so I reset it. Also changed the plugs. She sounded great and I drove about 10 miles, then it started missing and stalled. I managed to get it back puffing black smoke.
When it's cold, it runs fine, but as soon as it gets hot, it starts with the black smoke and missing and eventually dies.
I've tested and retested the tps and afm. If I hold the afm open all the way it will run but I don't think that's the issue as it tests fine.
When the afm engages the fuel pump relay, it starts hissing near the fuel pressure regulator (with engine off). Is that normal or maybe a leak? Also, the is a gurgling noise coming from inside my throttle body. Tb is clean but I have not pulled all hoses to check for clogs.
It seems like the cold start injector could be leaking as it feels like I'm choking the engine, but I don't know if it's capable of that.
Any ideas?
o2 sensor is less than a year old and tests good. Replaced coil and igniter (cause of the spark error)
Oh yeah, also all 6 plugs are fouling black so unlikely leaking injector right?
Thanks!
Click to expand...

You should start your own thread.

That said, how did your truck run with it advanced at 25 degrees? I ask because when I tore my engine apart, I found that my crankshaft pulley had actually slipped so that the marks didn't line up like they were supposed to.
 
I'm too new to the forum. It won't let me start my own thread.
It did run fine. I reset the timing to zero top dead center. It is dead on. Before double checking that, I tried setting it high and it wouldn't run.
I have checked my cold start injector and my egr. They seem to be fine. It's pretty black and wet in the intake plenum. I'm thinking I need to pull it and clean in. Also there seems to be a hiss coming from underneath it. Maybe a cacuum leak? I sprayed carb cleaner under there though and no uptick.
I still wonder about my airflow meter even though I've tested it with a multimeter a hundred times. It seems too easy to kill the engine by messing with the flap.
 
Just to rule it out, I'd pull the coolant lines off the throttle body and check to see if it's clogged. You don't have to drain the radiator to do it. One common area for a vacuum leak is the large tube that connects the afm to the tb. Taking it off and putting it back on starts to crack the edges. Do you know if anyone has opened the afm before?
You should hear some kind of noise at the pressure regulator with the fuel pump engaged.
 
I have replaced that hose you mention. Definitely no leaks through there. I took off the plenum. Pretty sure the fuel pressure regulator is stuck. At least as hard as I can suck on it, I can't get it to open. I'm gonna replace it. Nothing else seemed that bad. Is there an easy way to check continuity in my injector wires? Yesterday while I was fussing, I touch the wire to #6 and it killed the engine. I did this 5 or 6 times before pulling the connector, greasing it up/checking for damage, and hooking it back up. Then I ran fine for the rest of the day. This morning...problem is back, but as much as I wiggle and pull on that wire and everything else in the area, no effect.
 
Maybe the regulator is ok. New one doesn't seem any different. I also noticed #4 and 5 are really clean in the manifold compared to 1,2,3. #6 is kinda in the middle. Does that say anything?
 
Are you asking about spark plugs being clean? The easiest way I've found to check fuel injectors is to loosen all your spark plug wires on the cap and remove them one at a time to see if it makes any difference how the motor runs. Difference = good, no difference = bad. O'Rielly's loans out noid lights to test your injector wires. Just don't unplug the wires going to your igniter because it's all somehow connected.
 
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