Addicted Offroad Bumper Status

4x3Lander said:
Thank you both as that’s useful info to know! I was potentially considering these:

WARN 103255 VR EVO 12-S
Smittybilt X2O COMP

Will see if I do go with them or not. I don’t foresee the need to remove the grill once this is all done since I will replace the radiator too, but might be better if I mount the control box as mentioned.
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If you're taking votes I'd go for Warn over SB any day of the week. They're spendy but they're much better quality and have outstanding customer service
Fwiw I also have my box in my passenger wing, seems pretty common. I believe it technically would fit in either wing if your wiring lets you
 
Devbot said:
If you're taking votes I'd go for Warn over SB any day of the week. They're spendy but they're much better quality and have outstanding customer service
Fwiw I also have my box in my passenger wing, seems pretty common. I believe it technically would fit in either wing if your wiring lets you
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I have always been partial to Warn since I was much younger, but wanted to keep a second option open in case. I will probably go with the Warn though.

Good to know that. I will see where I can mount it!
 
I used a SB XRC8 for 10 yrs never a problem worked the many times I used it got totaled when 96Red did in 18.
Bought SB 9.5 Syn for the 01 in 18 been working fine with couple dozen pulls on it so far. Don't need it alot so I went cheaper.
With AOR Plate cutting the grille depends on what year Runner you have. Pre 99 no trimming needed, 99-02 needs it.
Swapped a 96-98 grill onto 01, 2-2 1/4" difference in the two. Just saying.
 
96RedRunner said:
I used a SB XRC8 for 10 yrs never a problem worked the many times I used it got totaled when 96Red did in 18.
Bought SB 9.5 Syn for the 01 in 18 been working fine with couple dozen pulls on it so far. Don't need it alot so I went cheaper.
With AOR Plate cutting the grille depends on what year Runner you have. Pre 99 no trimming needed, 99-02 needs it.
Swapped a 96-98 grill onto 01, 2-2 1/4" difference in the two. Just saying.
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Have had an XRC8 on our CJ for 10-20 years now, that thing will not die :AK47: What's sad is that XRC8 is infinitely better quality than my new XRC G3, but I guess that's just the way the world works. Most manufacturers see no reason or benefit to build something that'll last anymore.
What do you mean by "SB 9.5k synth" - what winch do you have now? Those are just the specs
 
4x3Lander said:
Thank you both as that’s useful info to know! I was potentially considering these:

WARN 103255 VR EVO 12-S
Smittybilt X2O COMP

Will see if I do go with them or not. I don’t foresee the need to remove the grill once this is all done since I will replace the radiator too, but might be better if I mount the control box as mentioned.
Click to expand...

I didn’t realize how many things require removing the grill, like when I did my headlight retrofits lol. FWIW warns are probably one of the best winches on the market, but you gotta ask yourself are you going to be winching all the time? Warns are a must if your winching everyday but if your only winching like 10-20 times per year you’d be fine with a SB IMO. That’s why I went with SB at least, lot of happy ppl with SB’s.
 
T4topher said:
you gotta ask yourself are you going to be winching all the time?....
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How I looked at it, how you do your rigging makes a difference on how much abuse your putting on winch.
Didn't use power cables supplied with winch welding cable is much better it all helps.
 
THE MAGICAL EMAIL HAS ARRIVED! Finally :)

Sent via FedEx starting Monday and set to arrive on Thursday.

Notified 19 weeks after purchase. Set to arrive 20 weeks after purchase.
 
T4topher said:
Stoaked for you brah! Grats.
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Thanks! Timing is coincidental in that I’m right in the middle of replacing all of my front end suspension components. Now I can remove the bumper and all that related stuff :)

Appreciate the opinion on the winch too. I don’t foresee using it a lot. Just when needed and if I’m guessing right, maybe a couple times a year.
 
[MENTION=271010]4x3Lander[/MENTION], good to hear of receiving ship notice for sure, relax aye.
Things about mounting bumper there is no way to adjust body to bumper gap as it comes, it's awkward getting it mounted without dinging paint.
Before paint do a mock up, I elongated the six holes 3/8" that hold bumper to cross member so I could achieve the correct gap, no two Runners are the same.
Thin flat washers on these 6 bolts as designed is a weak link from the git go, elongating holes making it fit your Runner makes it worse.
Washers in pic are 1-9/16" square 1/4" thick stout, for ease of install 4-5/8" long bolts with head cut off makes a guide rod.
 

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Along the same lines, be prepared to go shopping for fasteners to finish the installation. The original tie down bracket bolts are not long enough to properly engage with the added thickness of the crossmember, so I needed four 12x1.25-40mm flange head screws:

O2AXRiG.jpg


ZLjwNC7.jpg


Also, at least in my case, the 1/2"-13 screws that were supplied with the bumper (to attach the bumper to the crossmember) were all cross-threaded, so I had to get six new 1/2"-13 flange head screws:

KI6RBa6.jpg


g3KuJhQ.jpg


I had a number of other issues with the bumper (e.g. the cutouts in the bumper for the fog lights were crooked), but hopefully you won't have to deal with that.
 
