97' SR5 2WD Refresh Parts List? [Updated]

[EveningCommuter]

Edit:

Mechanic checked ball joints, they're good and there is no play.

Installed Bilstein 4600's with OEM Springs.

Replaced end link bushings and sway bar bushings. I still have a squeak when I drive...

Hey peeps. Since I hit a pothole recently that destroyed a 20-year-old shock, I guess I have to refresh my shocks/struts. I have been looking at replacement parts but do not know what recommended aftermarket brand to go with. I would do OEM but it's going to burn a huge hole in my pocket.

This is my first car and the first time I am putting together a parts list. I already have a mechanic that is willing to take on the job, just need to see what I have to pick up before I hand her over to the shop.

Shocks/Struts

Bilstein 4600's Front/Rear (I was going to go 5100's but I would like to remain at stock height.)

(Do I need Shock Absorber Bushings or do they come with the kit above?)

Coil Springs

MOOG 81094 - Front Spring
MOOG 81043 - Rear Spring
MOOG K160030 - Shock Mount

Now for Coil Spring Seat/Insulator's, do I need a set for the top and bottom? I see FRONT UPPER for the MOOG K6705 but the Energy Suspension 96104G's say Rear Lower or Rear Upper for the 4WD. I have a 2WD, will that matter?

I would like to mention that I am keeping the Cone Bump Stop Thing that goes for the rear springs.

Ball Joints

I am going with the MOOG Front End Steering Rebuild Kit, I have seen the Mevotech set which is about 100 dollars cheaper but I do not know the build quality. Don't gasp at the price, I am building the kit from Rock Auto.

Control Arms???

I do not know what to add or what is needed for Control Arms or if I even need new ones.

Sway Bar Bushings???

Any C&C is appreciated! :redbrick:

 

[T4R2014]

That Moog kit is garbageee. Go OEM. Even OEM shocks are better IMO. If not then KYB Gas-a-just.

 

[EveningCommuter]

Ahh, I gotcha. Unfortunately, I cannot fit the bill for OEM stuff right now because of an upcoming trip. I have to make it work somehow because driving around with a broken shock sucks, and so does the ride.

 

[EveningCommuter]

So I picked up a set of Bilstein 4600's from TireRack.

For my spring coils will I need new insulators for both top and bottom? I know the rear ones use the cones and I am keeping them, asking for the front.

 

[phattyduck]

If you are happy with the current ride height, use your stock springs. Avoid basically anything Moog for the 4Runner... (and most Toyotas) I'd run 200k mile Toyota parts over anything Moog.

Check the condition of your front strut tops - they may still be fine. The 4600's come with new upper and lower bushings, I think...

Unless your truck had a hard off road life, your control arm bushings are probably fine. You may need swaybar bushings and end links - just peak your head under there and look... If they are like this, you need new ones:

-Charlie

 

[T4R2014]

Ahh, I gotcha. Unfortunately, I cannot fit the bill for OEM stuff right now because of an upcoming trip. I have to make it work somehow because driving around with a broken shock sucks, and so does the ride.

Bilstein 4600 is much harsher than stock, hence my KYB recommendation(also cheaper/more durable). Lower ball joints must be OEM. Some parts are not worth saving money on.

 

[EveningCommuter]

I’m looking for ride comfort if anything. The 97’ is my daily and I will do some off roading (light trails, nothing too crazy). At this point I might just opt for the KYB because of price and my mechanic recommended it.

As far as springs, I would like to replace them but OEM springs are pricy.

Edit: I’m over thinking this. 4600’s and we’ll go from there.

 

[APhelps]

Unless your truck had a hard off road life, your control arm bushings are probably fine. You may need swaybar bushings and end links - just peak your head under there and look... If they are like this, you need new ones:

-Charlie

I'd wager one of his lower control arm bushings are worn. My T4R has had a fairly easy life (215k) of road driving and one of mine was going bad. Certainly wasn't necessary to replace but its highly probable the bushings are worn.

 

[EveningCommuter]

I'd wager one of his lower control arm bushings are worn. My T4R has had a fairly easy life (215k) of road driving and one of mine was going bad. Certainly wasn't necessary to replace but its highly probable the bushings are worn.

I'll go ahead and give them a look when I get home. If I see any cracks they will be on the list to be replaced.

 

[jremus]

Another brand to consider on a tight budget is Pro-Comp... I might get some hate for mentioning them since from what I've read people dislike them for being the 4WheelsParts house brand and a "cheap brand".

But for a commuter car on SoCal highways, for an owner on a budget.. you're looking at $150 for the front pair, and $90 for the rear pair. You can use your original springs (unless yours are totally destroyed for some reason)

I put ProComp's on mine during New Years weekend because I needed shocks many miles ago, and I honestly just didn't want to spend a ton of money right now. Doing the install myself saved some money also.

If you read threads all over forums they're going to tell you to buy expensive brands and "invest in your ride/future", but honestly there are times that budget and use-case are more important. So for me ~$250 for all four corners now was more appealing. If I hate them or have issues in a year or two then maybe I'll decide to spend bigger money at that time.

 

[T4R2014]

Another brand to consider on a tight budget is Pro-Comp... I might get some hate for mentioning them since from what I've read people dislike them for being the 4WheelsParts house brand and a "cheap brand".

