99 4Runner Hand Brake Issue Emergency

Garcia9876

New member
Today in the afternoon noon I was driving my 4Runner from Burbank To Los Angeles using the freeway driving around 60 - 70 mph. The problem was I forgot to release the handbrake to start driving and my dashboard the brake light was on with driving. I noticed after 1.5 miles I get off the freeway.

Another issue will be my truck starts running with handbrake on.

But I need to pull the handbrake all the way to the top to prevent running.


My question is

what is the diagnosis for my truck? (Any idea)
 
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Today in the afternoon noon I was driving my 4Runner from Burbank To Los Angeles using the freeway driving around 60 - 70 mph. The problem was I forgot to release the handbrake to start driving and my dashboard the brake light was on with driving. I noticed after 1.5 miles I get off the freeway.

Another issue will be my truck starts running with handbrake on.

But I need to pull the handbrake all the way to the top to prevent running.


My question is

what is the diagnosis for my truck? (Any idea)


I read this three times and I have no idea what you are talking about. Try again.
 
Today in the afternoon noon I was driving my 4Runner from Burbank To Los Angeles using the freeway driving around 60 - 70 mph. The problem was I forgot to release the handbrake to start driving and my dashboard the brake light was on with driving. I noticed after 1.5 miles I get off the freeway.

Another issue will be my truck starts running with handbrake on.

But I need to pull the handbrake all the way to the top to prevent running.


My question is

what is the diagnosis for my truck? (Any idea)


I read this three times and I have no idea what you are talking about. Try again.

I just smoked a fat bowl — let me take a shot at this...

So OP, if I understand correctly, you drove with your ebrake on for a mile and a half then noticed it after you exited the freeway.

So question one: Did you damage anything? Well my "guess" is probably no but maybe yes. Your rear brakes aren't working very well so I doubt there was much friction or heat build-up. But maybe I'm wrong and you cooked them.

Question two would be why did your ebrake not work? My guess is either your brakes are not adjusted properly and/or you have a leaking axle seal and your rear brakes are coated in diff oil (but not yet swollen) so they pretty much don't work.

IDK I'm just guessing at all this.
 
The rear brakes on 3rd 4runners suuuucccckkkkk. I am constantly having to adjust the drums.

If its been awhile since you have replaced the rear brakes, replace the rear brakes. If you recently had your brakes replaced then look up how to adjust the rear drums. Really easy. If you have to adjust your rear brakes a good distance, I would bleed your brakes lines as well. Just encase there is air in the system. I know! I know!, we have self bleeding brake system. But manually bleeding your brakes will give you better results.

Adjusting your rear brakes by pulling the ebrake up quickly several times will not work unless your rear brakes are in excellent mechanical condition. If you are asking this question I doubt they are, so MANUALLY adjust your REAR brakes. One man job, requires a flat had, and you do not have to jack up your car or remove the tire. Super easy.

Bleeding the brakes takes a 8mm wrench? Depends on your bleeder screw. Also requires a buddy to press the brakes while you open the screw. And then top off your reservoir. Probably a good idea for you to replace the fluid in your reservoir BEFORE doing this so your putting fresh fluid in your lines. If you look at your reservoir is it black? Ya, that fluid is not suppose to be black.
 
Today in the afternoon noon I was driving my 4Runner from Burbank To Los Angeles using the freeway driving around 60 - 70 mph. The problem was I forgot to release the handbrake to start driving and my dashboard the brake light was on with driving. I noticed after 1.5 miles I get off the freeway.

Another issue will be my truck starts running with handbrake on.

But I need to pull the handbrake all the way to the top to prevent running.


My question is

what is the diagnosis for my truck? (Any idea)


OK, let me take a stab at this, I speak several languages including drunkenese and ebonics.

After driving on the freeway at 60-70 mph., he noticed he had left the parking brake on 1 1/2 miles after he had exited the freeway. Now the truck rolls with the parking brake on unless it is pulled all the way to the top. So what up with the truck?

