97 4Runner Stalling at idle.

Please Help!!!!
Im so frustrated right now. My fuel pump wasnt kicking on after my stalling issues. So i pulled the harness and was getting 12 volt and 5 volt on the wires on the top of the harness(3 on top two on bottom) so i thought it must be fuel pump. I dropped the tank, which was a real ***** because of the location of hose clamps. Come to find out the power for the fuel pump is on the bottom 2 wires, i plugged in the new pump just to test and got nothing. No power going to the two wires. I replaced the open circuit relay and swapped the efi under the hood for the acc relay and still have no power to the starter wires. What could possible be causing me to not get power to the fuel pump wires?

On a side not as stated above, I just had my timing belt replaced, 2 weeks later I started stalling at idle or when coming to a stop. At Idle it would only die with accesories on. Would always start right back up and kept running if i kept rpms at 1000. Thought it was my IAC so i cleaned it, I replaced the starter and battery to test and that wasnt it so i took them out. Then it started stalling with no accesories on and the same day it just died on me and I had no fuel pump turning on.

Also i noticed that two of my belts are getting shredded, to the altenator and the ac pump. Noticed that the main pulley that holds all three belts had a notch in it and i probably tightened the belt to tight when i was putting the altenator back on.

Im at a loss here guys and dont know where to even look. Please help with any ideas.


Thanks!
 
I just went through the stalling at idle thing a few weeks ago. No codes at all and when it stalled, it would start right back up. I did the obvious, changed plugs and wires, air filter was new, took off throttle body and IAC and cleaned both. IAC didn't look bad, the throttle body was caked in gunk. I cleaned it really well, new gaskets. Clean Mass Air Flow sensor, it didn't look bad either (from what i could tell). I also checked all my hoses and found a few cracked that were causing vacuum leaks, replaced those. Still stalling at idle. I replaced the fuel filter (I should mention I have a 99 2.7 and for some insane reason, it's installed right under the intake manifold - replacing that suckeddddddddddd). Still stalled. I kept coming back to the MAF. I read somewhere that if you tapped on it while it was running and it acted like it was going to stall out, it was bad. At this point, I was ready to try anything as this was my daily driver and stressing me out. I tried it and sure enough it stalled. I called around and found one store in town that had one in stock. I took the old one with me ($60 core charge -wth) and got the new one. Put the new on in and did a test drive around the hood. Drove great. I took it on some roads around town where I could get speed up but still close enough to home that if it stalled, I could get it back. It was doing so well, I took it on the interstate and drove about 50 miles. Came back, set the parking brake, put it in D and let it idle for about an hour, tapped on MAF just to check the craziness and it didn't stall. That's been 3 weeks ago and it's still driving great. Not sure if it helps, lots more experienced people on here, but that's what worked for me. Hope you get it figured out!

p.s. doing this work and seeing all the work people on this forum do, put the bug in me.
 
BlueGuitar said:
I just went through the stalling at idle thing a few weeks ago. No codes at all and when it stalled, it would start right back up. I did the obvious, changed plugs and wires, air filter was new, took off throttle body and IAC and cleaned both. IAC didn't look bad, the throttle body was caked in gunk. I cleaned it really well, new gaskets. Clean Mass Air Flow sensor, it didn't look bad either (from what i could tell). I also checked all my hoses and found a few cracked that were causing vacuum leaks, replaced those. Still stalling at idle. I replaced the fuel filter (I should mention I have a 99 2.7 and for some insane reason, it's installed right under the intake manifold - replacing that suckeddddddddddd). Still stalled. I kept coming back to the MAF. I read somewhere that if you tapped on it while it was running and it acted like it was going to stall out, it was bad. At this point, I was ready to try anything as this was my daily driver and stressing me out. I tried it and sure enough it stalled. I called around and found one store in town that had one in stock. I took the old one with me ($60 core charge -wth) and got the new one. Put the new on in and did a test drive around the hood. Drove great. I took it on some roads around town where I could get speed up but still close enough to home that if it stalled, I could get it back. It was doing so well, I took it on the interstate and drove about 50 miles. Came back, set the parking brake, put it in D and let it idle for about an hour, tapped on MAF just to check the craziness and it didn't stall. That's been 3 weeks ago and it's still driving great. Not sure if it helps, lots more experienced people on here, but that's what worked for me. Hope you get it figured out!

p.s. doing this work and seeing all the work people on this forum do, put the bug in me.
Click to expand...

Ill check the same thing on my 3.4...but honestly Im not hopeful :(
 
Sorry for the delay in posting an update on this, work has been way busy. So the stalling at idle was due to the shop screwing up when they replaced my timing belt. 300 miles and 4 days later my crankshaft pulley started coming off due to them not torquing the bolt to the 217 ft lbs needed. The stalling was caused because as the crankshaft pulley backed off it allowed the crankshaft gear to wobble causing the crankshaft position sensor to read incorrectly. When I took the truck back in to the shop it took them two weeks to tell me that it needed a new crankshaft and it would cost 3k to fix.
Luckily I have a friend who is the parts manager at a Toyota dealership. They came and got my vehicle, verified that the shop screwed it up and got it running great. I had to threaten a lawsuit and fight the other shop but they finally refunded my money and payed for the cost of the dealership bill.
As far as the fuel pump goes, I thought it was bad because I could not hear it priming when I turned the key on. As it turns out these fuel pumps only prime and get power to the pump when the engine is being cranked. I believe the crankshaft position sensor is what sends the signal to turn the pump on. I didn't find this out if course until I had my old pump removed and applied a direct 12v to it from my battery. When it turned on I was IL upset and frustrated to say the least because I had just wasted a while day dropping my tank. But when I put the new pump on the bench test in saw how week the old pump was, the new one literally jumped off the bench frim the torque. Better to have replaced the pump now then have it go out on a drive.
It's been a month now and the truck runs better than ever. Moral if the story is take your vehicle to a shop that you know will own up to their mistakes. I realize mistakes can happen but it took me a month of worrying and frustration because the cheaper shop fought me the whole way and tried to take me for an extra 3k that wasn't needed. Luckily I knew enough to know they were full of crap.
 
glad you got your issue fixed.
sounds like something to remember about the crank backing off enough for the positioner to not read correct
 
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