Across the Mojave with Dennis

TOPDECK

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*Warning* Not for the “TLDR” crowd.

I am deciding to post this here instead of the general off-road forum because all though this thread is about mostly off-roading and overland travel I think it might also prove to be a testament to those seeking to purchase a 5th Gen 4Runner.

A few months ago Taylor Expeditions expressed our interest in guiding off-road, hiking, camping, climbing, and historical / archeological tours and expeditions within the Mojave Desert to Dennis Casebier. Dennis, a historian and author of 30+ books on the subject of the Mojave Desert, is also the re-discoverer of The Mojave Road and made it possible for people to travel and learn about its rich history. Dennis began running guided tours 3 or 4 times a year back in the late 1970's and early 80's, and it is one of our goals to pick up where Dennis has left off in that respect. No one has done this kind of thing in a very long time, and that is simply because there is no one except Dennis that could do it.

When we expressed our interest to Dennis, he was very enthusiastic and agreed to help us. The first step was for us to take him over the road and he would dictate the history and stories to us and a few accompanying vehicles and he would allow us to record it and transcribe it for our exclusive use. In addition he would be coaching me on how to guide people over the road. Something that he has never done before.

Over the last 4 days we did just that.

We were accompanied by two amateur historians, Mike and Chris and the owners of The Mojave Desert Outpost campground Jerry and Neil. Riding in the 4runner was Dennis up front with my dad working the recorder in the rear. I drove.

For those unfamiliar: (From Wikipedia to save time :)) A traditional thoroughfare of desert-dwelling Native Americans, the road much later served Spanish missionaries, explorers, and foreign colonizers and settlers from the 18th to 19th centuries, and ran between watering holes across the Mojave Desert between the Colorado River and San Bernardino Mountains in Southern California.[1][2] The watering holes recur at intervals of about 60 to 70 miles.[3] The trail is 138 miles (222 km) long and usually requires 2 or 3 days to travel.

Francisco Garcés, the Spanish Franciscan missionary, traveled the trail with the expedition of Juan Bautista de Anza in 1776. José María de Zalvidea, the zealous Franciscan administrator of Mission San Gabriel also crossed the trail in 1806, reportedly converting five indigenous Mohave Native Americans near present-day Hesperia. In 1826, Jedediah Smith became the first American to travel the Mojave Road from Utah to California.

The land passed to American hands in 1848, and the trail came under the purview of the U.S. government. Army posts were established at Fort Mojave in 1859 and at Camp Cady in 1860, with smaller outposts along the trail and regular patrols. The army protected the settlers and travelers from the territorial attacks of the resident Paiute, Mojave and Chemehuevi Native Americans. This also opened the way for agricultural development in the Victor Valley area.

The eastern end of the Mojave Road begins at the edge of the Colorado River north of Needles, California and the western terminus lies beyond the Rasor Off-Highway Vehicle Area and the Afton Canyon Natural Area near the Manix Wash.


Dennis leading the per-departure meeting. With his age being what it is, this could be the last time he goes down the road. And, he did so in a 5th Gen Toyota 4Runner.
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Looking over the river to the ruins of Fort Mojave:
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It was a hot morning, and it only got hotter:
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On our way to Fort Piute:
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Ruins of Fort Piute:

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There are hundreds of petroglyphs at Fort Piute, but this is Dennis' favorite one in all the Mojave. We searched high and low for about 45 minutes to find it for him.
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Our little lunch break at the top of the Piute Mountains, and at the edge of Piute Gorge.