I don't know what kind of brake you have. Mine has a long bolt and nut next to the handle I have tightened to take up slack in the brake.
 
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info

The rear brakes on 3rd 4runners suuuucccckkkkk. I am constantly having to adjust the drums.

If its been awhile since you have replaced the rear brakes, replace the rear brakes. If you recently had your brakes replaced then look up how to adjust the rear drums. Really easy. If you have to adjust your rear brakes a good distance, I would bleed your brakes lines as well. Just encase there is air in the system. I know! I know!, we have self bleeding brake system. But manually bleeding your brakes will give you better results.

Adjusting your rear brakes by pulling the ebrake up quickly several times will not work unless your rear brakes are in excellent mechanical condition. If you are asking this question I doubt they are, so MANUALLY adjust your REAR brakes. One man job, requires a flat had, and you do not have to jack up your car or remove the tire. Super easy.

Bleeding the brakes takes a 8mm wrench? Depends on your bleeder screw. Also requires a buddy to press the brakes while you open the screw. And then top off your reservoir. Probably a good idea for you to replace the fluid in your reservoir BEFORE doing this so your putting fresh fluid in your lines. If you look at your reservoir is it black? Ya, that fluid is not suppose to be black.

No. I disagree.

Make sure you apply the park brake every time you stop the truck. The park brake lever will automatically adjusts the rear brakes.
It will not adjust if the left side and right side brake hardware has been switched.
 
I had the same problem a while back but I think it's different then yours. But while I looked into the problem I found all sorts of solutions. You need to pull the e-brake a bunch of times (sounds dumb) but park your car in the driveway, but you could do it at every red light if u wanted, and push the button in and pull the lever over and over again. This should adjust the brakes in the rear. It could take u 60+ pulls if it's that out. I had to replace my bellcrank(?) on the rear brakes due to them seizing up and just not working at all. I could do 60+ pull the e-brake and not even feel it slow at all. Even pulled up all the way I could still drive without any problems lol. But should be an easy fix if it does work when pulled all the way up, likein your case. So just pull that e-brake and use it religiously just to constantly adjust the rear brakes.
 
No. I disagree.

Make sure you apply the park brake every time you stop the truck. The park brake lever will automatically adjusts the rear brakes.
It will not adjust if the left side and right side brake hardware has been switched.

So wrong.

That will only work if the adjustment mechanism is clean. And pulling your ebrake when you park will not do a dag gum thing as far as adjusting the brakes.

When you pull your emergency brake it pushes the pads out making contact with the drum. It also pushes a little lever up that should catch teeth on the adjustment mechanism, turning it out. That little lever is spring loaded and if the adjustment mechanism its too hard to turn then the lever will pop off the teeth and go over it. Not doing anything.

Also you can sit in your car pulling your ebrake 60+ not knowing for sure if it adjusted BOTH rear brakes. Or you can get under you car and manually do it. Manually doing it will give you confirmation that BOTH brakes have been adjusted and you will have better results.
 
The important part of the ebrake adjustment is using the FSM and setting the proper gap with the springs removed from the bell cranks of each ebrake arm.

After removing the springs and pulling back on each arm and setting the gap with those bolts to .031 or whatever the FSM says. You should hear around 7 klicks till the ebrake is tight.

After the ebrake slack is properly set you will notice the rear brakes will hold their adjustment. Or that's what I noticed after I took the time.

Then adjust your rear brake adjusters till you hear the shoes rubbing the drum while spinning the rear wheels. Have both rear wheels in the air at the same time doing this.

Doing this above also returns your brake pedal to a nice firm feel.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Still wrong

So wrong.

That will only work if the adjustment mechanism is clean. And pulling your ebrake when you park will not do a dag gum thing as far as adjusting the brakes.

