AC not cold after off-roading

[mendozer]

I went hiking a few weeks ago and the forest road was pretty nasty especially at the end. It was a mix of mud/snow and I even slid into the embankment and got stuck, requiring a quick pull out from another guy. Since that day my AC has not blown cold. I can't think of why that day matters, but it's the only thing I can think of. Belt tension seems fine, nothing smells weird when it's on, it just doesn't get cold. Granted, its a 2002, but it was perfectly fine before this.

Think all the jostling around ruptured something like a condenser line? not sure where to begin on diagnostics

 

[96RedRunner]

Condenser & Rad dirty ?
Start it up turn A/C on look at freon charge in site glass bubbles it's low.

 

[mendozer]

radiator is clean as is the fluid, that was flushed and filled in january. I'll check the freon level when I have time. I rented the vacuum pump and gauge set from oreilly to do a test and if it passes, I have the 134A to refill. if it doesn't pass....well then i have a new problem

 

[mendozer]

Manifold hooked up and set up the AC to high, doors open like FSM says....no pressure readout at all. The gauge knobs were indeed open.

Then I set a vacuum to the system to the lowest I could get (-30 on the low side) and closed valves, came back 10-15 minutes later, still at -30. So there's not an obvious leak.

As for the sight glass, I don't know what's normal. The manual says it should froth a bit right after turning off then go clear. I think it does that, but I ran over to see from the driver side so maybe it was clear the whole time. During operation, I'm not sure if there are bubbles. It looks like clear liquid is swirling around in there but a bit of white foam...are those bubbles? I would need to see an example of an obvious bad sign.

The major deficit is that nothing happened on the manifold~!

 

[azrex]

I would probably let it sit under vacuum for an hour or two and then check it. The only way I can think of that it could lose the refrigerant and not have a leak is if the pressure relief valve opened and then closed after releasing the refrigerant.

 

[Bad Luck]

Manifold hooked up and set up the AC to high, doors open like FSM says....no pressure readout at all. The gauge knobs were indeed open.

Then I set a vacuum to the system to the lowest I could get (-30 on the low side) and closed valves, came back 10-15 minutes later, still at -30. So there's not an obvious leak.

As for the sight glass, I don't know what's normal. The manual says it should froth a bit right after turning off then go clear. I think it does that, but I ran over to see from the driver side so maybe it was clear the whole time. During operation, I'm not sure if there are bubbles. It looks like clear liquid is swirling around in there but a bit of white foam...are those bubbles? I would need to see an example of an obvious bad sign.

The major deficit is that nothing happened on the manifold~!

If your compressor clutch is engaged then you have a problem with your gauges. Compressor clutch will not engage unless there is enough pressure in the system

 

[mendozer]

I decided to try the manifold test again and realized that I did not have the Schrader valve depressed on the service ports of the car. And I ran the test and found 5 to 10 PSI on the low side and about 140 psi on the high side. Both much lower than factory specifications. I'm doing a vacuum test right now

 

[alumarine]

I decided to try the manifold test again and realized that I did not have the Schrader valve depressed on the service ports of the car. And I ran the test and found 5 to 10 PSI on the low side and about 140 psi on the high side. Both much lower than factory specifications. I'm doing a vacuum test right now

Was that with the vehicle running and the A/C on?

 

[mendozer]

Yup. 1500 rpm, windows open, recirculate.

So far it's been 34 minutes and it's lost 3 psi of vacuum from -30 to -27. It seemed to be good for a while then I came back and saw a drop. But it dropped like 15 minutes ago and since has been the same. I'm gonna give it a little extra but I'll have to leave for an errand and come back

 

[mendozer]

ok i did the recharge using the process outlined in Timmy's video, loading into the low side with the engine running at the above specs. During further testing I was trying to get numbers again and I think I drained all the freon out. oops! I believe the valve in the kit I rented isn't functioning right. It holds a vacuum in the yellow line, but if any pressure comes out through either the low or high side of the manifold, it leaves through the yellow line.

So i basically started from 0 recharging things. I got it up to 34/215 psi on the low/high. that's within the specs (21.7-36.2/198.7-227.7) and just like in Timmy's video I disconnected the high side then tried to drain pressure back into the low side, problem is the valve on yellow leaks so instead it leaked out that way, potentially lowering my system pressure too, but I stopped it soon after I realized what was happening. During the recharge I got the temperature down to 46 degrees in the cabin, started from 97. I may want to try this on my wife car too, it's not warm like mine, but it's only 6 bucks a can for freon, why the heck not! Then I'll top mine off as needed.

So...maybe the off roading was just coincidence? It is a 2002 and I never recharged it owning it in january 2016.

 

[96RedRunner]

Drier looks original they have a service life should have changed it, perfect time since you had guages and pump in hand.

$25.00 for drier is pocket change compared to cost if desiccant cartridge breaks up and gets in system.

Ask me how I know !

 

[mendozer]

that requires discharging the freon. how did you store it?

 

[96RedRunner]

that requires discharging the freon. how did you store it?

I didn't, red n blue hoses connected yellow in bucket of water opened valves.

 

[mendozer]

Wouldn't that just disperse into the water? The FSM says to discharge before removing the cylinder

 

[96RedRunner]

Disperse into water same as discharge of system not capturing it for recycle, water captures the oil and gas vapors.
I don't use gauges for charging Runners system, 2 12oz cans is dead on in the +- operating charge range.
Charging/topping off with guages ambient temps/humidity come into play somewhat a guessing game, a weighed charge is the easiest most accurate way for small systems like this.