99 4r wont start when cold

imboredeveryday

New member
i have a 99 4runner that it will start and just die when its cold but if u get it started and rev it then its fine for the rest of the day no vacum leaks found or ck engine light on any ideas just cleaned the throttle body maybe 3 weeks ago when doing the v-covers
 
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bascially it just stalls out u turn the key on engine starts then just stalls out but once u get it running its fine and all idle low for a second then after that comes back to normal if its warmed up then it runs fine afterwards i was trying to clean the injectors out to see if there dirty or cloged but cant get the fuel lines to split so i cant get the cleaner to clean them out
 
Punctuation, grammar, syntax, etc. will all help better convey your message. I had to read that several times to get some modicum of usable information, and even now I'm unsure if I fully comprehend what you're saying...

There are fuel injector cleaners that can applied by simply putting them in the tank. I'm not sure it's not the injectors, but let's do the diagnosis dance.

The problem (from what I can gather) only occurs when the engine is cold upon starting.

Systems at play in the scenario are the starter, fuel, and ignition. The starter sounds fine. Ignition is fine the rest of the time, thus probably not the culprit here. That leaves fuel. When an engine is just starting/is cold, the fuel system compensates by richening the mixture. This is noticeable on the tach by an idle RPM in the range of... 1K-1.5K on this particular engine off the top of my head. Once you get it started, where does it idle?

If I'm correct, it should be idling (and not entirely smoothly at first) in the 800 RPM or so range. If this is the case, the fuel system is not richening the mixture to compensate for the low engine temperatures, it's running relatively lean, and that's causing it to die.

Unfortunately, this is where I start to get a little flakey. I'm used to very old cars with carburetors and chokes and such, and I'm not 100% sure how it's handled in cars this new. Engines are engines, they haven't changed much over the last 140 years or so, but specifics within systems have changed a bit. That said, take the following for what it's worth:

You might be able to confirm my theory by giving it a LITTLE throttle upon startup. Sort of blip it, maybe 2 inches total pedal travel and back, and the fuel injector equivalent of an accelerator pump should richen the mixture momentarily long enough to get it to turn over. You might have to feather it quickly a few times to keep it going at that point. This will only work in the case of a modern fuel injector accelerator pump equivalent, which may not be the case on these cars.

I imagine there is a thermostatic sensor that might have gone bad related to richening the a/f mixture at startup. Can someone confirm the existence and role of such a sensor on these particular cars?

Another thought just popped in my head, and this may be even more off base; again, I'm really not totally familiar yet with the newer fuel injection setups (the latest I'm familiar with are the Bosch units from the 70s). If there IS an accelerator pump equivalent in the fuel systems here, AND it's part of the problem, if you go from a steady cruise at 2K RPM or so, then floor it the engine should stumble due to a momentary lean condition. It'll pick back up again quickly (assuming it didn't die). Again, I feel it's more likely that this is NOT the case as the injectors are very close to the cylinders compared to some of the older carb to injection transition period systems, but just in case it's a possibility. I think more likely, the TPS sends a signal to the FI computer and just squirts a bit more fuel in the cylinders... This just takes us back to the thermostatic sensor though...

I hope I didn't confuse things too much, hopefully someone with a bit more familiarity with these engines will chime in soon.
 
no i understand what you are saying. also tried to hook up a scanner to see maybe it has pending codes well no communication there but fuses r good so have to diag down from there now also and from what ive been told so far it is either a throtle postion sensor or coolant temp sensor . still workin on it kind of hard to with the florida rain that never makes sense and the fuel injector cleaner i have is the same kind they use at the dealerships where they run it in the fuel lines
 
also anyone have wiring diagrams from the ob2 port so i can trace wires ive got 4 wires one has about 12.4 2 are ground and one is giving me 9.4vs so i no that wire needs to be followed to find out what is wrong
 

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