96RedRunner said:
[MENTION=271010]4x3Lander[/MENTION], good to hear of receiving ship notice for sure, relax aye.
Things about mounting bumper there is no way to adjust body to bumper gap as it comes, it's awkward getting it mounted without dinging paint.
Before paint do a mock up, I elongated the six holes 3/8" that hold bumper to cross member so I could achieve the correct gap, no two Runners are the same.
Thin flat washers on these 6 bolts as designed is a weak link from the git go, elongating holes making it fit your Runner makes it worse.
Washers in pic are 1-9/16" square 1/4" thick stout, for ease of install 4-5/8" long bolts with head cut off makes a guide rod.
Click to expand...

Great advice on the mock up. When I installed my rear bumper, I was fortunate that I was able to use two FrontRunner boxes on each side of the bumper with two rolls cart things. It was perfect for the amount of times I had to line up and install the bumper. Will try that with this bumper to make it easier.

Another great idea on elongating the holes. Will definitely assist in gapping all around.

Those heavy duty square washers look perfect too. I will grab some of those. The guide rod - to line up the holes?
 
Spiker Engineering said:
Along the same lines, be prepared to go shopping for fasteners to finish the installation. The original tie down bracket bolts are not long enough to properly engage with the added thickness of the crossmember, so I needed four 12x1.25-40mm flange head screws:

O2AXRiG.jpg


ZLjwNC7.jpg


Also, at least in my case, the 1/2"-13 screws that were supplied with the bumper (to attach the bumper to the crossmember) were all cross-threaded, so I had to get six new 1/2"-13 flange head screws:

KI6RBa6.jpg


g3KuJhQ.jpg


I had a number of other issues with the bumper (e.g. the cutouts in the bumper for the fog lights were crooked), but hopefully you won't have to deal with that.
Click to expand...

I REALLY appreciate this info as well! I loathe going to Home Depot / Lowes for hardware like this because they never have enough or a large variety. I appreciate the pictures of the bolts and the info for them so that I can easily buy them. After completely removing the entire front bumper assembly today, all the hardware was too rusted or in bad shape. The only bolts I was able to keep were the ones holding the tow hook.

Assuming there is hardware included with the bumper, although seems I will need to buy what you have suggested? When you say the bolts were stripped, you got them that way or you stripped them in the process?

Sorry to hear about the cutouts with the lighting. The bumper style I ordered has no lights at all, so I won’t have those issues.

On a different note - LOVE my Spiker Engineering hood struts :)
 
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4x3Lander said:
I REALLY appreciate this info as well! I loathe going to Home Depot / Lowes for hardware like this because they never have enough or a large variety. I appreciate the pictures of the bolts and the info for them so that I can easily buy them. After completely removing the entire front bumper assembly today, all the hardware was too rusted or in bad shape. The only bolts I was able to keep were the ones holding the tow hook.

Assuming there is hardware included with the bumper, although seems I will need to buy what you have suggested? When you say the bolts were stripped, you got them that way or you stripped them in the process?

Sorry to hear about the cutouts with the lighting. The bumper style I ordered has no lights at all, so I won’t have those issues.

On a different note - LOVE my Spiker Engineering hood struts :)
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Go to Fastenal or whatever local fastener store is near you. Here in the PNW we have Tacoma Screw which is kick ass, but I'm not sure if they stretch down to NorCal. Sometimes local hardware/home improvement stores even have a better selection than Lowes and Home Depot - both are comically bad for any nut or bolt that isn't a shouldered, standard carriage bolt. Lowes almost carries nothing in metric usually
 
Devbot said:
Go to Fastenal or whatever local fastener store is near you. Here in the PNW we have Tacoma Screw which is kick ass, but I'm not sure if they stretch down to NorCal. Sometimes local hardware/home improvement stores even have a better selection than Lowes and Home Depot - both are comically bad for any nut or bolt that isn't a shouldered, standard carriage bolt. Lowes almost carries nothing in metric usually
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Having lived in the Tacoma area for about 6 years in the past, I can’t tell you how much I miss Tacoma Screw and no, there is definitely not one here in the Bay Area because if there was, I would have lived next to it :) I used Tacoma Screw a lot when I was building my 1st Gen MR2.

Agreed, as I should go to local hardware stores more often. Admittedly though, since Spiker Engineering provided the packaging specs of the bolts, found them instantly on Amazon for $18.50 for 10.
 
4x3Lander said:
Those heavy duty square washer,
The guide rod - to line up the holes?
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The square washers are used with Unistrut in electrical construction local electrical supply has them.
The long headless bolt is to hang bumper on slide it into position in a controlled manner.
I had same problem with bolt threads as Spiker mentioned, get a tap to cut good threads
AOR must like using worn out taps.
 
96RedRunner said:
The square washers are used with Unistrut in electrical construction local electrical supply has them.
The long headless bolt is to hang bumper on slide it into position in a controlled manner.
I had same problem with bolt threads as Spiker mentioned, get a tap to cut good threads
AOR must like using worn out taps.
Click to expand...

Ahhh, that’s where I have seen those types of washers. Thanks for the reminder.

OK, looks like I am going to buy replacement bolts as Spiker did. I would buy a tap, but already investing in more tools than I planned :)
 
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