98 Rear end rusted out. Swap Advice?

[Mutant]

:help:

1998 T4R 4Runner 4x4 Limited 126200 miles. All stock.

No problems whatsoever with the exception of RUST. Lots of rust on undercarriage and rear end. Would like to keep it and begin a build if I can justify the cost of repairing/replacing rusted out parts. Recently bought this truck through a 3rd party and just found out how bad the rust is. Its a shame because everything else is perfect! Inside and out is like new. Everything works like it should.

Can't check diff fluid in rear end because the all bolts are completely rusted through! Upon closer inspection there is evidence of JB Weld holding diff cover on. SO, its time to swap out the rear end ASAP.

Does anyone have any recommendations for a budget but solid rear end swap? What other models' rear ends will fit this truck, if any? Looking for all options to weigh pros/cons & factor in cost.

I'd really like to put in gears for 35" tires, lockers, and gradually build up. But I may be better off going with another 4Runner rear end from a junk yard. :help:

Looking for guys who have experience swapping 4Runner rear ends to chime in. Thanks

 

[TheDurk]

How is the frame? No sense in doing diff/suspension if your lower control arm bracket is about to break off or your shock mount rips through.

My frame died before the rest did. (See thread in sig. No fun.)

 

[BrianK14]

I have a completely rust free rear end housing that you could swap your axles and 3rd member into. Compatible with ABS and 16" wheels Not Elocker. PM me if interested.

 

[Scramble]

:help:

1998 T4R 4Runner 4x4 Limited 126200 miles. All stock.

No problems whatsoever with the exception of RUST. Lots of rust on undercarriage and rear end. Would like to keep it and begin a build if I can justify the cost of repairing/replacing rusted out parts. Recently bought this truck through a 3rd party and just found out how bad the rust is. Its a shame because everything else is perfect! Inside and out is like new. Everything works like it should.

Can't check diff fluid in rear end because the all bolts are completely rusted through! Upon closer inspection there is evidence of JB Weld holding diff cover on. SO, its time to swap out the rear end ASAP.

Does anyone have any recommendations for a budget but solid rear end swap? What other models' rear ends will fit this truck, if any? Looking for all options to weigh pros/cons & factor in cost.

I'd really like to put in gears for 35" tires, lockers, and gradually build up. But I may be better off going with another 4Runner rear end from a junk yard. :help:

Looking for guys who have experience swapping 4Runner rear ends to chime in. Thanks

Post pics of the entire undercarriage. You might have gotten a rust bucket from up North.

 

[Mutant]

The frame is not great but I'm hoping its salvageable. But you can see it flaking off in one of the photos.

This one came from St. Louis area. I think it was driven on a lot of salted roads and then must have been put in storage without washing the salt off. All I can figure anyway.

 

[Scramble]

Sorry man, yep, thats salt. try poking a hole through the bad spots on the frame with a screw driver. The right rear shock doesn't even look like it's in the shock mount. Unless that's a drain hole.

 

[theesotericone]

Not a drain hole. That's the upper shock mount hole. It really hurts to see all that rust. Rust makes me sad.

 

[Scramble]

Not a drain hole. That's the upper shock mount hole. It really hurts to see all that rust. Rust makes me sad.

Me too, if the outside is flaking like that, the inside of the frame is shot.

 

[theesotericone]

Me too, if the outside is flaking like that, the inside of the frame is shot.

Most likely. I've seen worse repaired though. I hate to rain on the OP's parade but it's gonna take a lot of time and effort to make the needed repairs. Like you said, some probing with a screwdriver and hammer will go a long way in finding out for sure. Actually, I said hammer but I like to be certain. lol

 

[TheDurk]

That actually looks WORSE than my frame did just before the LCA bracket failed. (They rust from the inside out.) Slide a screwdriver around that lower control arm against the floor of the frame inside the bracket. See if you can hammer through.

I just told another guy his rust didn't look that bad. Yours does.

 

[NWFL4Runner]

I'd bang/poke on that LCA mount too. That looks suspiciously close to falling apart.

That entire rear end looks like it should be tossed, but a somewhat expensive waste of money if the shock mounts/UCA/LCA mounts are rotted as you'll need to fab those up. How's the front look, equally bad?

Edit: Now I see that I basically parroted what TheDurk said to start with...