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Dennis putting some change into the Mojave Penny Cup. (Photo: Michael Kindig)
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Camp Rock Spring:
(Rock Spring photos by Michael Kindig
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US Army soldiers left their mark while stationed here in the late 1860's
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And of course prehistoric people and Native Americans did as well:
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My dad discussing a broken matate (Native American grinding stone) with Dennis:
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Day One Continued

Government Holes:
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Instead of camping out on the trail we headed down to our basecamp at Goffs so Dennis could sleep in a bed. That is our 60 series and our RV in the back.
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Dinner and beers with some MDHCA members at the Flywheel Cafe inside Goffs:
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Day Two

We headed out in the morning to pick up where we left off. We got a little distracted and went up to Jim Winkler's cabin.
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Hawk chicks on or way to Marl Spring
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Making our way across the smaller of the two Cima Domes (Cima Cito). Those are the Kelso Dunes in the far back:
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Dennis signing an autograph at Marl Spring:
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The Expedition in front of The Mojave Mailbox
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Dennis Casebier himself signing the guestbook at the mailbox:
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Not many people know the reason why people leave frog trinkets at the Mojave Mailbox. The tradition was started by a friend of Dennis who called him “The Mojave Road Toad”.
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Next we continued out onto Soda Dry Lake. The Mojave Road Monument there is a monument of protest to the BLM for closing the original route to Zzyzx. It is tradition to pick up a volcanic rock while coming down the Cima Dome and place it at the monument. However, because of our relationships we would be going the original route through ZZyzx, something that hasn't happened for probably 30 or so years. This would be the first time Dennis ever step foot in Zzyzx in over 30 years.

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Zzyzx, CA (Soda Springs)
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Biologist Rob Fulton of CSUF has been at the Desert Study Center for over 26 years studying the unique wildlife and fauna there at Zzyzx. He allowed us to come there on the road, and gave us a tour to compliment Dennis' historical history lesson of the area on our way there.

There is a bitter history between the Cal State University system, the BLM, and Dennis. There are a lot of people out there that would simply faint if they saw this picture of Rob and Dennis together at Zzyzx. It is a bitter sweet area to Dennis as well because this is where he met his wife.

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After that we finished the rest of the journey and stopped in Baker for dinner before continuing back to Goffs for the night.

Debriefing with Dennis over Dinner:
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Day Three to follow.
 
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Day Three

Day three, we would move our operation up to our forward basecamp at Caruthers Canyon.

Our property in Caruthers:
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We have kept our camp open to the public but it has come into discussion in the last year to close it. For some reason people find it necessary to vandalize our property (shooting trees) and leave trash. Here is an example of why we will be closing it shortly. Cans do not burn, and we have to clean up the mess every time we go out. Plus, someone stole our Christmas lights we had on the trees there.
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Party time at forward basecamp!
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We were joined by David Nichols the archeologist for the National Park Service, Mojave National Preserve and his dog Jesper. Two other archeologists also joined us; Jeff who specializes in the Pacific Rim and Pacific Islands, and Joe who specializes in the American South West. David is helping us with our future expeditions, and his wealth of knowledge of pre-historic and and native peoples will help give our guests a more complete history of the area than ever provided on the road.
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This trip had many history firsts, and unfortunately some lasts. It will go to serve us, and by proxy, the historical and off-road communities. I was very proud to be able to take Dennis over the road in my 4Runner and he was impressed by its performance in the dirt, as was I.

Hopefully we can continue his legacy and expand it in ways that Dennis couldn't. A trip of a lifetime for sure.
 
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This is awesome! I have done this trip and it is beautiful... My Father gave me his copy of The book written by Mr. Casebier when I was a teenager. It has traveled the road with me every time...

Thank You for sharing this adventure with the Man himself!!
 
This is awesome! I have done this trip and it is beautiful... My Father gave me his copy of The book written by Mr. Casebier when I was a teenager. It has traveled the road with me every time...

Thank You for sharing this adventure with the Man himself!!

Thanks Outdoorlogic for sharing that. We came across a few fellow travelers on the road and it was great seeing their faces light up when he introduced himself. Then they run to their trucks to get their books LOL. It was a real treat.

You can find more information on our first event that Dennis is helping us with here. Then from there we will begin regular historical tours after that. We are thinking about doing a "manufacture and reseller only" tour as well. If you would be interested in that send me an email via our site and I will get you more info.
 
Great post! I always love to know the history of the desert areas I travel through. There is always far more than one might guess.
 

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