A_S_R's Build Thread

Local member took me out and showed me around a few back road trails. Had a blast and finally got a chance to play with the new suspension setup. VERY pleased with the tires, seemed to handle everything well. Didn't see any mud, mostly rocks and loose gravel. Suspension worked very well. Only issue is that I discovered that even at 4" of lift, there is still a good bit of rubbing, even with minor flex. I'm rubbing on the rear of the fender well in both the back and the front. The back can be fixed by removing the rear mud flaps, not too sure what I can do on the front. Here's few pics from the day. Nothing crazy, but fun times nonetheless.
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I haven't heard much about the diff breather mod. Can you explain how to do it/ what it is and does? The needs for it? Thanks!
 
I haven't heard much about the diff breather mod. Can you explain how to do it/ what it is and does? The needs for it? Thanks!

Link to the write up I used is in my sig. It's cheap insurance to keep water out of the rear diff when doing water crossings, the stock breather is very low.
 
i always see great reviews on Duratracs on the GM truck forums and i think your pics help sell me on them for my 4Runner. going to buy a set in 265/70/17 tomorrow morning since i think thats the biggest i can fit on my stock suspension.
 
Here's a preview of the new setup, and hopefully the last so I can move on to other areas. More pics to come, still trying to dial things in.
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Are you swapping the air suspension out this time around? or just radflo in the front with the air bags jacked up? how high do you have your air suspension set these days?

Seems like your creeping closer and closer to needing to pull your RAS out.
 
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Wow! you're as bad as me about changing your suspension up...

I think you'll like the radflo stuff, it's definitely the best riding system I've used.

Why not get the back shocks to match?
 
Yea, still running the air bags (roughly 2.5"lift) and 5100 rear shocks. Funding didn't allow for the rear kit, but I hope to have it done in a month or two. Like Matt said, I change things up way too much. I should have went this route to begin with, would've been much cheaper. I've not driven much and still have some adjusting to do, but so far I love the ride. It's amazing how little the 5100s are in comparison, couldn't imagine the ow 2.5 kit.
 
Ark is it rubbing when turning and flexing or while wheels are straight and flexed. Might need to remove the spacers to help stop the rubbing and maybe do a slight body mount chop.
 
Ark is it rubbing when turning and flexing or while wheels are straight and flexed. Might need to remove the spacers to help stop the rubbing and maybe do a slight body mount chop.

I only rub on the driver side and when turning. This happens at times on road and pretty often off road. So far there had been no contact with the body mount. The tire is rubbing the fender. I'm thinking caster may be off. I had am alignment after the tires and ucas, but wasn't given a final printout. I haven't used that shop before, but they came highly recommended so I wasn't too concerned. Once I get the front adjusted just like I want, I'm going to go to another shop for an alignment and see if they can set the caster higher which should help.

I thought about removing the spacers, but I don't think I can clear the uca without them. I have found some 1" hub centric spacers that I'm considering, but I'm not sure if that would be enough to make a difference.
 
I had a nightmare of a time getting my fj aligned, all the tecs told me more caster wouldn't fix it. So they added more caster and it fixed it, also what helped was leveling out the lean made it easier for the tec. Good luck I'm sure you'll get it figured out.

Ps somewhere on the fjforums theirs a post about how aftermarket uca make rubbing in the back of the wheel well more. So you need to run upwards of 3.5 and up to get proper Clearance
 
I had a nightmare of a time getting my fj aligned, all the tecs told me more caster wouldn't fix it. So they added more caster and it fixed it, also what helped was leveling out the lean made it easier for the tec. Good luck I'm sure you'll get it figured out.

Ps somewhere on the fjforums theirs a post about how aftermarket uca make rubbing in the back of the wheel well more. So you need to run upwards of 3.5 and up to get proper Clearance

Yea, I've read that on the ucas. I know a guy that's a service tech at a local shop, I'm going to talk to him and hopefully get something worked out.
 
Haven't really had a good chance for a photo op since the OW kit was put on. I've adjusted them to be the same height as before, only difference is I got rid of about 1/2" driver side lean. Currently sitting at slightly over 4" lift based on a stock 4runner I measured the other day (don't have my original numbers). I also raised the rear up a little more to put some rake in it, really like the current stance.

The end link bushings on my front swaybar are shot. Looks like replacements are over $100, I'd probably get some beefy ones if I were to replace them. I'm gonna see how it performs with it removed, may just leave it off.

I'm still debating swapping the rear out. Want to do it, just don't know that I have the desire to rip out a working system with the RAS (it does come in handy at times). Other than that, I really don't expect any other mods in the near future...other things are beginning to take priority.

OW installed (sorry for the crappy cell phone pic):
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Loaded up ready to ride:
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I personally didn't have any trouble without the front swaybar, and I have lighter coils than you so you will probably be ok.

I ended up putting mine back on because I've been letting the princess do some highway driving and I don't feel as comfortable with her driving as my own lol... But you will probably be ok without it.

Also I think I saw someone post about some non-OEM front links the other day that were only about $30 per side.
 
I personally didn't have any trouble without the front swaybar, and I have lighter coils than you so you will probably be ok.

I ended up putting mine back on because I've been letting the princess do some highway driving and I don't feel as comfortable with her driving as my own lol... But you will probably be ok without it.

Also I think I saw someone post about some non-OEM front links the other day that were only about $30 per side.

Thanks for the heads up. Now that you mention it, seems like I read that and they were from Rock Auto. I'll price them. I remember looking at some Moog's but it was still pushing $100. At that point, I'll just go with some HD ones. Been eyeing these, gonna see how it does without the swaybar first.
Red Eye Fabrication - NorCal FJs
 

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