 

[theesotericone]

That actually looks WORSE than my frame did just before the LCA bracket failed. (They rust from the inside out.) Slide a screwdriver around that lower control arm against the floor of the frame inside the bracket. See if you can hammer through.

I just told another guy his rust didn't look that bad. Yours does.

 

[nissanh]

The only way forward is a complete frame swap with axles and suspension parts. I am sure none of the nuts/bolts will come out with a wrench. When did you buy the truck? Did you buy it "as is"?

 

[jtnumberthree]

Dang, that doesn't look good.

 

[Mark_BC]

Man... The last time a thread like this came up with one that had only 60K miles, someone asked, "What did she store it in, brine???". Exactly!!! That's what happens when you drive it in salt and let it sit there.

That thing looks ugly, I don't know what to say but you can either do a frame swap like TheDurk did (good luck), cut your losses and resell it to see what you can get, or maybe a miracle will happen and the frame is still salvageable and you can weld some strengthening plates on what little metal remains.

 

[Moonbandit]

I'll have a different point of view!

It is NOT that bad. It is not great as everyone else has noted, but honestly you do not have giant holes as I have seen in the past.
Plus if there are areas that need a small weld patch, the welds are likely to outlive the darn body/engine/tranny to begin with.

People need to take a chill pill. :yo:

Sand, grind, wirebrush etc.. then paint plus oil spray the heck out of the undercarriage and it will be fine for another 10 years. People here are paranoid and get their panties in a bunch.:fencing:

Is it going to be purty and perfect for a build? probably not, but everyone is guessing you did not pay 10K for it:becky: so whatever, it will be fine.

Just noticed you're in Texas, so the rust may scare you. ... I'm in the midwest and I think it is fine. All relative - such is life.

 

[Mark_BC]

People need to take a chill pill. :yo:

Sand, grind, wirebrush etc.. then paint plus oil spray the heck out of the undercarriage and it will be fine for another 10 years. People here are paranoid and get their panties in a bunch.:fencing:

True, I guess we should wait and see the results of his hammer and screw driver whacking test.

 

[thegipper]

Although that frame is far from perfect, I've seen a lot worse that was salvageable.

You need to do the hammer/screw driver test and see if it is in fact rotted or if the outside is just rusty/scaly. My frame is rock solid and although it didn't look as bad as yours, it would have scared the shit out of many on here.

If the frame isn't actually rotted, than it can be saved but it will take a lot of work/time to clean it all up. Even if it is rotted (depending on where and how bad), it may be able to be saved.

Keep us posted and give us some more pictures. If you start pounding on the frame and you start punching holes in every spot, it's done. If it is solid in most areas and has a few soft spots (depending where they are at), it most certainly can be saved.

Good luck either way!

 

[TheDurk]

I'll have a different point of view!

It is NOT that bad. It is not great as everyone else has noted, but honestly you do not have giant holes as I have seen in the past.
Plus if there are areas that need a small weld patch, the welds are likely to outlive the darn body/engine/tranny to begin with.

People need to take a chill pill. :yo:

Sand, grind, wirebrush etc.. then paint plus oil spray the heck out of the undercarriage and it will be fine for another 10 years. People here are paranoid and get their panties in a bunch.:fencing:

Is it going to be purty and perfect for a build? probably not, but everyone is guessing you did not pay 10K for it:becky: so whatever, it will be fine.

Just noticed you're in Texas, so the rust may scare you. ... I'm in the midwest and I think it is fine. All relative - such is life.

Sure, we have all seen worse. But all most of us have said is it looks bad enough to check thoroughly how sound the frame is. If you think that is paranoid or bad advice, I don't want you working on my rig. You cannot say from those pics that all that rust is surface and can be treated as you suggest or that a small weld patch is the most it will need.

As I said, my frame looked better than that until THIS happened:

 

[Mutant]

Thanks for all the comments guys. Any info or experience is appreciated. As you assumed, being in Texas I haven't dealt with serious rust issues before.

I will start checking everything with a hammer and screwdriver when I get time. Work is really busy.

Yes, it looks bad. I'm still trying to be optimistic about saving it until I can prove its a lost cause.

I'm thinking realistically too. What route do you recommend if the rust has already won? Part out, salvage yard, etc? Would like to get some money back out of it.

126200 miles. Everything runs great. Interior in great shape.