When you pull your emergency brake it pushes the pads out making contact with the drum. It also pushes a little lever up that should catch teeth on the adjustment mechanism, turning it out. That little lever is spring loaded and if the adjustment mechanism its too hard to turn then the lever will pop off the teeth and go over it. Not doing anything.

Also you can sit in your car pulling your ebrake 60+ not knowing for sure if it adjusted BOTH rear brakes. Or you can get under you car and manually do it. Manually doing it will give you confirmation that BOTH brakes have been adjusted and you will have better results.


You adjust the brakes only after cleaning the mechanism. So yes, it will adjust.

Clean threads are coming out with the auto adjuster so no way it gets jammed with dirt.
 
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It was hard to get past the "afternoon noon", is that late noon like 12:45?

Sounds like you ground down your real brake pads. You can adjust them with the rear adjusters - do biggie.
 
You adjust the brakes only after cleaning the mechanism. So yes, it will adjust.

Clean threads are coming out with the auto adjuster so no way it gets jammed with dirt.

Seized rear brake adjustment mechanism are documented many times on this site. Also I have seen this myself working on other 4runners.

"Clean threads are coming out" :pound: :pound: :pound: Nissan do you hear yourself??? That is like asking why a seized bolt will not come out because "clean threads" should be coming out. You sound like you have zero experience.
 
How about we leave it at this.

A properly working and cared for rear brake system will self adjust when the brake is applied.

A shitty never taken care of rusted out worn drum and shoe rear brake system will not self-adjust.
 
How about we leave it at this.



A properly working and cared for rear brake system will self adjust when the brake is applied.



A shitty never taken care of rusted out worn drum and shoe rear brake system will not self-adjust.



The key is having the ebrake adjustment and travel set properly. Then any backwards braking or ebrake pulling will do its thing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I can 100% guarantee that, at least on the larger drum brakes, the handbrake will set the adjustment. I have rebuilt more drum brakes on various vehicles than I care to recall. They have all used nearly the same, except the 40s CJ2A brakes I did. The biggest thing that gets forgotten,including by myself, is the proper routing for the short cable section inside the drum. If it doesn't go into it's little track, it doesn't work well.
When you apply the handbrake, it does activate the adjuster. If there is enough play in the shoes, the sprocket advances and more, clean, threads come out of the adjuster body.
The adjusting screw can become gummed up, but the threads aren't where it matters. It's on the rotating porting at the end. This needs to be lubricated for proper operation.

Have a good day.
 
What's the procedure for manually adjusting the drums?
I had the rear end clunk and did new grease in all the zerks on the driveline. Helped a lot but it was still there. I did the ebrake in reverse a few times and that seems to have gotten all the clunk gone but they still don't bite very good when. The ebrake is pulled. I figure they are pretty shot but would like to try and manually adjust them before I look into getting the shoes replaced.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 
What's the procedure for manually adjusting the drums?
I had the rear end clunk and did new grease in all the zerks on the driveline. Helped a lot but it was still there. I did the ebrake in reverse a few times and that seems to have gotten all the clunk gone but they still don't bite very good when. The ebrake is pulled. I figure they are pretty shot but would like to try and manually adjust them before I look into getting the shoes replaced.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk



With both rear wheels up in the air spin a wheel. You should hear slight rubbing of the shoes against the drum.

If you don't there is a hard rubber cover on the backing plate that gets removed. Inside that slot is a star wheel that you can turn by putting a screwdriver against it and push. It will only spin in one direction and will klick while turning it.

It you get it too tight you will need a flashlight and a second small screwdriver. Locate the arm and push it away from the star wheel and spin it the other direction.

Hint.......That arm you push out of the way to loosen the brakes it what spins the star wheel in the tight direction when the ebrake is set and the ebrake travel with the bell cranks on each backing plate is set correctly.

Edit: first thing you should do is pull each drum and see how much brake material is left and take a grinder to the inside surface and remove any lip that you can feel or see. If not and there is a lip present it may or will prevent you from removing the rear drums without backing off the adjusters first.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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