AC not very cold

[judoant]

My AC is blowing 68 degrees on a 90 degree day and has been doing so for years. Today i finally bought an AC Pro recharge kit. With the car running and on full AC the gauge reads in the green.

For the past couple of years the compressor would squeal a real quick every-time it kicked on.

Whats next?

Thanks

 

[Bad Luck]

My AC is blowing 68 degrees on a 90 degree day and has been doing so for years. Today i finally bought an AC Pro recharge kit. With the car running and on full AC the gauge reads in the green.

For the past couple of years the compressor would squeal a real quick every-time it kicked on.

Whats next?

Thanks

Sounds like a loose/worn/glazed ac compressor belt for your noise. I can only guess on the temperature drop without knowing low side/high side pressures, ambient temp and humidity. Could be a weak compressor or it could be normal for temperature AND humidity.

 

[judoant]

Its 91 and 54% humidity today. I have no way to determine pressure numbers with the tools i currently have. I don't know what I would need for that or if i could even get access.

Every other newer car I am in blows much colder then mine. I was under the impression it should blow somewhere around 40 degrees regardless.

 

[azrex]

Its 91 and 54% humidity today. I have no way to determine pressure numbers with the tools i currently have. I don't know what I would need for that or if i could even get access.

Every other newer car I am in blows much colder then mine. I was under the impression it should blow somewhere around 40 degrees regardless.

You can borrow (rent) a gauge set from Autozone. The gauges on those cans are notoriously inaccurate.

In the automotive world, 40 degrees below ambient is considered acceptable. There can also be a noticeable difference in vehicles, even if they're the same make and model.

Is it colder when you're moving verses sitting at a light?
The heater valve is completely closed?
The ductwork under the dash is intact?

 

[Bad Luck]

Its 91 and 54% humidity today. I have no way to determine pressure numbers with the tools i currently have. I don't know what I would need for that or if i could even get access.

Every other newer car I am in blows much colder then mine. I was under the impression it should blow somewhere around 40 degrees regardless.

It all depends on ambient temps and humidity. Also, you should be checking pressures with the windows down, ac on, set as cold as possible, blower motor on high, recirculate on, vehicle in park and at 1500 rpm's. Azrex is correct, 40 degrees temperature drop is good. Modern vehicles have more electronics to assist the ac system as well as more efficient compressors/condensers/evaporator.

 

[calimobber]

Like others said should be 40 cooler inside car.

If you want to do it right rent the a/c gauges from autozone or orielly( I bought a kit for $100 on amazon) or something and drain/ refill yourself. I replaced my condensor and drier and then I followed chris fix video for refilling and it was surprissingly easy. People are very wrong when they always saying take to ac professional, anyone can work on a/c trust me.



How to Properly Recharge Your AC System - YouTube

 

[Brian.]

People are very wrong when they always saying take to ac professional, anyone can work on a/c trust me.

That's true for the parts replacement aspect, but you're crapping up the environment if you're just letting refrigerant loose and not recapturing it. *THAT* is what a Pro can offer that's just not feasible for the home DIYer ($1000 entry cost). Thankfully most shops will Happily recapture anything in the system, you do the work, and you can either let them fill or spend a little more and fill yourself.

Don't be *That Guy* who just vents refrigerant to the atmosphere. Be better than *That Guy*.... *That Guy* is a dick.

 

[judoant]

You can borrow (rent) a gauge set from Autozone. The gauges on those cans are notoriously inaccurate.

In the automotive world, 40 degrees below ambient is considered acceptable. There can also be a noticeable difference in vehicles, even if they're the same make and model.

Is it colder when you're moving verses sitting at a light?
The heater valve is completely closed?
The ductwork under the dash is intact?

It is much cooler when the car is moving.
Duct work seems good.
Not sure about the heater valve.

 

[azrex]

It is much cooler when the car is moving.
Duct work seems good.
Not sure about the heater valve.

That speaks to airflow through the condenser.
Check for dirt or debris clogging the fins and check the fan clutch for proper operation.

 

[weekendclimber]

I just posted a video in the Maintenance Videos thread. This goes through recharging everything on the last half. You wouldn't need to test the vacuum or anything, but it's really simple if you rent the gauges (or buy them for <$50).

 

[JohnMc]

That's true for the parts replacement aspect, but you're crapping up the environment if you're just letting refrigerant loose and not recapturing it. *THAT* is what a Pro can offer that's just not feasible for the home DIYer ($1000 entry cost). Thankfully most shops will Happily recapture anything in the system, you do the work, and you can either let them fill or spend a little more and fill yourself.

Don't be *That Guy* who just vents refrigerant to the atmosphere. Be better than *That Guy*.... *That Guy* is a dick.

/\ /\ /\ Hear, hear! I bought a vacuum pump and manifold gauge set, and a big tank of R134A, but all I'd ever do with that is work on systems that are already empty (converted a few empty old R12 systems, fixed a couple of R134a systems that had leaked out) but the thing I can NOT do is safely empty a pressurized system.

In that situation, take it by the local A/C shop and have them drain it. Then work on it. Then take it back and have them recharge it (since they charge for a drain/fill, and they're not charging for the R134a they extracted for the system). It was about $70 for that.