But for a commuter car on SoCal highways, for an owner on a budget.. you're looking at $150 for the front pair, and $90 for the rear pair. You can use your original springs (unless yours are totally destroyed for some reason)

I put ProComp's on mine during New Years weekend because I needed shocks many miles ago, and I honestly just didn't want to spend a ton of money right now. Doing the install myself saved some money also.

If you read threads all over forums they're going to tell you to buy expensive brands and "invest in your ride/future", but honestly there are times that budget and use-case are more important. So for me ~$250 for all four corners now was more appealing. If I hate them or have issues in a year or two then maybe I'll decide to spend bigger money at that time.

That's no better than the cost of KYBs, which I'd argue are a better riding shock than the Bilsteins, and definitely last longer. It's a Japanese company and they even supply shocks to Toyota.

 

[jremus]

That's no better than the cost of KYBs, which I'd argue are a better riding shock than the Bilsteins, and definitely last longer. It's a Japanese company and they even supply shocks to Toyota.

Oh my point was (like yours) that it's a cheaper option than Bilstein. which I know everyone swears by, but, they're definitely more costly for a "first car" when it sounds like the dude's on a budget.
on second glance he's already bought the Bilsteins and going that route. so... money already spent

 

[EveningCommuter]

Hey peeps! So I went ahead and dropped the need for the Control Arms and Ball Joints. If I need to replace those I will be going with OEM.

I also measured my 97' SR5 and received a height of 20" from the Hub Center to the Fender. This applied to all 4 wheels.

My final parts list is as follows, if there are any bushings in need of refreshing before I take it into the shop please let me know.

Bilstein 4600's Front and Rear
Prothane 18-1115 Red 26 mm Front Sway Bar Bushing Kit
Prothane 18-1116 Red 19 mm Rear Sway Bar Bushing Kit
Energy Suspension 8.10103R 4WD RACK & PINION BUSHING SET
Energy Suspension 9.8105R END LINK GROMMETS

I might add:
Energy Suspension 8.3115R CONTROL ARM BUSHING SET

But I do not know if it is needed, I inspected my bushings and they seem intact.

Anything else I am missing or in need of refreshing in terms of bushings?

 

[RandyBobandy]

If you’re doing ball joints definitely go for oem, I’ve used plenty of after market parts on my 97 but ball joint failure is really bad so definitely don’t cheap out on those

Most of this stuff you should be able to diy even if you don’t have a garage, before I got my 4Runner I didn’t even change my own oil but since then I’ve been watching videos and reading how to write ups and most of this stuff is a lot easier than it looks and you can save a lot of money that way

 

[EveningCommuter]

I figured so I am going to go OEM on the ball joints if they're bad.

The shop I am taking to it might do it while they have the wheels off so it would be more of a convenience, if they want to gut me for it then I will just do it on my own.

 

[EveningCommuter]

Good news.

I went and had my shocks/struts/bushings done a few days ago. I had the mechanic inspect the ball joints and there is no play, they should be good for now.

Only issue now is I still hear a squeak when I drive, even after I replaced my bushings/sway bar bushings. Anyone know where to start on the squeak? U-Joints?

 

[phattyduck]

I still hear a squeak when I drive, even after I replaced my bushings/sway bar bushings. Anyone know where to start on the squeak? U-Joints?

We will need a much better description of the squeak...

- metal on metal?
- metal on rubber?
- speed specific?
- brake specific?
- front or rear?
- going over bumps?
- changes with road speed?
- changes with engine speed?

-Charlie

 

[Kanoe]

I had the mechanic inspect the ball joints and there is no play, they should be good for now.

Please be cautious with this statement. Hopefully your mechanic is aware of the ball joint design issue on the 4runner and gave an informed opinion.

My experience has been that mechanics are used to checking other styles of ball joints where a certain amount of wear is allowed, or they are not testing as per the FSM. My pre-purchase inspection stated my ball joints were good. A couple of weeks later I checked and found a bit of play so I replaced them.

Just sharing my experience, it would be a costly thing to ignore.

 

[EveningCommuter]

We will need a much better description of the squeak...

- metal on metal?
- metal on rubber?
- speed specific?
- brake specific?
- front or rear?
- going over bumps?
- changes with road speed?
- changes with engine speed?

-Charlie

Ah yes.

So when beginning to drive I get a small groan/roar from the front of the car. I can feel it by placing my foot on the floor of the drivers side, it goes away eventually.

When driving I still hear the squeak even after changing out the sway bar bushings. It sounds more or less like a metal on rubber as it is not a scratching but an grinding/rubbing squeak. I hear that constant squeak when driving on roads 25 - 40,50, on the highway at 70. When turning I hear this on the front and the rear, when turning around 25 - 30 miles an hour.

I also feel/hear another thing when at a stop and holding the brake down but I do not remember.

 

[thegipper]

The rule of thumb with lower ball joints on these trucks is you replace them every 100k miles with OEM parts only no matter what. It doesn't matter if the LBJ's appear to be fine or if your mechanic says they look fine.

Trust us on this or do a search about the issues with LBJ's. Most of the failures happen without any warning at all.

When I first got my 4R and got on this forum I was making the same argument. There was no play and zero signs that there was anything wrong mine but they had 200k miles on them. After I did a bunch of research and saw the pictures of peoples wheels laying on the side of the road, I decided $160ish bucks for a new set of OEM LBJ's was not worth risking my life or others on the road.

I would put that item at the top of your "to do" list....